Sean_Jaymo

As said before Bill, sad times. Whoever buys this will be buying 1 of the few Corrados that will actually appreciate in value given its quality.

The cost of living dictates price to a large extent. Britain being expensive, Poland being cheap...

You have a loose plug somewhere in the fuel pump assembly potentially. Take it out and have a look. Do you have any fault codes?

Well the Navy might be a bit old fashioned and odd but christ can they throw a party!

Ahh James, you see, neither of us are Squaddies, 1 x Superior RAF Aircraft Mechanical Technician and 1 x Navy (Gay)vionics Technician that will harp on about being the senior service and some dude called Nelson! haha!

You'll be happy with 288's :) Got on anymore info on Nylon coating? Not heard much about it?

Ahhh that takes me back to my time on 849 Sqn! Sideways walking MoFo giving it all this!

Haha! Those are good little cars you know, even if they are frech :) My brother has a Williams Clio with a 182 lump in it. What a scary little weapon!

Lol, I'm going to change my name. Any suggestions!?

Eh?

Did use thread lock Sean!

This weeks update. I've got the speedlines back from the refurbishment guy. Not a perfect finish but the wheels are date stamped as Feb 93 so only a few months younger than the car they're going on to. Saying that, you need to look massively closely to notice so I'm content with the results. Before After Really pleased! I've ordered some tyres from Mr Lobitos, I know a fair few cheap tyre sources, non could match him! Went for Uniroyal Rainsport 3's which seem to have good reviews on the whole on here and in many other places on the interwebz! In other news, I heard a rattle and tick on my way back from collecting the wheels. It was related to engine speed. On further inspection the idler pulley bearing has play in it and 10 points if you can see what else I found... The joys of rebuild niggles! Everything else still looks fine and tight though.

I've just ordered rainsport 3s from Mr Lobitos myself. Will report back on my findings!

Do you have a code scanner or VCDS? Have you taken the pump out of the tank to see if there is anything blocking the pickup? I'm assuming you have plenty of fuel?

Do you get 12v at the pump now? You said you were getting 3v or so earlier?

What condition is the fuel pump in then? Is it original? Is the relay latching securely? It sounds like it could be a failing pump. If you are getting 12v at the fuel pump plug when the relay is fitted and the ignition switched on then all symptoms point to a bad pump.

Depends on your engine. The fuel pump will only turn on if it senses a pressure drop. 35psi is only 2 and a bit bar. I believe the VR6 usually runs at 4 bar or around 60psi. What voltage do you get at the fuel pump plug if you bridge pin 6 and 4? Should be 12v or so. If you are not getting 12v at the fuel pump plug, you will find the pump won't run at full power and not supply full pressure.

Great colour!

If the voltage is that low, you likely have a corroded wire joint somewhere. Most likely at the pump end as that is more exposed. the other end of the power feed goes into the back of the fuesbox, Plug G1/8. Check for continuity and resistance. I'm assuming that the relay is clicking over if you are getting a voltage at the pump plug. If you have access to VCDS, do you get any Lambda faults? If you remove the relay (numbered 67 or 167) from position 12, do you get voltages from either pin 2 or 6 with the ignition in the run position? If you short pin 6 to pin 4, do you get 12v at the pump plug? Pin 3 when the Ignition is on should go to ground via the ecu.

If it's not broken, don't fix it.

For clips? I'll look into getting a 3d printer!

Ah sorry I never knew that you knew it was inside. Free info for anyone who doesn't though :)

The thermal fuse is part of the motor. You need to dismantle it to component pieces to get at it.

Oil temperatures tend to be 12-15 degrees above water temperature in normal driving, usually less than 8 degrees if on the motorway. If you're giving it some love maybe that would extend to 20-25 degrees. If your radiator fans are working correctly, the oil temperature shouldn't be much above 115c. If the water is kept to 95 or so and the oil starts to reach 120 or higher than that, you have an issue somewhere, either it is a bad temperature sensor, a bad joint on the wiring to the sensor or worse, a tired old oil cooler. Just as a heads up to anyone who has replaced the sensor and cleaned up the wire and you are still getting high temperatures, if your oil cooler is the original item, get it changed before you risk it failing and causing an engine failure. They can fail from fatigue of the metal itself, resulting in leaks or failure in the oil/water matrix internally which can lead to water getting into your oil and causing all sorts of headaches.

A few small tweaks and you're just about there!