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Everything posted by Matt@OCD
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Thanks lad, we are still doing this. The silicone supplier who made our custom OCD logo's has just gone AWOL though :( We're currently setting up a new premises too which has eaten a huge amount of time, but next year is looking like only getting bigger and better :D Cheers
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Not got an air block? Yeah can test it with it out for sure. What make stat was it? Possible you've just got a dodgy one brand new?
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Modify boost return valve to increase performance?
Matt@OCD replied to G_Power's topic in Engine Bay
It's just down to VW always strive to get power from small engines, while still giving good drivability and economy. Just what they're about really. The 1.4TSI set up is similar affair, with a supercharger the engine can turn on and off as it pleases :) off the shelf are fine, with a slight tweak of the sensor's you should have no issues at all. A RR map is obviously better, as long as you've got a mapper who knows G60's and the digifant management, that's the only issue nowadays :) -
Modify boost return valve to increase performance?
Matt@OCD replied to G_Power's topic in Engine Bay
I haven't, I know people who have, so the boost return shuts earlier. But it's a lot of faf and can quite easily make it a nightmare to drive! And unless you're throwing the ISV away there's no need as that'll just bleed any pressure over 1bar -
Modify boost return valve to increase performance?
Matt@OCD replied to G_Power's topic in Engine Bay
You will get good gains on a standard pulley with a tuned setup. And you are right to an extent with the small pulley theory but the small pulley is used to build more pressure at lower revs, ie WOT from 2000rpm, more boost will be created at this rpm all the way to 6500rpm than with a standard pulley. This is the means for the smaller pulley. The boost return is so the boost system is open as it has to be but this is also aids in some more mpg as the engine is essentially ran as an N/A until WOT :) -
Again Kyle, my apologies for letting you down! But as you've said yourself, you arranged to drop it off at 12 noon on Monday and arrived at my unit at 9am. When I rang you back I got no answer. Again I am a one man band at the minute, and as also explained very busy with re-builds right now (as well as being let down by Optibelt) which delays chargers brought in, first come first served. As you were told I was out the unit, again I've got many things on (viewing new, bigger units being the case that morning) so again my apologies I missed you but I don't feel I completely let you down by not being where you wanted me to be 3 hours earlier than I expected. But hopefully Jabba do a good job on your charger, good luck :)
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Get rid of that as fast as you can! That's an adjustable FPR and they're terrible. G60's hate them, and my experience of them on G60's is they give very odd fuelling causing all sorts of running issues! Stick to a standard 3.0bar FPR and leave it at that.
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Or from here for cheaper ;) http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/products/co-potentiometer-sensor-g60-g40.html
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Thanks, went out last week :)
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There's not Co Pot? It needs one! I wouldn't try and find anything else faulty until that's on and right. Lambda being unplugged should alter running, so possibly faulty but still, sort the Co Pot first!
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Got these back on the shelf :)
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This thread really gained some gravitas when cat pictures were posted :D
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Hi Eddy, I'm due a shipment shortly but the price has just risen :( I got told this last week just before they shipped out. They've gone up to £35 a set. Which I'm sorry to say is quite a jump. I'm looking into getting them made in the Uk to hopefully bring costs down but can't promise. I'll amend this thread. Cheers
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So, this is something I've slowly been building ideas for and wanting to get sorted for a while. Everything has been about done for G60 tuning, but while we want to keep it alive we want to keep things moving as much as we can as seen as it may have all be done, it quickly stopped in the 90's and hasn't followed with the times. This meant we wanted to offer a good quality induction kit for the G-Lader that would offer both performance increases & maximum protection for the charger so you can enjoy that iconic noise without risking the service life While doing this I realise that most owners now also want to be able to show off their engine bay with top quality products that don't just work well, they look the part in any bay. Be it performance or show. Which led me to creating something a bit different just to keep things fresh. The kit consists of a flange that bolts to the charger inlet that is a fully CNC component. The elbow is a 90' elbow hand welded to the V-band clamp that is then sealed to the charger inlet by means of a rubber gasket. The air filter is a full paper filter so will perform as good as the factory airbox and filter for stopping dust & dirt passing in to the charger while also allowing a lot more air to pass through as there's no airbox to restrict air flow. I will be looking to make a heat shield for those who want to add that little extra to keep intake temps as low as possible. These will be a little longer in production just down to the different models we're having to cater for. Right now we're just waiting on the silicone joiner for the air filter to hard pipe to be produced then we will have full kits for testing and shortly for sale afterwards. I'm estimating the full kit to come out at around £150, but we might be able to bring this down a little yet. If demand seems decent then we'll certainly be able to drop it. I'm more than welcome to thoughts on the design too :) Cheers
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http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/cylinder-block/ We can arrange engine work as we have a local engineers that is highly regarded and we use for all our own and customers work :)
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All only depends on what cooler you're running. BBM's RSR can be made to work with anything, as can the RS outlet. The Rallye u-bend is perfect for an FMIC setup while taking the least amount of room. But they all do the same thing and none will gain power over another, they're just all better than the Corrado plastic silencer box! ps. just to add the U-bend is rare but I keep brand new remoulds in stock :)
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Alex, Yeah, all G-Laders I deal with :) Cheers
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Rebuild schedules on a charger is impossible to say really. I think Jonny's guide is good a rough guide, but I tend to give each customer and individual mileage depending on scroll wear. 2 chargers, both on same size pulleys might have different levels of wear inside and it's the apex strips that are the main concern regarding mileage. The oil fed bearings are fine for years and many miles, the only ones of issue are the intermediate shaft ones which is when I'd follow the above mileage guide. But, even though this one you're looking at has low mileage 9 years is a long long time! Most oil seals won't last 9 years with good use, so when they've seen little use there's even more chance of them aging and eventually leaking if you use the car quite often. I offer a free health check service which is opening the charger, checking the internals and advising what may be needed. But with this, I'd strongly recommend a rebuild to prevent any let down when you start using the car :)
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Last I heard nothing is available! The bearings and seals are one offs for these chargers and RUF have nothing that works with the older style chargers! It's a shock to me as you'd think they'd design it to use standard bearings but apparently not. Now, I've never stripped one to see what I can find personally but you have to strip it to find part numbers and go from there. So if you can't get them then it's game over :(
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Now I know this isn't going to be for everyone on here but it might interest a few....what it certainly does it show the quality of work and care we put in to each and every car we see, be it for a full on air ride install or just a daily G60 in for a service! This is just a few of the cars we've done, please do take a look and any comments are more than welcome. Email [email protected] for all quotes and inquiries A few more pics of our installs we've done over the winter. Thanks Matt
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http://www.radiatorshop.net/products/volkswagen-corrado-29-i--vr6 Heard very good things about this places quality and prices
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It's not to do with the tensile strength with ARP, it's that they're non stretch bolts hence they don't need to be replaced. Any other head bolt you come across will be stretch. That is pretty expensive that link though - drop me an email and I'll see what price I can get them for. I keep ARP parts in but not VR6 yet
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Yeah the bypass valves are terrible! Certainly get rid of it but look as replacing the heater matrix for new. Then you've got lovely warm heaters but no worry of scolding your feet :) The low temp thermostat and fan switch is a great mod! One of the best I did on my G60, kept it at 90 or just a smidge under at all times, even in really hot summers and sat in traffic. Uprated cooling fan is a great mod too :)
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Certainly not a standard chip, can't really see who's it is as most reputable ones are marked or left blank with a tag in the map software. They can be re-written. The little 'window' is a UV spot to allow those to be 'opened' for re-mapping :)
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Why are people 'entitled' to a discount? It's not really a surprise to find that about a filter though, that's how they're all made. Probably a few companies do the same thing for the same part as VW don't buy just from one manufacturer in most cases