Matt@OCD

We've finally got round to getting all those small but very important service parts onto our webshop, all very decently priced and parts we use regularly and are confident in their quality, most being genuine or from OEM suppliers as parts are now obsolete or silly money from VW. Please feel free to take a look - http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/service-parts/ We've also made up a discount code for forum members, just enter Corrado10 when checking out for a 10% discount on service parts. Thanks Matt

Hello and welcome Robaidh, We've just got all our service parts live on the webshop today so take a look on here :) - http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/service-parts As for oil use Quantum Synta Silver, pretty cheap even from a dealership Matt

You'd have to really over heat it to do that but it's possible, especially if it's the standard gasket. Best test to do would be a pressure test while the engines at idle, this allows you to play about more with parts off etc so you can see things easier, keep using coolant too as this will stain where it's leaking from making it easier to find leaks too.

you could swap those for the normal poly ones - http://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-series/product-details/Universal+Exhaust+Mount/1549.html

It's aluminium, what set up do you have? Yes we can do anything custom no problem, like you say we obviously need the car though :) drop us an email [email protected]

No, should work all the time, just try it with the cable just off idle so it's not getting a signal from closed switch too

Are you meaning silicone joins? Like I say we're on with it, just might take a little time, it's not as easy as you'd think to copy factory bends.

Just had this knocked up yesterday to gauge any interests really. It's to replace the plastic boost pipe with the CO Pot flange (we've now got the bare flanges in stock too) on all 8v G60 engines with FMIC, or to use with conversions or FMIC fitting on Corrados with standard pipes. It fits straight in place of the factory pipe, we're looking into doing our own silicone joins too but this could be a month or so off from being done but will keep you all up to date on that. So what's your thoughts? Interested? Final price for the pipe will be £96 inc VAT, we're aware this is quite steep for what it is but with this pipe being obsolete and hard to find 2nd hand we think it's about right. The flange is for sale on it's own at £20 so you can do with as you like so the price is pretty much our cost plus a little mark up :) Thanks

Just had this knocked up yesterday to gauge any interests really. It's to replace the plastic boost pipe with the CO Pot flange (we've now got the bare flanges in stock too) on all 8v G60 engines with FMIC, or to use with conversions or FMIC fitting on Corrados with standard pipes. It fits straight in place of the factory pipe, we're looking into doing our own silicone joins too but this could be a month or so off from being done but will keep you all up to date on that. So what's your thoughts? Interested? Final price for the pipe will be £96 inc VAT, we're aware this is quite steep for what it is but with this pipe being obsolete and hard to find 2nd hand we think it's about right. The flange is for sale on it's own at £20 so you can do with as you like so the price is pretty much our cost plus a little mark up :) Thanks

No the feet are a little off, they do work though just isn't completely sturdy but not loose enough to cause issues

Did they ever do a 1.8T with external water pump? Or do you mean N/A? I didn't even think these had external water pump?

With your tests you've proved your ISV is fine but something else isn't. As said check the throttle switches, both WOT and closed, both done at engine idling. To test WOT just press the little switch and revs should increase slightly, enough to hear engine tone change, for closed just lift throttle off of idle by hand a little so revs pick up and you can then press the idle switch, revs should dip back down. Then just be sure the throttle is pressing on the switch when returning to idle, it's common for the switch to move a slight amount over the years. If these are both fine I'd look at testing the wiring from the ISV plug to the engine ECU, disconnect the ECU plug with ignition off and test the resistance (ohms) across pins 14&22 (you might have to take plug apart to find the numbers) then check continuity on ISV plug pin 1 to 14 and pin 3 to 22, I think you might have a broken wire, pin 1 should receive 12v with ignition and ECU plugged in too

If you've got a multimeter then see if the solenoid is getting 12v when cranked, this will tell you if it's the ignition switch for definite but I'd hazard a guess at it being that

Doesn't turn over at all Phil? How have you tested the starter?

surely the car having a CAT from factory won't matter? the rest of the system joins the same so I'd put good money on a KR 4 branch working fine with a 9A allowing you to de-CAT it. HotTuning are a bit iffy, people haven't had issues with them massively but a 4 branch for £200 or less isn't going to be well made, that can't be argued, just your choice if you want to try it. As said they tend to not do much RHD stuff either!

It's something we recommend checking if you've got reason to doubt it. Obviously injectors we sell are cleaned and tested for us with new o-rings and pintle caps. I'm looking to get an ultrasonic cleaner in house, just not got enough demand yet to warrant buying one

Well we've been working hard the past fortnight and have just managed to get a load more products on the site, loads more service items for both G60 & G40's and everything to do with them. We've also made contact with a couple more big European G-Lader specialists so plenty more to come soon too which I'm mega excited for, if I say G75 I hope many of you know what I mean ;)

I agree with JMC, stick to 10w40 and use an oil cooler if you're having high temp problems.

Course it does! ETKA isn't too clear on that haha You wouldn't imagine there being much difference, chassis leg widths are the same on vr6 models to all others aren't they? Ouch! Don't fancy that!

I'm in Monk Bretton, Barnsley :) Sure that can be sorted out, I'm hoping to get them over by the end of the month in time for Show & Glow so touch wood we get that sorted out

Thanks Mark, totally agree on the cast material and I'm quite confident in that, we'll obviously be using a couple on cars to demo and test, make sure nothing's bad. Cracking is a hard one to sort as even the best manifold in the world will crack with enough stick given to it, it's just making sure what we have is of a good quality for daily use and sensible builds obviously. Clearance being the other issue on vr6/R32 motors, again something I'm hopefully going to be able to test on a mates build but again, once we have them if anyone is looking to test one out then a deal can certainly be struck to do so :)

Well from customer interest and with us growing I thought it time to look into supplying turbo manifolds for various VAG engines. We're able to obtain manifolds for 1.8 & 2.0 16v, Vr6, 2.8 24v V6, R32 and of course upgraded manifolds for 1.8T's both longitudinal and transverse layouts. The 1.8T manifolds will be for K03 & K04 turbos with the rest being for T25, T3 & T4 turbos. So I'm just looking for a few opinions on is it worth us getting a few in, ie how much interest have you all got? Prices aren't set yet but I'm thinking they're going to come out at £150 for the 4 cylinder manifolds and £200 for the 6 cylinder manifolds. These obviously aren't just cheap ebay tat but aren't as much as the fancy stainless equal length manifolds are so I'm hoping they should find a good middle ground. Matt

Yeah, that's the problem with them, that's why VW moved the water pumps! The bleeder tools really are great!

Could it be to do with engine mounts? That or radiators fixings? ETKA numbers matchwith what you have but it's showing the VR one as obsolete but Classic part if you're wanting genuine?

Has it got the recall heater bypass valve? a little block added into the 2 pipes going into the bulkhead? These tend to pack up and heaters work upto around 70 then just blow cold! If it's an air lock then best way is using a vacuum machine that vacuums the coolant pipes then the pipes fill themselves with coolant from a bucket, but we don't all have one of these so the only other way is like you say, but this tends to just make older engines boil over and it takes a long time of warming engine up and cooling it down, mk2/corrado are a right pain to bleed!