Matt@OCD

any engine swap isn't cheap! just can't be done cheap without it falling out a week later

no, it's meant to count on idle/no load, but as you've found they can sometimes be stuck in 'disabled', but giving it a little rev (not high revs) or just driving along with load coming on and off you can make the detection switch between enabled and disabled, it's not guaranteed but always worth a try. I think it's channel 15 and 16 actually, cyls 1,2,3 on 15 cyls 4,5,6 on 16. If it never swaps to enabled no it'll never count any misfires! Yeah you should be able to log it with VCDS yes, it's at the bottom of the screan

no, but you'll need to source an 02J box I'd say, I'm not sure if 020 clutch and flywheel fits a 1.8t but even if it did the engine will rip it to bits!

there's no certain way of doing it no, but usually blipping throttle or taking it for a drive with MVB's reading can enable it :)

Yeah G60 flywheel and clutch is a great swap, we've got a few options listed on the site if you want to take a look - http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/clutch-flywheels/ We've also got a few different intercoolers, I know the Wagner Tuning can be fitted to Corrado's as people use them to upgrade on G60's but they're not cheap. We've got a decent universal that Darkside have ran on their mk2 GTD and that's stood up to the amount of boost they've put through it and I doubt you'll be topping that so this should do the job - http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/products/universal-2-25-front-mount-intercooler-fmic-540mm-x-140mm-x-65mm.html Only problem with universals is like you say, how they fit around the bumper! I'm assuming you've got a new gearbox too? If not I certainly wouldn't use the 16v's 020 box! I'd also look to get the newest style 02J shift tower and cable set up and fit all this in, makes it a damn site easier to set up the gears but most of all gives a great new car gear change feel! That's about it, just a big rad and a couple of slim line fans, a good wiring loom and away you go :)

the thermostat housing/plastic elbow on the bottom of the water pump too, these are prone to leaking once removed and refitted. Febi Bilstein make them and we keep them in stock - http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/products/g60-thermostat-housing-elbow.html but think you and david have covered the rest really.

Nice! I've not yet seen the wide belt kit, but it's something we're looking into ourselves too :)

:) We do drive in/drive out Martin, we don't do porting work same day though. Porting sure does make a difference, you'll need a new chip and re-tune to get the most from it. Our Stage 2 porting which opens up the exhaust port and the air channels to the intermediate shaft will see you approx 20bhp with a chip, porting is more noticed when engine work is matched to it, bigger cam etc this in when the extra air really does it justice :) I know I'm a bit of a trek for you like and I'll say I'm worth it obviously lol but I'd prefer to let others tell you that :)

Yeah sounds like it just needs some loving fella! A good service will be a good start, probably end up with rebuilding most of the engine though just it's all fresh again. Standard tune no they're not mega quick, mine was a little quicker than an ST170 focus for a base which I thinks about fair for a good running standard G60. Supercharger will have a 12mm belt if been rebuilt, I do servicing on them as well as any other general parts for them :)

I'd certainly say get the fuel out and fresh in with a new fuel filter for sure. I'd do a full service too and as above, remove throttle valve, clean it out and reset it's basic settings if the conversion has OEM management and diagnostics hopefully

Ideally you should do hot and cold compression tests but cold will suffice, it's more about the cylinder differences than them all being low :) As said hold throttle fully open when doing it. Another test is to wet the bores with oil after doing a first test too, this will show up knackered rings

Yep, they only differ to the 6 cylinder engines :)

They do work, we've just got in some VR6 turbo manifolds, they're designed to work with all VR engines, 2.8&2.9 12v, 24v and the 3.2. We've got both twin and single turbo, we're just on with checking them over and looking for a test bed for them :)

Couldn't agree more! We've not brought this out to break records just because I've had people asking, I've looked about done my research and come back with something that's going to be future proof and has plenty of upgrade options and also covers the the VR engines unlike some other kits or kits that seem confusing to establish exactly what is needed! We are looking into turbo kits too but until we've got those nailed down we won't be saying anymore ;) Remember we are a G60/G40 specialists so this is and always will be our main aim! I'd just want to be able to offer people something different if they ask :)

We're in Monk Bretton, Bromcliffe Park, just about opposite the Ardargh Glass factory

Well we can't compare to second hand! The Rotrex kit from JBS is quoted as approximately £5,500 for 350bhp, the kit we're offering for same power would be £5,750 but a certain price. It isn't something we've designed in house so the price is aimed around this. As for power, again it's not something we've done in house, we're going on our suppliers figures, we'd love to see if some playing can be done to squeeze more out :)

As said yes they're completely sealed and self lubricated, the Stage 1 kit is a jump of 50bhp on the Corrado engine, the Golf engine should reach similar power a bigger power jump, not 40bhp, as this is running very low boost (0.4bar), Stage 2 gives you 100bhp which is similar to what the ZF Engineering kits ran. These aren't ZF Engineering chargers though, they are a similar compressor design but driven by belt not gears so there's no irritating rattle on idle. The plenum section is the charge cooler used in the Stage 3 kit :) Yes it's centrifugal so power will keep climbing with revs like a G-Lader does

Supercharger? Got a V6 not a G40 or G60? Well we're hugely proud to be able to offer the RUF Supercharger kits for VW's great VR6 and R32 powerplants!!! The Stage 1 VR6 kit comes in at £3,380 for a simple bolt on, drive off kit pushing the engine up to 240BHP! The Stage 1 MkV R32 kit adds 55BHP to the stock engine, this kit comes in at £5,350. We can offer kits for the MkIV V5, 2.8 V6, R32 & Audi TT/A3 3.2V6 engines as well, all kits range from Stage 1-3 with varying levels of BHP increases. Any questions or queries then fire away.

Look forward to it Sanky! Cheers Jim, there's plenty more to come too! As well as parts for VR6 :D

Ah yes!!! I've got it sat next to my desk but couldn't remember who had PM'd me about it!!! :D Knew I'd find out one way or the other! Where did I PM you about it? The pipe is fine :) Right complete guide is - No engine breathing back into intake, Start engine and idle for 1 min, Remove blue coolant temp sensor plug and give 3 bursts of throttle over 3000rpm then allow to idle, Now adjust idle and CO content, Idle = 800rpm + or - 50rpm, CO = 0.5% + or - 0.4%, Re-attach temp sensor plug and give 3 bursts of throttle over 3000rpm. Now if CO content deviates from above value the Lambda probe or control is at fault. To test Lambda probe - Idle engine once up to temp, Note CO value, Remove FPR vac pipe from inlet and block inlet, CO should increase then drop back to previous value, If it doesn't then disconnect Lambda probe plug, Connect a wire into the engine loom side plug signal wire (pin4) and alternately connect this to earth then positive, The CO content must increase/decrease. If it changes then Lambda probe is at fault. If it doesn't change then check the wiring to ECU, if this is ok then fault lies in the ECU.

No worries, CO is as I said for all G60's, this is from VW workshop manuals :) You need to disconnect the breather pipe from the rocker cover and let the boost return pipe open to atmosphere, the breather effects CO levels. Idle screw effects it as your either letting more or less air in without changing fuelling, more air = lean, less air = rich :) I'll have a look tomorrow as once rocker breather is re-connected if it rises a certain amount it means lambda is faulty

Mixture should be 0.5% + or - 0.4%, so anything between 0-1% you'll be fine, idle wants to be a little lower, 850rpm approx but I find some like to idle a little higher so I wouldn't stress at 900rpm. I think you may need to look at a new lambda probe as a possible cause to rich running too. As for the chip, you can tell as it should have SNS marker penned on the top of it, it might be faded but it'll be there!

Sanky, Yep, it's all included :) For the full kit including deleting the factory oil cooler it will be £340, this will include new oil filter and topping up oil and coolant lost doing the swap. Thanks Matt

Finally got things sorted out with this, taken longer than I would of liked! We all know how hot our G60's run and this is one of my first recommended modifications I advise people, on stock engines or lightly tuned it's the place to start personally. Kit consists of the cooler, we have either 10 Row or 13 Row, 4x push fittings, 1 metre oil hose, universal fitting kit & Mocal thermostatic plate. http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/products/g60-g40-oil-cooler-kit.html We've also got available the factory oil/water cooler deletion coolant pipes, this is something else we recommend, it prevents any chances of oil and water mixing and stops the oil being warmed by the coolant temp, it brings both down and helps massively on tuned engines and in the summer months, this keeps engine health up and prolongs the life of the bearings in the supercharger. People also find if the oil/water cooler is kept the factory oil filter can catch on the cross member, one solution people have done is using a shorter oil filter but this isn't a great idea as it reduces oil flow on start up http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/products/g60-oil-cooler-deletion-coolant-pipes.html To go with both the above is the shorter thread for the oil filter as the one with the oil cooler is too long for just the sandwich plate http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/products/oil-filter-short-threaded-union.html Matt

As above, you won't need a vernier pulley just sounds like you've got something a little wrong