Matt@OCD

14Psi is a good strong pressure. Doesn't matter on the charger, just the pulley size will alter this. But if ISV is installed with a standard/Jabba map it should never go over 14psi. I think if you use the vac pipe to dash this comes out of the throttle before the inlet side, ie no vacuum until throttle opens a little. I always use the other nipple from rear of throttle as most people delete carbon canister anyway. And I never personally bothered with gauges with vacuum on them :) But yours does sound fine

No it was more down to the fact that making one as a one off for yourself will cost a lot more, fair enough having access to raw material and machines but not everyone has that. I'm sure in the hours it takes out of your life doing so you could probably earn enough to just buy one!

5.5 is standard, they were also opposites for direction of travel. But were made exclusively for VW! You won't find a 6 deep seal either, 7 is the norm. Especially in viton, sizes are limited. But we use 7's and they don't leak. Just use some loctite to seal them well. Make sure you get viton!

I'd quite like to know how many hours and cost of materials and postage is once you've actually made one :)

I've managed to bring back the obsolete and hard to get hold of double stud bolts for the water pump and charger bracket on G60 engines. Brand new in stainless steel, will be £35 a set. smile.png http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/products/water-pump-g-lader-bracket-bolts-g60.html

I've managed to bring back the obsolete and hard to get hold of double stud bolts for the water pump and charger bracket on G60 engines. Brand new in stainless steel, will be £20 a set. smile.png http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/products/water-pump-g-lader-bracket-bolts-g60.html

Time for a overhaul of your G60's motor? We've now got your back covered and are stocking gasket sets, bearings, ARP bolts, PEC piston & rod kits and just about all you could need :) If we haven't got it online or you just need an individual gasket give me a shout with part numbers and I'll see what we can get :) Cheers http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/cylinder-block/

Robin, Good luck getting that torrington bearing! ;) I've got all the parts in stock for a rebuild though so check the site out http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/g-lader-rebuild-parts/ The G60 displacer bearing isn't cheap, but that's to do with how hard it is to get hold of :) We keep the correct apex strips in, they fit correctly unlike all others and are most of all full of PTFE. We've also got the correct Kluber grease in, most other places use the wrong spec grease as well I've found. I'm just waiting on some little pots so I can ship it out. It is to be applied ONLY to the oil seal faces and apex strips, NOT to the scroll faces!

The DX hex bolt (6 sides) is non stretch. The new PG double hex bolt is still stretch but an improved version so fine to use. VW still sell a lot cheaper than ECS or we can supply for you

Those holes are simply drain holes when the bottle is too full. But a pressurised system would cause this. If it's boiling over with the cap off just off it's own accord then it's likely the gasket has gone. A certain way to check is the 'sniffer test', most garages will have one. But it does sound like it has a few issues! An engine overhaul can be done for less than you expect really but is the easiest way to get all those lost horses back :D

We only ever use the grey strips if displacers have some wear to them beyond normal use. But the ones we get come too long (not ideal) but most I have seen recently from others are too short, by around 5-6mm overall, which is terrible. This when they can pop out and chew your charger up! Displacers never survive a jumped apex strip. The beige apex strips are the OEM ones used by VW from '92 onwards when they had the G-Lader spot on. They contain huge levels of PTFE so don't require extra lubrication and will never wear your displacer :)

Elring are top quality, we use them for our gasket sets and standard head bolts :)

Thanks Riley. There's a rebuild guide on Dubforce forum but some of the advice the person uses is wrong - http://www.dubforce.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=21875 As for the parts we keep a full kit in - http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/products/supercharger-re-build-kit-g60-g40.html This is using the correct apex strips (Jabba don't) and new polyamide bearing cages on the casing bearings (we've done a lot of research into the best bearings to use :) It is the best kit on sale right now for sure! As for balancing Riley is correct, there's no need to balance them unless they're damaged or ported. As for having it rebuilt for you, we only charge £270 plus carriage to forum members for a basic rebuild :)

You must of had the G60 pistons machined, they do clatter the valves as they don't have cut outs. That's why no one uses them! S2 rods are the same as KR if my memory serves me correct, 144mm

It's ok saying all G60's have high miles so a 1.8T looks better, but you'll struggle to find a 1.8T under 100k now, and most of them have been thrashed as they're a cheap GTI. Whatever engine conversion you're doing, you want to cost in having an engineers look it over and a recondition. Just so you know once it's running you won't have silly little issues that are now a pain to sort out!

Only ever seen slimlines fitted to them, I guess you could refit the fan cowel if you get the rad to same dimensions. That rad looks upside down for a G60 though, the return bleed would be at the bottom and the fan switch will be up at the top near the charger. You need the fan switch at the bottom :)

No problems. I'd say to get the thermostat elbow as well if it's a few years old as they're a complete pain to get them to reseal after swapping the 'stat! ;)

Agree'd, sounds like a thermostat problem, we've got the low temp and standard on the site & ready to ship - http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/management-sensors/ Even with a low temp in it should still show close to 90', I ran mine with low temp stat and rad fan switch and it sat at 90' constantly, never ever went over :) As for the oil temp, it probably is the cooler. The sensor is sat on the filter housing so when you're tramming along and the oil cooler is open the sensor has freshly cooled oil flowing right past it which shows a slightly incorrect value, and this is why it rises so much in traffic. I ran a VDO oil temp and pressure gauge and oil temp again sat at 90', it would rise if it was summer and sat in traffic for ages but never much. You may find swapping the sensors round on the oil filter housing may change the MFA temp reading :) As long as oil isn't going well over 110' then I wouldn't worry

Just sorted a few new bits to the site G40 rebuild sets, I can get the same for G60's and will have them added shortly Head set - http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/products/cylinder-head-gasket-set-g40.html Bottom end set - http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/products/bottom-end-gasket-set-g40.html Head bolts - http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/products/cylinder-head-bolts-g60-g40.html All from Elring so top quality, they're not commonly ordered so may take a couple of days to get in stock as my engineers had a bit of hassle getting the bottom end set. Also, from Rotelle Racing Ribbed belt tensioner - http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/products/g60-ribbed-belt-tensioner.html Idle screw - http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/products/g60-idle-set-screw.html Also got something very interesting coming in a couple of weeks, nothing amazing but something that a lot of people might be very relieved to see available again :) Cheers Matt

Ouch! Get your injector loom checked out and refurb the injectors. Don't do it again ;)

As above, I'd be tempted to take the pipes off completely and take them to a local Pirtek (or similar) shop and get them to make crimp sealed, you know you'll never have any issues then at all :)

Ouch! Oil forced up the return? No wonder it blew oil everywhere! Hopefully it isn't too bad

The RS one isn't the same. It's the Air-Con outlet, yes it's much better than the factory plastic box but it isn't the quality of the BBM RSR kit. Nor does it come with the same parts. But my post was defending that our price isn't over priced for the BBM RSR :) The ebay one is the first version as well, the new one we sell has even better improved flowing qualities

Lemforder are the OE VW maker so quality is bang on, usually VW parts with the badge rubbed out! Or Melye are coming big with old dub parts, their quality is bang on too

AS Kevin says, a 1.8T is a mega engine if built right. But you'll spend a lot more getting it there! You might as well built a 16vT then at least it's still period and a little bit different, these can do mad power with ease! As for Jabbasport just have a read round of recent reviews ;)