maff

Yes we have! I can get some pics if you want a look?

This is the best pic I have as couldn't get it with the poxy phone flash, but it was the same as the vr6oc guide pic Same as this I was expecting the intermediate shaft to be out but luckily it wasn't, so all we had to do was get the cams cock on with the locking tools, pulls hard now so all good, that's a weight off!

So.. Sorted the misfire, got the car timed up properly which has sorted the lack of power at 5000rpm, fitted the ap coilovers and waiting for them to settle before fine tuning he height, fitted stainless tank straps, got the bmc coming, next is leather interior and loom then dent Devils for a few dings and she'll be presentable:-) Coilovers fitted, sorry about the mud spots.. Mate has a unit downs farm so it gets dirty Tank straps fitted

Oh and after going through all this and having a look at vr6 engine under the bench which is goosed, the intermediate shaft is free to spin which drives the oil pump so even if the timing marks were out on the intermediate shaft surely it doesn't matter if it doesn't line up?

Cheers Sean, still got to fit the leather and heated loom, then get dent devil bloke to sort a few small bits, there was a pipe off on the brake circuit which made the 288 brakes horrendous which is sorted but new pads are needed so I'll order those in the new year, haven't even driven it yet as I was a passenger on the test run

All fixed! Removed everything to expose cams and top chains, then checked the intermediate shaft (which luckily lined up) while the bottoms crank pulley was on tdc. Then slackened off cam bolts to lift cams and turn them with the chain still attached untill we could slot the tool in. Retorque camshaft to correct spec refit guide tensioner bolt and reassemble. Fired it up and sounded spot on, then took it for a test run, (waiting for the oil to get to temp) and then try WOT, which concluded there was no tailing off of power above 5000rpm:-) engine came on strong at 4500 and pulled hard to 6000rpm as I remembered how they should do. Thanks for the help, so glad we got it sorted Quick pic of the car

I think the reason why it's important for intermediate shaft to be timed is because it has different size cogs on inside and outside for crank and cams

This is my mates take on it who is the expert, I'm just helping.. The way I see it,bottom pully goes to inter pully,then inter to the top,if the bottom crank pully mark is lined up then that is top dead centre,remove cam bolts,remove chain and sprockets move cams till They lock in the plate,refit sprockets and chain,the inter sprocket may be out but the timing will still be correct,it only turns the oil pump,it could be that it's just the top that's out too and the bottom pully and intershaft may be correct to start with

Ah that's good news harrier! I can't believe how torquey the engine is low down if the timing is incorrect? It's the like the top and bottom end have swap power characteristics? That's the thing I used to love about my old vr's they needed driving g hard to enjoy them, a lot like the m3 I've just sold, but as it is now it feels like a turbo diesel/-)

Expensive mistake if we ignore the intermediate shaft then?

Update, we've just checked the camshafts and they do not line up.. so can we take off the top chain cover release the tension bolt for the guide, undo the camshaft sprockets to line up the camshafts to fit the tool with the bottom pulley at bottom lined up? Or do we have to align the intermediate sprocket as well? Hoping some experts can help with this:-) my mate has his own garage and has built and timed his own vr6 mk1 but he's unsure whether we can re time the engine with out having to remove the gearbox?

Trying to get to the bottom of the lack of power over 5000rpm in my vr6, replaced the leads, maf, checked coil pack but I suspect the timing is not quite right, cars drives fine with loads of low down torque but feels noisy and breathless at high rpm. We have the crank pulley lined up with the line on the block to the notch on the pulley, so if we take the rocker cover off to check the camshafts we should be able to slot the timing plate into the end of the slots in the camshafts which are horizontal, does this mean everything's timed up correctly? Don't really want to take the gearbox out but if we have to we will! Gonna be tackling this tomorrow morning:-)

Thanks for that mate, I've pm'd you:-)

Thanks, I had my pal send me the pic as it's not in my hands at the mo but I'll have a good look at it tomorrow, lol he said he cleaned out the connectors:-/

And this is the connector on the maf

Here's what I have on the car at the moment.. Bosch exchange is written on the label

Yes, that would be great! PM me how much your after for it as I've just been down to my mates and I have a misfire on the corrado now, mates tried his leads which improves things but still has the power tailing off at over 5000rpm so would like to try a different maf:-)

Where does everyone get there maf sensors from on here these days? Seen some on eBay for 40-£60 but a bit dubious. Be great if someone could point me in the right direction? Cheers

Ah that's good cause I have no service book and evidence of only one oil change at 165,000;] Still, I've since bought a service book and will document all I'm doing to it. It's had a private plate on it in the past so must of had some love, so shame the service books gone. I've gone a bit anal on the history of cars lately, not that I'm selling this one but it always helps

Ps, my smilies are not working.. Tried to put a cool at the end of a sentence and it's at the top of the message? I'm on an iPad so maybe that's something to do with it?

Cheers mate, I'll admit my best mate has his own garage with ramps etc so I'm just hindering, i mean helping him with it:-) could probably manage by myself but two kids = no time so easier for me to pay someone, at mates rates mind you:-O Looking forward to getting the heated leather in there and taking her out for a spin!

Got the engine bay back together with the six branch and now the car has a misfire? So it's either leads, replaced the plugs for oem ngk's or the coil pack. Mate has a mk1 golf vr6 on nitrous so he's gonna try his coil pack on it and also leads and go from there, wondering if the maf is ok though? Was very smooth before dismantling to do the oil leak with just the top end struggling for power. Also helped with the ap coilovers fitting, pretty simple really but not driven it yet. Might wait untill all the leathers in and plastic stereo surrounds all fitted for the full effect. Should be tidy when it's all finished with the wing sprayed as well now

Er.. It was a waterfall of oil! Religiously checked the oil level though when I used the car which was not a lot, can't wait to get it back on the road with the coilovers fitted:-)

Bit of an update, We've got the inlet manifold off and found out the cause of the oil leak, there were supposed to be ten bolts holding the timing chain cover on and someone must of lost a few when fitting the new chains and mk4 tensioner as there were only two! No wonder the car was bleeding oil! Next up is reassemble, fit the branch manifold, oil and filter change, remove carbon canister pipe work as there isn't one there, tidy up the wiring, fit a bmc air filter. Then fit the ap coilovers, stainless fuel tank brackets, heated leather interior, interior dash surround which has snapped by someone trying to rip a stereo out probably? Got the vr6 grill badge and fitted also.. Oh nearly forget, removed the old plugs which look shot and will be replacing with oem plugs as at 5500rpm on WOT the engine slows and gets a bit louder, almost like its leaning out on the mixture, hopefully the plugs will sort it but other thoughts are maf? Blue temp sender? Also found out the airbox has been drilled, while its loud I'm not a fan so the bmc will be going on.. I'll update when she's running:-) Cheers

I did a search and it had a question mark by it? I'll get in touch, thanks