pumbaa

Anyone??

The loom that came with the unit is an ISO lead, as are the 2 coming from the car. ISO just means the standard fitting. (someone correct me if im wrong). Have you tried to see if it works with the ignition on? Does the loom that came with the stereo have a red and yellow wire that are interchangeable somewhere along their lengths? If so try swapping them or connecting them both to the same feed coming from the car. One is a constant live and the other a switched live that comes from the ignition barrel. Both need to be live for the stereo to work. Bit confusing but hope it helps. P.S. In some older cars they are the opposite way around. Kunaal

Ok, i understand that was a nightmare to understand. So heres a simpler question; Does anyone know what the red and black wire that runs directly from the actuator in the door to the car do? And should it always carry a +ve current? Any help is very much appreciated. Or does anyone know someone who could help me with this little problem without offering to re-fit my entire alarm and locking system? Thank you, Kunaal

Hope someone can help me! Im trying to get my autowatch alarm to perform a total closure. Ive read the threads on how to do this (extended +ve current to the red/yellow wire in the drivers door) But when i looked at the current fitting the guy who fitted it hasnt even used the red/yellow wire to lock or red/black wire to unlock. Instead he's cut another red/black wire in the drivers door (actually black with red stripe) and rigged a set of relays to send and alternative +ve or -ve current down this wire to lock and unlock the doors. sending an extended current down this wire does not affect the windows. The other end of this wire he's cut is not used and continues to runs into the door, i would have thought this wire would have no charge but it has a constant +ve. I would have re- connected these two ends (the black wire with red stripe) and then wired the lock/unlock mechanism how it should be done (red/yellow wire and red/black wire) but im worried about whether the constant +ve is supposed to be so. Really hope someone can help, sorry if the description is a little confusing. I can try and explain it better if needed. Thank you Kunaal

Thanks for the tip, Im based in Enfield, North London. but am willing to travel a little bit. Kunaal

I dont have an arch rolling tool and theyre about £300 arent they? So i think it'll be cheaper to get it done by a company, unless you would be ever so kind as to let me use yours Mr Beige? :D Ive found a company called archenemy who cover north london and hertfordshire and will do all 4 for £105 but will do discounts for 2 or more cars so i could try and find someone else on the forum who needs their arches rolled and try and sort a deal. Any takers???? Thanks again, Kunaal

Thanks for your help, Im gonna try and get all the arches rolled, anyone know of a cheap and decent place to get that done around north london? Kunaal

Does anyone know if i can put 9j Borbet A's all round on a 2.0L 16v which i believe to be the later style body (as all 2.0L 16v are?) without any arch work? I've been searching through the archives and cant find a definitive answer. Also, the wheels i have are ET15, i thought they had to be around 35 to fit properly? Thanks in advance. Kunaal P.S. Does anyonw know the cheapest place to get them refurbed near north london, theyre not badly damaged, just a few scrapes and some laquer coming off, i think i want to get the dishes diamond cut and laquered and possibly the centres painted to match the car (I can supply the paint). Also, My dad runs a garage and used to specialise in dubs, he doesnt do any modifying or tuning but does accident repair, services, and fault diagnostics. His website is http://www.4point2motors.co.uk i could try and arrange a forum discount if people are interested? (probably the wrong place to write this.......sorry mods)