pumbaa

Ok, changed the lambda.... no joy. Gonna cry.

Landscape Architect. Specialising in the hospitality and leisure industry, hotels, spas and golf courses etc..(that i can never afford to visit!)

pmsl

Having very similar problems to you, i took apart and changed everything! No luck. Waiting on a new lambda now. I have a fully functioning 9a metering head spare if you want but like you i have played with the mixture screw. Can only suggest checking timing, leads, dizzy and arm, throttle body switches/potentiometer and metering head. Try unplugging things like the plugs on the throttle body or lambda or metering head to see if is any difference. Hope this helps Kunaal

Right, update on my blood sucking valver! Checked all pipes and hoses - no leaks checked all switches and wiring - no problems changed injectors back - no difference checked timing - spot on changed metering head for a known working one with tamper seal in place (thanks aide!!) - no change unplugged the 2 wires going to the metering head so the ecu basically runs like a KR - engine doesn't die completely like before when revved but doesn't run smoothly. This tells me its something to do with the feedback loop? - am i right? Plugged it into a diagnostics machine - tells me there is a fault with the idle actuator - but the car idles fine, its just coming off idle. so i cleared the code and re-scanned - no problems, code does not re-appear. I left the car running with machine attached, revved it a bit (by first slowly pulling throttle till the revs built up above 2000) set the machine to scan again and it came up with an o2 sensor fault! It has a genuine bosh lambda but i will try to replace this on monday. Does anyone know if its ok to extend the wires of the lambda for this car? After putting in the 4-branch i had to extend the wires to reach a new lambda hole further down the exhaust (there is no cat btw) is this ok to do? Hope the new lambda fixes the car - will let you know. Thanks

Hey hey, I'm a valver owner and i've driven my car to Norwich and back to London every weekend for 2 years now, driven it to Scotland, Wales, countless times around the M25 and she has never missed a beat....... until i decided to re-build a p&p'd head for her and put lots of other new performance gubbins under the bonnet. Now she's not so happy with me and doesn't want to leave the garage, but i still love her!

Does anyone know exactly what i should see if i unplug the wiring going to the throttle body? Kunaal

Going to try putting the original injectors back and see if there is any difference. The metering head was kept in the car boot for 3 weeks while the engine work was done. The plate moves smoothly with constant resistance when lifted. Will try a spray test after I've done a thorough check of all throttle body wires. I know i shouldn't have touched the mixture but i was getting desperate! I figured it may have needed to be tweaked since the engine will be flowing more air so i gave it a try :( Anyone have a spare metering head that hasn't been tampered with and is in guaranteed perfect working order if all else fails? Cheers for all the suggestions, Kunaal

2 vacuum pipes connected, check. Gonna give the throttle body wiring a check. Only way to test i can think of is to remove it from the car and send a current down one pin and see if it returns through another, then move throttle and see if it disappears and re-appears at the other pin when at full throttle. If you get what i mean?

The car was running fine before all the mods. On the old throttle body there are 2 switches, for idle and full throttle. Both click in and out. will give them a clean though anyway with fingers crossed!The ported throttle body has what seems like a potentiometer instead. Does this make any difference? The TB with the potentiometer clicks on/off idle but not full throttle. Is this normal? Have also checked and re-checked timing but not fuel pressure. Fuel supply was fine before and once i get it above 2000 revs it runs fine so i wouldnt expect it to be fuel pressure related, or am i missing something? Im thinking it might be metering head or related but i dont want to go buying a new one without making sure. Thanks for your help guys, Kunaal

My valver is literally sucking the blood from my very veins! I've fitted a p&p'd head, inlet and throttle body, a 4-branch, abf cams, dizzy, isv, injectors, k&n and rohr pipe. I've managed to get the car to start and idle. But when ever I try to rev it, the revs drop and takes ages to pick up if not die altogether. If I pull the throttle very gently the revs will gradually grow and when above say, 2000 it revs fine. The problem is just coming off idle. Now I've tried putting back the old isv, dizzy, air filter, and throttle body one by one but to no avail. Putting the old throttle body back seems to make some difference but the problem is still there. The car isn't really drivable and is taking up space at my dads garage. I've checked for air leaks and found none. I've even done the bad thing and adjusted the mixture but still no improvement. Does anyone have any suggestions or know someone near north London that might be able to help and won't rape my wallet? Any help is much appreciated as I'm at my witts end! Thanks, Kunaal

Can someone confirm all 16v and vr6 corrado's came with traction control? Didn't know that.

I have bought one of his heads, haven't yet fitted it as i have a few things to do but just by looking at it he's done a really good job, port matched, widened inlets and exhausts, inlet throats widened (but not too much!), smooth angle from inlet to chamber, back cut valves and a flow graph to prove the job. And he's a good bloke, helped me out with a few things when i went down to collect the head. He knows his stuff and has a mean rocco running carbs. I really wouldn't hesitate about buying a head from him. Will hopefully get all my engine work done in time for bug jam so will let you know rr results. Kunaal

In all honesty a rohr pipe will do sweet f.a. You might see a few horses with the TB (you may notice some improvement at the top end) but not much without head work. You should almost definitely see a change in throttle response. Can't really say much more than that, power gains will be quite small but as i said before, every little helps! :grin:

White wheels on a blue car = 8) Wanting to powder coat my borbet a's white but cant justify the cost at the moment.

A big bore throttle body will work on its own but you will see little if any gain unless its supported with other breathing mods. But...... every little helps. I'm soon to be fitting a flowed head, flowed manifold, flowed throttle body, rohr pipe, modified airbox, 4-branch, 2 1/2" exhaust. Ok, so its to a 4 banger but the principle is the same. I wouldn't expect to see much of a gain with the flowed manifold and throttle body alone but with the flowed head im working on the principle that the head will be able to draw more air, so a flowed throttle body/manifold will make it easier and hopefully will help squeeze a few extra ponies out of her. Hope this helps

Ok, im there. Thanks for your help btw davidwort. I might try taking some pics and writing a simple guide for the wiki when i finish. Hopefully final question: What are the pro's and con's of removing the wedge from a 9a throttle body? I know coming off idle will be a bit jerky, but will it be that bad? And i guess removing it will help flow, especially at mid revs - full throttle. If i do remove it will it not leave 2 screw holes? Thanks, Kunaal

Anyone got any logical tips on how to wrap a 4-1? I'm wanting to avoid having a bulky mass of cloth where all 4 pipes join as clearance will be tight anyway, or so i've been told. Thanks, Kunaal

Ok, managed to get another 9a throttle body and p&p it. (leaving the 2 wedges cut into the walls!!!) I've smoothed the little ridges found just before you reach the butterfly plates, polished the walls and bell mouthed the other side. Is there anything else i should be doing to make it flow better? I've heard of people making the butterfly plates thinner and grinding down the screws that hold them in place but surely that'll make it easier of the screws to come loose and get sucked into the head? :pale:

Anyone know the best setup for a 2.0l valver? I have 2 sets of KR cams, 2 Sets of ABF cams and 1 9A set. I know about the modded KR exhaust cam setup but has anyone tried using a modded ABF exhaust as an inlet with a KR or ABF exhaust? And how do i go about making a new timing mark to get the cam to cam timing right? Thanks in advance, Kunaal

Broke down in a tesco petrol station (dead battery) was pushing it to the roadside with the Mrs looking at me laughing, a fella drove past in a 3 series and offered to buy it even though i was pushing it! Well chuffed......... wiped the smile straight off the Mrs face! (she gets jealous)

Ahhh... i didn't realise that. Oops! I have a ported KR throttle body but it has a wide open switch and the 9a throttle body i ruined has what looks like a throttle position sensor switch.... will post pics when i finally get round it taking them. Will the KR one work fine, or should i ideally use the 9a one? Thanks, Kunaal

Does anyone know if these are any good? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-GOLF-GTi-CORRA ... 563ae2b5b4 or http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-GOLF-GTi-CORRA ... _663wt_732 I'm looking to change all head gaskets and thought steel ones were the best way to go. Any thoughts? Thanks, Kunaal

Anyone have any photo examples of this done? I've managed to flow a KR throttle body quite easily but am having difficulty with the 9a. I've tried and failed due to the 2 wedges cut into the side of the small butterfly cone. Will post pics of my disaster attempt later. Thanks, Kunaal

None of them are for the 9a. I bought the second one from ebay which is the same as the blue one, only silver, and it doesnt fit because both ends are circular whereas the pipe it is replacing has one circular end and one oval end. Saying that, i have heard of some people 'making' them fit, it shouldn't be too hard a job. Just bend the pipe a bit and stretch the rubber a bit! Hope this helps. Kunaal