G-Lad

it has only happened a couple of times on cold startup, but it usually happens once the oil temp is high (sometimes at 110, almost guaranteed to stall at 120+). I understand that if happening when warm, the assumption is usually that its the coolant sensor at fault, leading to over fuelling. However if over fueling it shouldn't / wouldn't restart straight away, which mines does. Any thoughts? is it possible to pop the damper pot apart and clean the innards? I had it off at the weekend but was cautious about forcing it open for fear of cracking the top with the pipework.. It was really filthy inside the pipes, so I'm concerned about what's floating around inside the mesh! I'm told it'll need re-setting up - is that only if removed for cleaning? Cleaning in situ is ok, yes?

Thanks mic! I'm pretty sure my blue coolant temp sensor was swapped when the thermostat and housing was done approx 2k miles ago. Got new HT leads recently also. Excuse the newbie question, but can you confirm: I'm assuming based on the name, that the MAF (mass air flow) is the widget with the fins inside the air intake pipe, with a wide connector on the outside? When i disconnect with the engine running, it dies almost immediately, suggesting this device is working normally during idle, with the engine dying when it gets disconnected (cutting fuel as no air intake is detected?).. Also, weirdly, the whole problem seemed to have disappeared this weekend, that is until I razzed down the M1 and got the oil up to 120 degrees, after which it stalled once in a traffic jam but immediately restarted and stayed ok for the rest of the day (Northants back to Nottm). It definately seems to only happen when the engine is up to 120 degrees oil temp or beyond, and always restarts straight way (albeit in a puff of unburnt fuel - 0r atleast I hope that's what the smoke is!!). I think my real issue is that the engine runs too hot (110-120 deg at a 70mph cruise in 5th, with recent autobahn speeds getting me to 120 or even 130 if really pushing it). Surely this can't be normal? Coolant very rarely gets over 80 and never over 90 deg since the thermostat, housing, sensors and pipework were totally replaced in March. NB: I'm pretty sure I've burnt my way through 2l of Synta silver 10w 40 in the last 1740 miles. Cheers Chris

Nice one, thanks :) Looks like I might be going to C&R then after all! Any more suggestions of basic DIY things I can check / swap / clean?

Hey all My VR has just developed a really weak idle, that now invariably just drops and stalls when I pull up to a junction. Sometimes it puts up a bit of a fight and the revs from fluctuate from sub 500 to 1000rpm, kind of feathering up an down a few times, but more often than not it's just dropping off the dial and leaving me standing. :gag: I'm wondering if my recent foolish near-emptying of the fuel tank has stired up some debris, and a fuel line is partially blocked or something. I know it's still got the original inline filter on the rear, which needs replacing and fitting with proper jubilee clips anyway.. It very much reminds me of my Mk2 valver that was refusing to idle, which was cured by a new Idle Stabilisation Valve (cleaning in petrol made no difference - about £110 from GSF iirc, 2 years or so ago). It also kind of feels like my old Renault 5, when it had a blocked carb, again from running the tank dry (back in skint student days). So apart from the fuel filter down by the rear beam, and the ISV, what else should I be checking, please? I could do without visiting Mr Cresswell again if at all possible - I want to get some new tyres on her soon ;) NB: I shoved in some STP fuel injector cleaner about 50 miles ago but no change. Also, I've driven from Nottingham to Sheffield, Stockport, Bradford and back to Nottingham, and it's still doing it - so miles are not helping to clear any obstructions. If I'm sitting at a junction and I've managed to catch the revs before they drop off, occasionally I find it drops off anyway or splutters and fails to rev, as if the fuel is restricted even though I'm applying some throttle. Maybe my imagination, but it feels like fuel is being restricted - but then I guess the ECU could be doing something clever with the fueling... Answers on a postcard please! :brickwall: Cheers Chris PS: It's an L reg

My callipers are pretty manky and old, so I guess the sensors are pretty furred up. I'll be sure to keep an eye on them from here on. I made sure I slowed down nice and gently, for fear of locking up. Touch wood, it hasnt happened since.

Thanks for the advice :) I'm running 10w40 Synta Silver and seriously considering a Mocal, though before I do that I'm checking / swapping various obvious things on the cooling front. A new oil temp sensor is high on my list!

Indeed! I was in Germany.

So, last weekend i was whizzing along the autobahn, enjoying a bit of highspeed leap frog with an Audi, when (incidentally) my VR6 started to approach new heights of oil temp. Background: I have had all of my coolant system checked, thermostat replaced, it has a recent new rad, and while the coolant very rarely goes over 90 now, the oil can quickly hit 110 at a 70mph cruise. When really pushed in a straight line it can hit 120, and always drops back to that if i go super sonic once i slow down. If anyone knows how there can be such a high heat differential, id love to know any theories! Im coming to the conclusion that one of gauges is lying, especially since i had the chains and clutch done recently, along with a very thorough check over from Steve Cresswell, who found nothing untoward. So, at about 130mph (incidentally oil temp is now nudging 130 also), i hear an almighty "spong" noise and see the aforementioned ABS light of doom come on. I promptly slow right down, pull off, and then cut the ignition. A friend totalled his VR6 due to faulty ABS not slowing him down safely, so im a bit paniced by the light coming on without warning at high speed. Turning the engine over again, and the light is still on. I then remember the buyers guide advice and turn the engine over with my foot on the brake, and feel the reassuring pulse, afterwhich it goes out again and stays out for the rest of my journey of 200ish miles. So, whats with the ABS light coming on like that then? Im new to such technology ;) A bit off topic for this forum, but: Should i be more worried about my oil temp, and could the 2 issues be linked? Thanks! Chris

Cheers matey, fortunately you can't see the key scratch on the bonet from a few paces away!, but yes it does buff up nicely :luvlove: I was strangely drawn to the cheesy white car look, so had to have it. I've since taken to wearing big puffy jackets, have dusted off my 90s dance music collection, and have installed some fluffy white dice - a top upgrade for any car ;) :lol:

Nice one James, good answer - thx :) Some OBD1 Vs OBD2 pics would be top banana if poss, plz :D

Excuse the newbie question, but searching isn't coming up with a simple answer.. I'm trying to work out if there are any subtle or indeed significant differences between VR6 inlet manifolds (inc plenum chamber), so I can buy a second hand one, get it soda blasted externally and ported & polished internally. The only differences I can find are that some engines are described as OBD1 or OBD2, which seems to refer to a set of standards for On Board Diagnostics and emissions. Are there any differences between OBD1 and OBD2 engine's inlet manifolds? if you can offer more background on what the differences are in general, that'd be interesting to know. Also, I can't see any difference between 2.9l (ABV) Corrado VR6 inlet manifolds and 2.8l (AAA) Golf VR6 inlet manifolds. Is there anything I need to know? Cheers :) Chris

And the winner is... "Loctite 319", from Halfords. £3 ish, single use pack, tube of adhesive and treated mesh (2 part kit). :dorky: Chris

So I was adjusting the rear view mirror on my VR6 today, and the thin plastic double sided sticker that some windscreen replacement company had previously used to stick it on gave way. :nuts: (the car has clearly had a new screen - no pun intended!) After 90 mins of driving like I was in a van, I found a halfords but their best offering is a thin foam double sided sticker which vibrates like crazy when driving - no good at all. :nono: I couldn't find a local Autoglass in Nantwich (where I'm visiting this week), so could do with advice on any tried and tested ways to stick the bugg3r back on! What do you reckon? ...tried and tested solutions only please :) Cheers Chris

wish me luck! top tip ;)

Cheers ;)

Any tips or tricks out there for retrieving a side repeater cable and bulb assembly that has been taken out of the plastic housing for cleaning, but subsequently slipped inside the wing? Am I going to be fishing for it forever?! If it's not one thing, it's another... :nuts: Cheers Chris

thanks guys, very useful esp that shopping list!

Haha, I'm not ;) I thought I'd get some free advice off "the Brain" ..spookily, I've just PMd you RE: where you had your chains / clutch done.

Hey all A recent report by C&R in Nottingham agreed with me that I need my leaky rocker cover gasket replacing. This will also need 2 inlet manifold gaskets replacing as that obviously comes off in the process. It was suggested it's a good time to swap spark plugs (6 gets oily easily, so simply swap it for another). Also it's a good time to review the state of the timing chains and plastic tensioner / runner (?) as circa 111k miles is in the danger zone, esp since the bottom chain apparently sounds chattery, apparently. When discussing the rocker cover gasket, I was told that a new style plastic rocker cover could be substituted, along with a rubber gaskget (instead of the standard alu item) as these flex with the head and are less likely to leak oil in future. Anyone else heard of this? When did this plastic item appear and is it a standard part? Thanks! Chris PS: Any advice on what else to check while the cams are exposed? I'm *really* paranoid about getting calls from C&R saying "while we're down there... for only another £x00..." - C&R are sometimes known as Cops and Robbers! :pale:

Excuse the schoolboy question,but; I complained of a similar problem to C&R here in Nottingham. I pointed out that my new VR6 appears to have a newish slave cylinder and was told that therefore it's probably now time to look at replacing the master cylinder.. I was confused (coming from a Mk2 Golf / non-hydraulic background) that Steve indicated towards the brake master cylinder. Does the master cylinder actuate both the brakes and the clutch? :confused4:

cheers for the reassurance :)

Finally sorted today - thermostat was definately at fault, also needed a new housing (old one cracked, bought & fitted genuine, pattern one was leaky), plus various seals etc, plus a couple of senders while it was off = £109 parts and £40 labour (very reasonable labour charge I thought!). All works A OK now, coolant no more than 90, usually 80. Oil is still running up to 106 but I'm less worried as it seems to come down again courtesy of the effective coolant. I guess the oil is getting so warm as I'm very used to keeping the rev needle at 12 o'clock or more (I blame 16v Golf ownership for my revvy ways!!). Someone please shout if they think I should be worried about the oil running at 106 degrees, but otherwise I'll assume its now sorted :clap:

someone sticky this thread, adding the appropriate acronym to the title! Please :)

Fair comment, it just feels a bit rough to be "investing" in the car so early in my ownership!! It's taken the shine off my new toy a bit to be honest. It's not that I'm afraid to spend money on it, in fact that was the plan when I bought a cheaper one from a genuine enthusiast Vs a random off the internet (who would tell me to f off once I'd handed over the cash!). I have other things I wanted to improve first, rather than paying extra money to make it road worthy :gag: I'll see what my mechanic suggests... more news later ;)

Oh dear! If it gets to that I'm definately going to ask for a refund and return...