G-Lad

The definitive Rear 280mm thread is here: viewtopic.php?f=23&t=68661

anyone?

I really like my RainSport2s. I've had them since June and they're nicely worn in now. They were a bit slippery but have improved. Not quite as good as old style F1 GSD3s, but they're long gone now. The RainSport2s did well on the slushy roads from Edinburgh to Nottingham yesterday... Chris

I highly recommend AVS in Swaffham I've just replaced all of my suspension (except springs), ie dampers, various bushes, wishbones, top mounts, bump stops, the whole shebang :lol: Friendly, good product knowledge, fast delivery via Fedex UK, good communications. http://www.avscarparts.co.uk/ Their webstore is here: http://www.vwspares.co.uk/ Look here for what I bought and how much I paid. viewtopic.php?f=23&t=39334&start=705 Chris

If you want to go back to standard, check out my shopping list :) Firm enough at high speed for me, great on Nottigham's many speed bumps and pot holes, no wallow on lumpy / subsiding A roads, lovely controlled slides around corners... on private roads of course!!

My VR has just had a standard replacement as below. The dampers are Sachs Advantage, and all the rubber parts are either Febi or Meyle - ie OEM quality standard replacements. Taking out the price of the oil and filter, it's under £500, which I think is great. I've retained my original springs all round, and the ride is such an improvement from the wallowy mess it was. I know I'm probably in a minority for sticking to bog standard, but that's just me ;) Having had loads of trouble with a crashy back end on my Mk2, which had OEM rubber, Boge Turbo dampers and H&R 30mm lowering springs (fitted by Vince @ Stealth - ie an expert), I've decided to keep my C stock. Chris ========== Here you go folks, here's my shopping list - all courtesy of the highly recommended AVS in Swaffham: http://www.avscarparts.co.uk/ Their webstore is here: http://www.vwspares.co.uk/ Products ------------------------------------------------------ 2 x 14428 Ball Joint Kit (In Stock) (14428) = £25.50 1 x 1001990038 Engine Mount, Rear (In Stock) (1001990038) = £32.95 2 x 18358 Bumpstop, Front (Special Order) (18358) = £5.90 2 x 14116 Strut Top Mount Kit (In Stock) (14116) = £14.50 2 x 14230 ARB Link (In Stock) (D3_14230) = £23.90 2 x 09519 ARB Mount (In Stock) (09519) = £1.50 1 x 09531 Control Arm, Right (In Stock) (09531) = £32.95 1 x 09530 Control Arm, Left (In Stock) (09530) = £32.95 1 x 1001990031 Engine Mount, Front (In Stock) (1001990031) = £24.95 2 x 01367 Boot, Front (In Stock) (01367) = £4.70 2 x 170128 Shock Absorber, Front (Special Order) (170128) = £85.00 1 x 14958 Strut Top Mount Kit, Rear (In Stock) (14958) = £4.95 2 x 18362 Bumpstop, Rear (In Stock) (18362) = £17.00 2 x 06985 Boot, Rear (In Stock) (06985) = £1.90 2 x 1005120102 (was 19381) Spring Plate (In Stock) (1005120102) = £9.90 2 x 1005120006 Spring Buffer (In Stock) (1005120006) = £4.90 2 x 1005120015 Support Ring (In Stock) (1005120015) = £1.70 2 x 105776 Shock Absorber, Rear (In Stock) (105776) = £55.90 2 x 01172 Rear Axle Bush (In Stock) (01172) = £17.90 2 x 01198 Rear Axle Bush Bolt (Special Order) (01198) = £1.70 2 x 05139 Nut (In Stock) (05139) = £2.50 2 x Quantum Synta 5-Litre (In Stock) (ZGB115QLB004) = £29.90 1 x H932/5x Oil Filter (In Stock) (H932/5x) = £5.25 ------------------------------------------------------ Sub-Total: £438.30 (Delivery to UK : 48.22 Kg): £4.95 VAT @ 17.5%: £77.57 Total: £520.82

Hi Folks, I'm struggling to find a defintive brake upgrade thread for the VR6 and could do with some advice, if not a shopping list please! My original fronts are really really manky, and I'm sure my offside front disk is warped. It vibrates under heavy braking like I'm slowing on rumble strips, and makes all kind of mad vibrations at certain road speeds (not engine speeds). The backplates are really grim and falling apart, and the whole setup certainly look like its wearing 17years of scorched dust! I understand that to improve brakes it's not just about the disks and pads, but also the caliper's free movement you need to remember, when talking about old cars... I'm also wondering why it's warped in the first place. presumably from the caliper seizing, the disk not running smoothly and the disk getting hot. Heaven forbid i replace disks and pads only and it seizes and warps again. On the one hand I'd probably get a performance improvement just by replacing old with new standard. But if im going to lash out, what can i do to improve over standard and what are the key mod parts? I'm on a bit of a budget, having just replaced all dampers, bushes, wishbones and exhaust (that's what interest free credit cards are for, right? :shock: ), but obviously need to make sure I'm stopping safely. Id rather pay now to mod the car than regret not upgrading if its simple enough. So what are the facts? I understand Standard fronts are 280mm. 288mm seems to be a popular upgrade, with 312mm being a bit more hassle needing bigger rims, and not as big a step up from 288>312, that 280>288, or so I understand. :confused4: my ABS lights up and goes off, and pulses on ignition as it should. Is it likely that 15+yo sensors will be cooked into the old setup? Chris

Have you got them on Lupo arms, TT arms, or other? look like Lupo to me...

A somewhat belated mention, but I spotted a rather tasty Ivy Green Pearl 'rado in the VIP car park at Bloodstock heavy metal fest at Catton Hall in Derbyshire, between 13th & 16th August 2009... And while you're at it, I also spotted a blue VR backstage at Sonisphere metal fest at Knebworth Park on 2nd August, now I think about it! FAILED to take a photo of either through my drunken haze of jack n coke! :epicfail:

what sort of R32 are the coppers using in Coventry? Passat I assume? always good to know ;)

Goodyear Eagle F1s are really low grade rubber now, since about 2008. If you can find older manufactured F1s made in Germany that's OK, but most are now made in China but still bear the E (euro safety OK) mark (technically ok for use but not up to the same standard of circa 4-5 years ago). If buying F1s also check they aren't from other far eastern countries with no E mark (ie Thailand), as these are much harder compound designed to work in hotter climates, and actually illegal for use in the UK / Europe (ie failed E testing). Sorry, I've got no experience of the Kumho KU31s, I like my Rainsport2s :)

2 red Cs spotted in sunny Nottingham recently: One parked up outside a house on Hope Drive in The Park, central Nottingham. Amusingly, when I checked google maps for the street name, I saw it was on the aeriel view, and sure enough, here it is on street view too - somewhat in need of a damn good going over with a bottle of T Cut! http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?hl=en&q=c ... 4,,0,17.44 One parked up outside a house on Hucknall Road near the City Hospital. Sporting a bit of a dented NSF wing and door. Looks like it's had a paint job, as unbelievably bright red. http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=hucknal ... 6&t=h&z=21 ...failed to get reg details or model for either, but the former is an early spec 16v I think.

Finally got around to charging the battery and after a long wait, I hooked it up to the Golf last week. long story shory: Lots flashy dash lights and a mad looking rev counter. mild panic... gave up, wondering if Golf is now possessed! After a long drive this Sunday I whipped the battery out of the C and stuck it in the Golf. Turned the key and hey presto - started first time. Promptly tried the strangely behaved Bosch silver from the Golf into the C that worked too. Very odd indeed! Summary: I have 2 working cars and only needed a £20 battery charger to get me there! ...lesson learnt: don't let your battery run flat. Keep it trickle charged! :camp: Lets see if the revived Bosch keeps its charge in the C, with weekly use :)

Anyone got any top tips for getting out a stuck plug-end HT lead? The plastic clip-on lead-pullers are Ok for 3 plugs, but 1 of them simply won't budge - is there a proper metal tool i can get easily? :(

Battery charger purchased! I shall juice it up and try again in the week, while checking for fuel pump noise - cheers!

Excuse me for being totally lame, but I could do with some basic advice please! :nuts: :camp: Can someone give me a hitlist of things to try, to get my valver started? Was running fine, just not been turned over for 6mths. Battery was disconnected ok, and when hooked up to the VR6 this morning it happily pulls juice but won't spark. I have taken the dizzy off, given it a wipe and scrapped the electrodes and rotor edge with a key to ensure a spark. I can clearly hear the starter solenoid clicking in and out, and the engine turns, but it's all very laboured and never catches. It's previously stood for up to 2mths and always restarted, and usually under its own steam, but 6mths seems to have beaten it into submission :( What's next on my list of things to check / clean / replace? I suspect I need to get the plugs out, but don't have the right size long socket. I could pull 3 of the 4 HT leads off the spark plugs, but third from from the left wouldn't budget. all advice gratefully received! :salute: Chris PS: it's a mk2 Golf, but assume the same as a C for the purposes of this issue...

Rainsport2 = brilliant. :clap: like my old proper German-spec Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3s (before they starting making them in China). Perhaps a smidge more slippery than the F1s, but much more progressive and consistent than anything else I've had on the C VR6 or Golf2 16v. Should be able to get them for £60 per corner if looking for standard 205/50 R15 V

oh, thanks for the link - I'm planning to do full suspension setup in the next month, so that helps loads! :clap: recommended supplier I take it? Defo expecting to just chuck the whole wishbones in favour of new febi ones, with standard rubber already fitted. Same as Vince at Stealth recommended (and duly did) to my mk2 valver...

Damn, I wish I knew why people sold their cars to this guy. He only offers peanuts and sells at top whack prices (tho dropping since the market is going down in general). Frankly, the cars I viewed at TCS were nasty. One particular black VR6 with aircon and a serious damp problem springs to mind... ..sorry, trying to retain a rant :nuts:

16v all the way! I need to dust my valver off and get it out of my neighbours garage as they're having a kid soon and want the space back. Seriously thought about selling it for bad money to pay for more C suspension, but then I saw this and nearly wee'd myself with love for the small bumper mk2, and decided the C could live on the drive for a bit 'til Golfy is taxed and tested again... http://pistonheads.com/sales/1279434.htm

But there again, a knackered Storm is just another knackered Corrado imho. I really honestly would only take a Storm over a standard car with same equipment, if it was in better condition/ lower mileage / had better history / maintenance. Obv a better kitted standard car would win hands down. Green is a horrid colour anyway, so that slashes the available cars for me :norty:

so the regular corrados are the only ones with heated recaros? There are standard seats in cloth (manual adjust & unheated) or leather (manual adjust & heated), and Recaro seats in both cloth (electric adjust)and leather (not sure, never seen any in the flesh)... I personally favour cloth recaros to look at and sit in. I think Storms always had the standard quality leather (not Recaro), but don't quote me :)

Tidy looking green Storm in Broadmarsh Centre car park in central Nottingham... A8 **D

I agree with Philmo, If there is a specific blade that fits the already known-good tt arm on the passenger side, then I'd be much happier. I dremeled my passenger side tt blade, but id rather have an off the peg replacement for future ref. I'm happy with the drivers side tt arm and drivers side tt blade on the drivers side of my C. :grin:

Im happy to second that. They were a total god sent on a recent road trip to skye. Though dont run out of squirt juice as they need the lube, or the 15yr old mech struggles with the high friction modern blades. An essential and simple mod. Highly recommended.