G-Lad

Cheers, I'll have a look: http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/chubnut9999/ :)

Does anyone know for sure if GPC are still trading? I just emailed them on [email protected] but it bounced. I know they moved a few years ago from: UNIT 1, BRITANNIA EST, LEAGRAVE RD, LUTON, LLU3 1RL To: UNIT 6 NEW WELBURY FARM HEXTON ROAD HITCHIN HERTFORDSHIRE SG5 3BP They were conspicuous by their absence from GTi International this year...

Hi Neil VR6, Is this offer still valid please? I've just had my works AA cover withdrawn (they've stopped the private car additions scheme), so now I'm looking around and would really like Euro cover for my L reg VR6. Really want to do some touring... Cheers Chris

cheers peeps :)

Hey all I'm doing a lot of messing about with my wiring loom under the bonnet, while trying to sort out an electrical / cooling fault. Annoyingly, the black fabric tape that's wrapped around lots of the wiring loom is falling off.. That's 15 years of a hot VR6 for you! I don't want to use cr@ppy black electrical tape as it looks shoddy. Any ideas where I can buy nice black woven fabric tape, to make it look factory fresh again? Cheers Chris

Cheers :clap:

any top tips for avoiding an air lock? I was thinking of topping the expansion tank to the brim with water, to avoid actually losing sight of liquid in the tank..

excuse the potentially newbie question. A search of topics seems to imply the answer but id just like to be sure: Am i correct in thinking that its impossible to get an airlock in the coolant on a vr6, if your electric water pump is working? I understand that if refilling, you simply need to keep the top of the expansion tank (which is off already is you refill from there), them turn the ignition to position 1 and let the electric pump push the air out. I need to know, as i need to swap the temp sender that is about a 1/3 of the way up the rad. I have 3l of G12+ ready, on the assumption ill be able to whip the old one out and pop the new one in without fully emptying the system (it was recently refilled when the thermostat was replaced).

seemed an easy operation, except: ...I presume these badgers are dealer only?

very annoying that the vw parts man didnt tell me what part i need with the sensor, so i had to look it up myself . Therefore maybe add it to the thread so people know what part to ask for when ordering. When i went back He gave me one for free and apologised for not remembering to tell me..

Thanks guys :)

Cool, thanks. I've got a blue one and am awaiting a yellow (now black) one from Nottm VW today, along with o rings. Not sure on the fan cut-in speeds on VAGCOM, as I only got a look briefly. I'll swap both the blue and yellow sensors, plus the rad / fan control sensor and see how it goes. Fingers crossed! C

Is this yellow 4-pin sender (now blue/black if replaced) a likely reason for my VR to be reading 100+ coolant temp and 100+ oil temp via VAGCOM / ECU, while the coolant needle reads around 80? The fan doesn't seem to kick in quickly enough either, not until the coolant needle reads 90+ (which it only gets to if you have teh engine running and let it sit stationary for 5 mins - which I suspect is much hotter than 90!) Also, is it fair to I assume that the yellow sender requires the same O-ring as the blue ECU-coolant sender? ie o-ring N 903 168 02 Ta Chris

I've just been to buy one to fit, as suggested by my garage (C&R Enterprises). Part no 025 906 041 A Does it just push in? It has no thread or clips visible... I thought I'd better ask before ripping things to bits and disabling the car!! It didn't come with any kind of retainer or seal or anything, but I understand from a search that I need an O-ring N 903 168 02 as well Any advice on removal of the old blue sensor and o-ring?

Can I suggest updating the above, to mention that an O ring is needed when replacing the sensor? I just bought a genuine blue coolant sensor but wasn't advised to buy O-ring N 903 168 02 at the same time - very annoying. Cheers Chris

Try it with the car stationary and with fast wipe and a squirt of water. I found the passenger side occasionally hit the far end of the wipe on the bottom of the windscreen, though I'm pretty sure it's because I have worn linkages and it isn't specifically becasue of the TT arms - just due to the nature of a dodgy 15 year old mechanism and a modern high friction rubber blade putting added pressure on its movement, combined with needing to park the wipers and do the nut up with the arm in exactly the right place. I estimate 1 click the wrong way can throw it out by 10 degrees, plus the worn linkage factor means it can hit edges, but it's easy to rectify... main message: It's a good mod that works and I'm happy to have spent the £95 on! :D

I've recently fitted TT wipers purchased from Pat McCrotch and happy to confirm 3corsameal's comments above. I have noticed a slight rub on the side of the passenger arm against the screen scuttle too. It seems a superficial issue to me, but I'd follow 3corsameal's advice on this as they have run the mod for longer than I.. This minor rub point aside, from my fiddling and attempts to fine tune the wipers in general to ensure they wipe correctly and don't damage screen edges and themselves, there are basically 2 ways to make the TT wipers fit: 1) slightly bend the passenger one upwards 2) cut and then dremel the end of the blade (dremeling to refit the end cap, so it looks nice) option 1 is easiest but means the passenger wiper sits at a slight upturned angle, which I think doesn't look as nice. option 2 is more hassle and stops this being a simple fit and forget, but it looks much nicer imho. I would also add that when fitting, I spent quite a lot of time trying to find the perfect park position, and tested fast and slow wipes speeds when stationary. Not only did I find a few points where the wipers can hit the edges, but also when there is insufficient water on the screen, the high friction of these modern wipers seems to strain the 15 year old wipe mechanism a little. BUT, having said the above, I found none of the over wipe or friction issues actually made any problem or even manifested themselves when moving or squirting in actual use on the open road. The wind and rain in real use is obviously part of making these wipers work! If the wipe slows down due to lack of water either turn them off, go intermittent, or squirt the screen - obviously! Summary - this is a really easy swap, with no real brains / technical know-how required, just a few trial and error placement attempts required to get the best fit - as is always the case with fitting a wiper arm on a nutched spindle, even standard genuine ones. The only option is whether you slightly bend the passenger arm or keep it straight and trim the inside end of the passenger wiper. Hope that helps to clarify! PS: Here is how much I hacked off and the shape of the end you need to recut free-hand with a dremel:

Hi guys, thanks for the advice :) I quoted a part code for a fan control box for my VR, and was sent one apparently taken from a Seat, which while tatty and featuring a blown fuse is the right part code and does seem to work so far. It was made in hungary in 97 but has all the VW Audi logos.. Packaging was indeed good and fedex delivery reasonable price. I hunted for the right part on ebay for a while, and although a few breakers did immediately start auctions for me, they came up at the same price all in, so i opted for volks apart as a known company rather than risking an ebay argument in case of warranty claim, which everyone seems to offer if they are breakers.. Ill report back if it starts playing up and i get to test their warranty service!

Fair comment - no news is good news I suppose! :grin:

Thanks, I guess I'll risk it for a biscuit! 3 months warranty on a new fan control box is pretty reassuring. I'd like to know if they have a history of good or bad after sales care, ie is the warranty worth anything, or will I end up arguing if I have issues?

Hi Guys and Girls Are Volks Apart good to buy from? http://www.volkswagenspares.com/ Any positive or negative experiences you care to share? Cheers Chris

the receipt from my VR6's trip to C&R Enterprises has the clutch master cylinder part price listed as £66 plus VAT. The only hose I can see on the receipt is some "fuel hose 7mm rubber" at 2.85 plus VAT. Sorry, I can't estimate labour hours, as they did a whole stack of other jobs at the same time (chains, clutch, plus loads of general loom tidying, gearbox fiddling / cleaning, rocker cover gasket etc etc..) Chris

Yes please! How would you prefer payment? ..I thought it was summer and I could put this off, but no, it's June and chucking it down! :grin: Chris

Hi All, simple question (I hope): Are the single fuse type and 3 fuse type fan control boxes interchangable? My VR6 has a 3 fuse type fitted as standard: 357 919 506, but it is proving intermittent (although it doesn't rattle). I've sourced a single fuse type, which I believe is an earlier VR6 (please feel free to correct me), part code: 1H0 919 506A Are they interchangable, or should I keep hunting 'til I find the exact part code? :shrug: Any explanation as to why they are different appreciated. I haven't actually checked the connectors to be honest, but could do with a speedy reply and my car is at home today :camp: Cheers Chris

Brilliant metallic black. I downloaded the paint code list from the old wiki: http://wiki.the-corrado.net/ http://www.the-corrado.net/how-to/docs/VW%20Corrado%20Colours.doc