Dox

I use photobucket, upload pics and copy and paste the image url http://s22.photobucket.com/

I've just bled the brakes on my newly aquired T5 and the fluid looks like coca-cola, I've never seen anything like it!

Yes make the ABS work and get the brake pedal pulsing as the pump does its stuff

To exercise the valves in the pump the light needs to be off (fully working ABS) before heavy braking, the fluid in mine was filthy First bleed on the right

I think when available new they were £1200-£1400. Early MK3 Gtis (square side repeaters on the front wings) had a similar pump and ECU (under the rear seat) The one I fitted last week had a diffeerent part number to the one I removed hence needing time for evaluation etc Golf VR6 has the same PAS pump

I don't really want to mess around with bubble wrap etc I've been trying to give it a way for over 12 months so its not going anywhere fast. I might be in Cornwall in summer, where abouts are you?

The wider the tyre the more likely it is to aquaplane in rain soaked conditions The lighter the load on a given axle the more likely it is to aquaplane in rain soaked conditions The more worn the tyre the more likely it is to aquaplane in rain soaked conditions So a quality make 195 section tyre with perfect tread of the front of a corrado will do a good job of clearing the water beneath it. A wider 215 section tyre on the lighter rear on the same car with half worn tread will allow water to lift the tyre off the road leading to aquaplaning and a spin.

I've had inlet / outlet valve faults since I bought the car, tried another ecu, dash lamp, bled the system with fresh fluid, scanned reset codes etc last week I changed the pump, it's too soon to claim a fix but the light does now go out on a cold start. Things of note, dash light stays illuminated on a cold start, but would stay off for a while if restarted when the engine bay was hot. Removing and refitting the relays behind the glovebox kept the light off for a few days at a time as would disconnecting the battery for a while. A flat battery jumpstart scenario would always leave the light on until some charge was back in the battery and a restart which sort of points towards voltage drop not helping the situation. If you turn the ignition on you can see the dash light flicker as the system self tests, if the light doesn't flicker the light will stay illuminated without fail. I don't think BBA Reman recon the pumps anymore as the parts are obsolete. I need to try the car for a few weeks to see if the pump swap has cured mine, my car only passed its mot last Thursday and doesn't get driven much tbh

The tensioner bolt fits on the right in the pic screwed into the upper side cover, is the chain slack then? The chain guide is on the left and doesn't tension the chain.

I have a rear bumper in grey free to collector in Cheshire if you're ever passing or know someone who does

The front panel of the 4 cylinder cars isn't suitable for the VR6 and vise versa. Wouldn't it be easier if you say exactly what you want to do?

Does it matter what the figure is? currently there's too much poke, its either adjust the arches, fit a narrower axle (if avaiable) or get the wheel centres machined to reduce said poke. I presume there's no spacers fitted? A pic of a G60 rear axle, stub axle flange to stub axle flange, narrower than a VR6 axle?

I have a vortex socket set now but for years I used the above method, grind 2 flats on a socket parrallel to the square drive so as to not weaken it too much then use a spaanner on the flats and an allen key through the middle of the socket

The only other thing it could be is a cracked head or block assuming coolant has not run in via the plug hole?

Stubby aerial?

HG is breached into that cylinder. I was trying to compression test on of mine and got a shower Tripped all the power off to the house lol

I put a piece of rag in an over size socket filled with engine oil and push it onto the manifold threads using extensions if they cant be sprayed easily with WD40 etc As you unscrew the nuts rust will bind the threads, so work them anti clock, then clockwise to clear the rust as you go, otherwise the studs will snap making it a much bigger job

I remember a mate destroying the CL pump on his MK2 trying to wire up the remote, once the pump was replaced he was advised to use a mechanical actuator and attach it to the pull knob rod on the drivers side to keep the systems electrically separate, the switches in the pneumatic actuators fire the pump into life and lock all doors. EDIT, ignore this, pulling down the knob doesn't lock the doors on the Corrado

Henny's old g60 I broke had early bumpers and interior, late bonnet and wings. A 20 year old car could be fitted with any combination by now, id bet there's a few with one early and one late front wing?

Chains kit and a clutch kit around £600, plus 8 - 10 hours or so labour

"Both the VR6 and the Nugget will be advertised for sale soon. Pretty much everything you need to know about both cars is in here but any questions please ask. £7.5k ono For the Nugget £13k ono For the VR6" http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=36576&page=62&highlight=kipvw

I think you need to take something off your original list rather than add more on if you've not found something suitable in 4 weeks. I think Kip wants £14K for his, its one of a very few cars that qualifys for your exacting list of requirements and is for sale?

Some quote with half a tank of fuel and the driver?

My other half picked up the ecu from the post office yesterday (they tried to deliver on Friday but no one was home at the time), all good and well packed, thank you

Can you sellect gears with the engine switched off?