Dox

The 30+ year old capacitors would be on my radar as they fail with age - check for signs of expansion? You could try and desolder them to see if features return (before replacing them?) - note the orientation before removal +/-. The voltage regulator is mainly for fuel and temperature gauges, if you didn't have it the readings would differ engine off / engine running due to higher alternator voltage. Road speed is calculated by the final drive in the gearbox, RPMs from the hall sensors in the distributer (so neither affected by voltage surge).

Have you checked this?

You have 2 separate issues, both dash related - the engine runs so the hall sensor in the dizzy is obviously working? It appears you have a wiring or binnacle issue if as suggested the 2 faults occurred at the same time? If you short the 2 pins in the plug that will effectively prove disprove the expansion tank issue?

Hi, you need to be a paid subscriber to use the whole of the forum these days. I've never owned a G60, but have owned a MK2 Golf 8 valve and I'm sure the dash had an earth point on the engine cam cover or cylinderhead? Should that be the case check for fracture, security and corrosion. Next I'd remove the dash binnacle and inspect the plugs / wiring etc

Any car that has no interest is too expensive. Any car that has many viewing and no buyers has an issue with condition vs price. the buyer always dictates the selling price glws

In the boot around the spare wheel?

It helps me, never heard of them 😆 👍

https://www.mk1autohaus.com/ https://www.mk1autohaus.com/ you missed the O out, auto haus

No problem.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/313996012375

Low idle speed, too larger pulley on the alternator (lower rotational speed) will both cause the alternator to not charge until revved. AS will a failing alternator - remove the brush pack and check the ends of the bushes for length - check they move easily against there springs - soot on the end of the brush is a sure sign of arcing. Resistance causes voltage drop, testing for voltage drop is more meaningful than resistance (unless you do this day in, day out). Meter to DC Volts Start the car and rev it. The source of power is the alternator, positive lead to the alternator cable tag, negative to the alternator casing - note the result. Move the negative to the earth point of the battery, note the result and compare, any loss is the voltage drop due to resistance in the circuit (alternator body - alternator bracket - engine block - gearbox bell housing - bolt / nut to earth tag on the earth lead - the lead itself - battery connection). If you just want to search for the loss, place the positive lead on the alternator body, the negative to the earth connection on the battery - this is potential (voltage) difference in the circuit

Nope, 12v (actually 9 or 10V via a the clusters built in voltage regulator) to one side of the gauge, negative via the variable sensor on the block.

Oil temp for sure earths on the block (single wire sensor). I'd put money on it the coolant temp does too (eyelet to the block?). Make sure the main engine earth is in good condition - broken / corroded / loose will mean heavy starter current turning over the engine will try and earth via any wiring connected to the block instead

It would be worth adding your location, we're all hoarders and would be tempted if local to you.

I've no idea mate

What does it look like? I've not sold it so must have it somewhere....

I think I have late door looms somewhere.....

Not SORN No MOT since online records began Same owner since 1998 Not exported Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good news. pop in for a coffee if you’re ever over this way with it

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As far as I’m aware, the light housings are the same, the lenses and surrounds changed for the late models

5W-40 is just thinner from cold, running viscosity (40) will be the same?

I’m in no way connected with the above, but have used them a few times to coat wheels 16” are £35 per rim blast and coat silver with a top coat of lacquer. Note, any kerbing / scratches will remain (this isn’t a wheel refurb!), so I spent an hour or so myself sanding off kerb rash before I took them in Before (as taken in, it wasn’t worth cleaning them prior- they’re as bad as you can get - rattle can on top of brake dust!). They blast anything, I had our front railings done black at the same time, dropped off a week ago, collected today Previously recommended by C5OEM (long OCD storm owner). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Forum rule should be deals done in open sight on the board, not by PMs PMs only once the deal is sealed for payment and address details etc Then if spotted Toby can take action

https://jamboards.com/threads/jamboards-wtb-scams.13875/page-4