Dox

For thirty years I’ve thought the supercharger worked a different way….

Rear spoiler fix, Elvis used the forum to fix the speed activated spoiler (blue with white trace wire at the back of the stereo wrongly connected). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Personally I’d only have my own rack refurbished. I’m sure a friend of a friend had their Volvo rack refurbed there, so far all good. a friend with a mk4 is on his 3rd rack in 2 years, exchange is a bit of a lottery imo

Matrix and connectors are all a single piece

Vr6 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's the heavy wire from the battery (needs a clean up), its the thin wire on the starter solenoid that needs 12v+ to kick the starter in. The starter has 3 connections. Earth, this is from the metal body of the starter to the metal of the gearbox bellhousing via its bolts, the earth to the battery terminal (thick wire) is on one of the bell housing to engine bolts, needs to be able to carry a heavy current when cranking the engine over. Positive thick wire from the battery to the starter secured with a nut (13mm spanner), carries a heavy current when cranking the engine over. Positive from the ignition switch, this is a thin wire with a push fit connector, needs to carry less current from the switch to prevent the switch burning out. This is the one you connect to 12V+ to do the test I suggested previously (mimic the ignition switch).

Yes, but if the engine cranks strongly it proves battery and starter ok. then it needs investigation to ignition switch or immobiliser(s).

Car out of gear! IMPORTANT IF YOU'RE STANDING IN FRONT OF IT!). Ignition on Apply 12v+ to the small terminal on the starter - prepare for the engine to crank (this is ignition switch bypass). does engine run?

These will be going on eBay next week if there’s no interest here?

Factory immobiliser is on the same fuse as the rear spoiler- if the spoiler lifts on the button the fuse is ok. check wires to rear of ignition switch, if the securing tab has broken they can fall off the back of the switch. battery has to be suspect if it’s been flattened then recharged for the sale, 12.6v when left over night with a meter calibrated with another source - your daily?

I’m sure the VR6 knuckles only have one, the bearing pushes against the cast flange of the knuckle?

The grease cap looks like corrado, I suspect behind there is the split pin / top hat / tabbed washer as oe the disk looks sloppy on the hub centre? Polo / Mk4 cap is a round disc affair

Stub axle appears standard Corrado taper bearing set up?

Rears appear to be a hybrid set up, OE taper bearings and disks machined to become a hub? MK4 / TT quattro 256mm disks MK4 2WD / TT Quattro etc callipers Carriers could be MK4 2WD or TT Quattro (different offsets to allow for different hub set ups) Carrier to axle adaptors? Easiest would be a swap back to OE set up? Does the 256mm set up hit on the back of the spokes or the barrels of the speediness?

Sold and gone to a good home. lovely to meet you

You said maybe Uttoxeter, so Costa or Macdonalds?

Should be fine, nothing on tomorrow

Pics would be good. The rears are 256mm vented? Fronts could be redeployed with smaller disks and calliper adaptors maybe? Purple toms sale thread, he was one of the first in the UK to master the 256mm brake upgrade, not sure if you'll find anything in his threads with speediness fitted?

I'm working tomorrow, then off for 12 days, so available to meet when convenient to us both. No need for apologies, I expected it to be in the coming week or so anyway. Hope you had a good holiday?

Mine cracked vertically, fan housing is riveted to the air box, Alloy just snapped

From what I’ve read the matrix is different to the no A/C type. once I removed the air box from the shell it snapped in half, might be worth bracing it if you can?

For those who’ve never done this, when you press the bearing into the knuckle you press the outer ring of the bearing only (the old outer part of the previous bearing is prefect for this, a slit cut with an angle grinder allows the outer to contract a little so it doesn’t get stuck where the circling fits once fully home). When you press the drive flange / hub into the centre of the bearing from the front you need to support the rear inner part of the bearing from the rear - if you don’t you shorten the life of the sealed bearing / destroy it. Do not allow the two threaded holes the carrier bolts to to take any load from the press as being cast iron they break off easily

They must have taken the dashboard out so why such a cobble up god only knows, unless it was a team effort, one does his bit, on to the next, then the next. YEEEHHHHHAAAAA! Diavia aka, Buffalo Bill and Wyatt Earp!

The Diavia "fitters" (they weren't technicians for sure!) must have been on piece work.....

I suspect you don’t have full paid membership to the classifieds? what’s wrong with yours?