Dox

Every 3db is twice the real world volume (I have tinnitus now - factory work is great….), not sure what the values are. The rainsports have a nice compliant ride I found, the A2 mentioned came with 17s being a sports spec, theses were quickly swapped for lightweight 15s and I even went up 5% on the recommended factory aspect ratio for more comfort (I never thought I’d do that 30 years ago 😂). suspension, tyres and the cars use should be considered as a package IMO 17s, slammed and shows at weekends is one thing, the same for a 40 mile per day over rutted, pot holes and speed bumps commute just wouldn’t be tolerable for 56 year old me now

I like rainsports too, I bought them last year for my Audi A2 TDi https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303434892552?fits=Rim+Diameter%3A16|Tyre+Width%3A205|Aspect+Ratio%3A45&hash=item46a6210508%3Ag%3AgzAAAOSw2bReE2u7&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0MrYnsosN0GEOyShvbD%2Bb2NOMNXsOnnI2hoWvp84SYWYNsttQ0CQk%2BJunU0phAuiDW1E2cg7LIndSki7vMa1qXA7DfkNMxvP92rsTG7egZtq5%2BvfKdeCpQ4yjJHPZu5F15JCNdy%2FWafFKNf5an5azL6oWGIKXgHcYfjqTovU12TAky1K%2FD%2B0FQwvrVASxWzl7qB8toYP85Lgm%2FxnDhNhiItq8qBfImIaIUJ55PkkEO5rwWDNpv7El0DTvakMP3PBeAN6W%2FWIyar4NuX8e8ZCz7w%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_bB6qnWYg&LH_ItemCondition=1000 I also like Dunlop sportmaxx for the rim protection they offer (18" TT MK1) I have Toyos on my speedines, I used them all year around - lots of people here don't like them (as I found out the last time I mentioned it lol).

You have to be a paying member to post pics? Also anti spam means you'll need a minimum post count too?

Also notice if the brake pedal drops when started - servo vac leak - FPR uses vacuum hence why you start the car throttle closed for max vacuum

Observe the RPMs on the dash when long crank appears - crank sensor if the needle doesn't move. VCDS, check coolant temp and ambient (if possible on OBD1?) - there's a CTS temp / resistance value table in the Bentley manual Coils fail mostly when hot - problem being crank and cam sensors are a coil, as is the coil pack if its a miss-fire. Does the aux coolant pump run?

Wire brush / lube is a must. No mention of "matrix" in the topic title, that's what people will search for. Thanks for taking the time to write a guide

Take the car for an hours test drive then see if it’s worth the asking price asked and negotiate face to face

It will, engine is heavier than the gearbox

ABS needs a scan - likely dry solder joints in the pump, but I'd re solder the joints in the pedal position sensor first as that's easier. Heat from the manifold / engine warms the pump and the light will stay off after a restart. If you're anywhere near Cheshire I can scan the car

They must be able to see the classifieds? Are they paid up members? Or is that part of the forum open for all to see?

I bought something before Xmas, Evri lost it, seller got no compensation due to late claim - for being patient in busy times (postal strike etc) and their lack of communication It was noted on their system as missing too

Check them first, just allow some slack for used OE components

Our Evri couriers have always been good, however that’s not the case with all. I’ve had no complaints with postage costs and it’s the buyer that pays I might try yodel for cheaper stuff though

It’s also time consuming too and fro from the post office as well as wrapping

I decided to sell some stuff as I’m not working atm, it’s quite addictive 😆 there’s some stuff I won’t sell until my car has gone if it’s small / light enough to get in the garage loft. don’t want to be paying Chinnor tax should I have a mishap…..

It makes life difficult pricing your stuff as personally I don't want to sell to a reseller (I call it Chinnor tax).

I believe people have used Passat parts in the past.

The book was written by stripping a new car, with OE spec parts and might need some interpretation using what we have now (I think so).

Your rear stub axles will be oval by now. Jack the rear wheels up, handbrake off. Hold the wheels at 3 and 9 o'clock, with new bearings there should be some play (if not the bearings will squeegee the grease away and you have metal on metal and premature failure), swap to 12 and 6 o'clock, if there's more play this is an indication of oval stub axles. Most testers are too young to have experienced taper bearings and compare them to cassette bearings on modern cars and fail / advise is the norm.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284168505398?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=RnFV2d8IQli&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=SPgov0z1SyG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY is this the tool?

If stored indoors and pulling outside to work on the car, beware the headlining falling in. One day in the sun after 7 years inside and the liner collapsed covering cream leather with orange sticky snot! it gets everywhere

The 30+ year old capacitors would be on my radar as they fail with age - check for signs of expansion? You could try and desolder them to see if features return (before replacing them?) - note the orientation before removal +/-. The voltage regulator is mainly for fuel and temperature gauges, if you didn't have it the readings would differ engine off / engine running due to higher alternator voltage. Road speed is calculated by the final drive in the gearbox, RPMs from the hall sensors in the distributer (so neither affected by voltage surge).

Have you checked this?

You have 2 separate issues, both dash related - the engine runs so the hall sensor in the dizzy is obviously working? It appears you have a wiring or binnacle issue if as suggested the 2 faults occurred at the same time? If you short the 2 pins in the plug that will effectively prove disprove the expansion tank issue?

Hi, you need to be a paid subscriber to use the whole of the forum these days. I've never owned a G60, but have owned a MK2 Golf 8 valve and I'm sure the dash had an earth point on the engine cam cover or cylinderhead? Should that be the case check for fracture, security and corrosion. Next I'd remove the dash binnacle and inspect the plugs / wiring etc