Dox

Well over £1k, every bolt would need replacing. Mine looked grotty, but never got advisories the guy never mentioned the December 2022 fail in the listing?

Failed almost every mot from its first, I know if I’d started renewing rear arms etc I’d end up doing a full rebuild. There’s a few groups on fb, I’d recommend looking there, if you click in the posters name you can see their history in that group. I’d research paint colours and try and find a rare one, Merlin purple is similar to blackberry. I’ve never bought a good car off eBay Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use the Vehicle Smart app to view MOT history etc. My car never had rear seat passengers, seats were always folded down TBH - it's surprising what will fit inside the rear. My Mrs is 5'2" and struggled in the rear on my brothers MK2 V6 (never tried the MK1, didn't need too) - if someone climbs in the back with the boot open you need to be careful when closing it. It was very rare I was ever 2 up as my car was mainly used for commuting. Being VAG and 20+ years old many parts are being discontinued. My 1.8t used 3/4 litre of oil per 1000 miles - exhaust was clean, 20 valve seals most likely the culprit here. The previous owner of mine was very vocal about me using revs prior to the engine being up to temp (doesn't take long in these cars) and is probably why mine was so reliable for 4 years

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Your best bet is to try one. I'd be looking for an enthusiast owned car, fully rebuilt rear suspension with rust preventative measures (rear arms snap due to rot and the ball joints partial seizure - looks alarming but usually you can pull up to a stop and call recovery).. Sills are bolt on, but rust can get hold between the sills and body due to road grime sanding away paint - you'll be very luck to find rust free covers. 2 years ago cover were £200 per side + VAT, paint and fitting (front bumper and wings off, so labour intensive). Like all VAG cars front wings are a service item due to the water soaked sponge at 12 o'clock on the arch - if you see rust they're holed as they rust inside out. Boost leaks, the DV is often the culprit, new OE is now recommended rather than blingy alloy boy racer item unless big power. Con rods only good for upto 300 BHP / 300 F/lbs on 1.8ts being the max safe limit. Test the haled with a launch, wheel spins will prove it's not functioning as it should, there's an earth strap between diff and body that rots, cheap fix, other faults are not. Good news is they don't drive like the MK4 Golf they're based on (many Golf owners upgrade to the TT knuckles for improved geometry and better clearance of ARB and driveshafts). People who modded them highly are finding their investment doesn't pan out when it comes to resale and some of the best cars get broken (sound familiar?).

Rear seats little better than a parcel shelf, I used to travel with 4 adults in my corrado, no chance in a tt

Mk1 BAM 1.8t, very reliable tbh. fromt wings, sill covers and rear axle components rust like a well used skip. id like another, but old bones nag me not to buy another

The car has been off the road for 6 years, so priority should be recommissioning. I’ll probably sell it next year, old age / arthritis means low cars with big doors make life awkward on car parks etc i sold my tt last year for this very reason. I bought a caddy maxi yesterday, so vehicle total back up to 4

I'm in two minds whether to sell mine, I've had it 6+ years and its still on the shelf. My plan was to build a spare engine and box to leave the original intact, so I've amassed the Schrick, a spare ABV, Wiseco 3L pistons, a VR6 box and a spare Golf MK3 16V box for the diff. 17" BBS RS, not even been off the shelf since I bought them nearly 10 years ago I've driven 1K miles to collect this stuff - it's a disease lol

Just send it to stealth for immobiliser removal?

They weren't that accurate anyway, a modified car wouldn't achieve the readout anyway? It's more important that it works than real world accuracy these days? Good pension fund going forward lol

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USA gallon is different to UK?

U/Js can dry out if the heat shield / rubber cover is missing due to drying out / water ingress. I suppose the bushes bearings can fail. Are you sure the track rod ends are the right orientation, I'm sure they can bind on the knuckles if transposed? Watch the tensioner when turning right / left for excess movement / jumping

Make sure the struts turn with weight on the ground. Disconnect the track rod ends from the knuckles, place a magazine under the tyres, drop the car down and check for tight spots both sides by turning the wheels with your hands lock left and right. this will ensure the struts are free to move narrowing it down to rack, pipe work or pump hth

Id suggest warming them in boiling water, drying the socket and squeezing them on with pump pliers with the roller already inside the channel. All Corrado plastics should be warm(ed with a hairdryer) before removal

I replaced mine on the drivers door, one was destroyed (rear?) the other I posted to a member here for reuse. PM your address and I'll get it posted to you.

I found a used one yesterday if it’s any good to you?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275684167392?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338817149&toolid=10050&customid=DANSWORKAROUND2&ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-53481-19255-0%2F1

MK1 TT rear axles are horrific compared to that

Worn roller cause the window to rattle - especially when closing the door window part way down. Passenger side won't be as worn, you could switch them around

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2101643966690647/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A27b56f90-e5ab-47aa-a8b9-b6ec31fc7f02

Google 17748 / 17755 (cam / crank correlation codes) chain stretch maybe, maybe crank / cam sensors, sprockets, VVT actuators, oil passage restrictions, loom, ECU, chain jump. The upper chain was replaced on some due to recall (in practice only when the visited VW for service) as Sachs stamped their name too heavily into the chain links causing weak spots and eventually snapping. Give me a donkey / boat anchor VR6 anyway over one of these

MK3s, MK4s, MK5s ...... Have the noise dampening foam rotting out the wings inside out, as soon as you see a blister they're holed, I've not had a MK4 with a kit, but they've all rotted in the same place and again its inside to outside.

Same as corrado for rust, front wings, rear of the sills / inner arch at the bottom. You’d think they’d learn 😂