Dox

https://m.mister-auto.co.uk/ Mobile aircon chap put me in touch with these, they’re very competitive on more modern stuff so maybe worth a try?

Blocked cat or exhaust from remnants from the cat?

wkd59

https://www.rotboxrustorations.com/corrado-wings.html These are forum members ozowens wings being repaired

Doors, bonnets and boots are plentiful and cheap, there's little point repairing them especially if you can find one in the correct colour. I've personally driven 1000s of miles for parts for my projects. There's a few breakers that will cut sections of shells to repair cars where off the shelf panels are unobtainable.

Post 30 http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?104653-2-0-16v-Corrado/page3

Someone’s supposed to be picking them up when back off their hol, but I do still have them at the moment

You need the correct part number to match yours, so remove yours first. Put a wanted advert up here, many of us have known good spares rather than hit and miss eBay stuff and it all helps to keep this community going

Well the other end is the ECU, its known for the windscreen seal to fail and water gets inside causing corrosion. Its located by the passengers left ankle behind a plastic panel, check the connector pins for corrosion, if OK open it up and check the PCB for corrosion also. You'll only need a screwdriver to check this, but its recommended to remove the earth connection from the battery first.

No, you will need to dismantle the brakes and remove the disk to inspect the sensor / reluctor.

It sounds like the air gap between one of the sensors and its reluctor ring is varying triggering the ABS into thinking a wheel is locked (each sensor counts the segments of the reluctor and the ecu compares them to determine if a wheel is locked). I'd check the condition of the reluctor baskets on the back of the rear disks first

Just get it running and driving and take it from there, plenty people want a rolling project rather than a full resto rebuild

Do you see the car as a long term purchase or short term hobby before moving on to something else?

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?50041-Somersetdub-s-Aqua-Blue-VR6/page9 I have a similar set up from an A3 on the shelf, no wiring though, £40 posted

GSF60 From today until Monday 30th

There’s different part numbers depending on the wiring plug configuration, you need to quote the the last two letters of the part number for an exact match.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F281513710576 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F272975992266 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F281734345253

wkd59

I’ve just tried to view the VR6OC forum, is it down or gone for good?

I'm sure if you looked on the vortex you'd find the answer? I only know of one MK4 12V 2wd and that is Roger Moores Bamberg VR6

You could of course upgrade to USA MK4 spec management including the variable inlet manifold (cheap schrick) to build something unique? I think the engine code is AFP if you want to look into it?

What's the engine code? It would be worth checking the cam sensor sprocket is compatible as the USA got a MK4 12V 2.8 VR6 2WD and your engine appears to be from May 99?

Not many commute daily in cars 40+ years old? There is a huge industry supplying parts, rebuilding them and keeping them on the road - all generating revenue / VAT, so removing excise duty and MOT (less than £2 goes to the government elected body - the majority goes to the testing station / garage) wont significantly reduce the governments funds too much? Being MOT exempt at 40 years old also means they can tighten standards to the point an old drum braked cars couldn't obtain even when they were in production.

It sounds like one cam has jumped a couple of teeth and valves have kissed the pistons - the whole bank has no compression. If your pistons are declared OK by a machine shop you could bore a 2.8 block and fit them with new rings?

WED60 today only