Dox

I wasn’t sure so searched CGTi site yesterday and it seems so. Where did you get the clutch from?

If the plate doesn’t sell it goes on the car and the engine gets built with pistons and schrick, sorry

So what are you going to try next?

Not going in gear with the engine running but all gears selecting with the engine off is a classic clutch issue, the pressure plate is still holding the friction late close enough to the flywheel to rotate the gears inside the gearbox making it impossible to select first gear. What's the set up, o2J MK4 gearbox, G60 solid flywheel and VR6 clutch?

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Try clamping the flexi near the gearbox, the pedal should be solid if all air is expelled from the line.

£50 per pair posted. These came on a rolling shell I bought to strip, the shell went last week - I needed to keep it rolling until it went. The car has previously been a project (an aborted 2L TFSi transplant) and came to me without an engine so it hasn't been used for 4+ years and never used by me. Its up to the buyer to assess there condition before use, no warranty implied or given. Pics to follow.

Put 12V to the small connection on the starter and it should crank if the starter is OK - make sure the car is out of gear otherwise it will run you over!

Not quite what you asked for, 16 inch five spokes look good, not sure if speedos would look as good? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can fire the relays with a 9V PP3 battery without any wires, the pitch of the connectors is ideal.

Have you checked that fuse from the battery?

163, is that at the wheels or corrected to flywheel figure?

Is it on eBay for £4250?

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When is the fuel injected? If its on the compression stroke the mixture will be pulverised as the piston rises compressing the mixture.

Most Corrados have been broken because the value of there parts far exceed the prices they could achieve for the cars whole at that moment in time. Its not only the pumps that are unreliable, the pedal sensors are problematic too, dash lights as well as relctor rings and the wheel sensors themselves, not to mention water ingress into the ECU via a leaking windscreen. Couple that with the fact most scanners wont connect / read the codes. My car arrived with the light continually on, a scan with VCDS pulled loads of faults, a front wheel sensor put the light off so I could get the cars first ever MOT pass. The fault then went intermittent, I replaced the pump with a used one and that got rid of the inlet / outlet valve faults (after a replacement ECU had no effect what so ever) and then I had intermittent pedal sensor faults, a reconditioned (re-soldered) pedal sensor has put the light out permanently ( for the time being at least). So don't be surprised if there are multiple issues if the light has been ignored or bypassed for ever and a day. People have said there's just enough wiring to connect to a pump for trial without disturbing the hydraulics on the original unit, I've not tried it myself but maybe worth a go before you rip out the old unit and have the tedious job of trying to expel all the air now in the brakes lines. All this was before the Wheeler Dealers episode was screened with the help of this forum and its members posts.

We're not going to agree, so let others decide which way they want to go.

I've got that issue on the hard-drive - I've just watched it, they replaced the cylindrical motor for a used one, they replaced the PCB for a used one. They blew it out with an airline and blasted the corrosion from the outer casing and tested it before and after. Hardly a recon, more Franken-pump? Don't get me wrong I applaud them for doing their best to repair our obsolete spares and keep our cars legal, but suggest its more of a repair than a recon?

From what others have said BBA Reman can only repair the PCB or swap the cylindrical motor for a used one, all other parts are obsolete. I paid £30 for a MK3 Golf Pump and it works fine even though it has a different part number, it’s off an early car with rectangular side repeater indicators, the ecu is under the back seat.

Purpletom has done the vented upgrade, but as photobucket has struck again you canr see the pics anymore. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?82193-Purple-Tom-s-VR6-Back-on-the-road http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?91682-VW-Polo-sealed-bearing-upgrade-rear-stub-axles-hubs-and-powdercoated-disc-shields

Is it just a case of adding a thick-ish gasket? Too stop the flap going too far inside? Do you still want the TT vented rear brakes?

If I'm understanding you properly if you disable the flap you may as well just run the standard mani, if you modify the schrick it will be worthless? And that's £1K down the drain. I've not stripped mine, but can take a pic of how its fitted as is?

The apertures on the cubby holes on LHD and RHD are different. You can buy a gauge pod for 2 gauges on ebay if you just want a facia for something else?

The sensor is basically a variable resistor, adding another gauge would mean both would miss-read. I’ve drilled the sump plug and tapped in the past, I’ve also drilled the sump and used a bolt, nut and a pair of copper washers in the side of the sump to do a similar job (drilled and tapped again)when the sump plug was prone to grounding on speed bumps etc

2 gauges running off one temp sender?