casual

looking at the engine from the front of the car. left side would be the brake/clutch reservoir right side with red cap is power steering, behind that is big reservior for coolant think it should have blue cap

wkd :D

hey, you might want to try looking at the wheel alignment. sometimes if this is not set up correctly or adversely it can cause you to wonder or follow the road / bumps. However it will cost you to do this and then if it is fine and you have to change something like a track rod end then you will have to get it set up again. tyres ok? correct pressures? any wear to them side to side? unless you are ok with getting hands on or no some one who is, i would take it to a garage and ask them to check for these symptoms. my vr6 steering isnt great at the moment. feels abit lost in the centre. i think this is the rack its self more than anything but im having one recon'd soon. as they other guys have mentioned, i would try the track rod ends and top suspension mounts first. casual

all came through the other day . cheers. all connected up but unable to try it out fully as yet but looks good so far.

agreed, you shut off injectors under no load conditions so you save fuel but idleing you will use more. it wont harm your engine, but some may say its unsafe as you have no real control if anything bad was to happen .

watch out for the Redbull F1 art attack :D

i have just finished doing mine couple weeks ago. however mine were slightly too low.........yeah too low !!! :lol: the shocks were pretty good still but the threads were rusty and so the platforms were seized. i took them off one by one n cleaned them up with wire woolwheel in a drill came up prefect like new. n used a punch and hammer to crack off the platforms. n just kept working them back n forwards untill free. if that helps you at all. casual

2nd that :) just let me no when they are ready n want paying cheers

Hi, phoned up VW for these parts but the 1J295...... part number doesnt come up with anything. eventually tracked the part number down to be 1J2955426B best price i could get so far is £104.95 for the 2 arms n 2 blades. is that about right? ?? seems abit much !

im not going to risk it and keep my mouth shut lol

mechanically ul be fine. the charger basically just forces more air into the engine. however you will be down on power big time and running very rich. so im guessing it wont help the pussycat in ur exhaust and ur plugs. just like to add. i feel ur pain. :(

nice one fella

Hi mate, could you put me down for a 3 relay jobby please. how long is the waiting list at the moment? sounds like you have some very good feed back anyway. cheers casual

why did you spray wd on the disks? this potentially contaminates the pads...bad idea!!! try taking the pads out and filing down the leading edge, or if its doing it in reverse the trailing edge of the pad at an angle. if your disks are worped or have runout badly ul feel brake rudder.

if you have access to a dial gauge you could set it up on the disk and check it that way. as long as everythings tight i cant think why it would only judder under braking from a suspension point of view. the wings, i was thinking mayb if your car has had anything replaced it might not be exact? only other thing i can think of is try measuring from the centre bolt hole at the bottom of the shock to the top ring rather than the locking ring. prob dont help much lol

shuddering under braking sounds more like disk warping to me. after adjust the coil overs jump up n down on the car ( not literally on the car :lol: ) is it possible that the wings are slightly out? tyre pressure all the same? have u measured the same amount of threads on each shock?

disconnect the battery and connect the postive n negative terminal cables (only the cables / leads) together. this will drain down the system / circuits / ecu's in the car hold together 10 sec's and you should be good. its a quick way of deleting errors in ecu's to check if there stored or present.

:lol: iv been close many a time. .......... i still am now!!

i would advice against yoko pradas (if you can get them in a 15 that is), ive replaced the toyos i had on my other car with these, they are great in the dry, but a REAL let down in the wet, im just glad they are a soft compound and are wearing out quick. Thanks vag-hag haha you can always do a few burn outs. noted your advice cheers :)

the tyres on mine were over 8 years old when i brought her so i gota fork out n buy some nice rubber, looked at all the tyre threads but i guess you cant try before u buy

just done exactly the same to mine. just need to find the right tyre combo now. what are you running on them?

nice write up - looking into this. it stopped they play in the steering then im guessing?

had same issue but i cleaned up the hub untill it slide nicely in... i recommend

crack off the pipes that go into the abs unit 1 at a time. 2 pipes go into it, and 4 come out and go to the calipers. bleeding the brakes manually shouldnt damage the MC, could potentially turn the seals but very unlikely. i dont like using pressure bleeds personally as your forcing air into the fluid. but some of the cars iv worked on in the past have needed you to use these. so swings n round abouts i guess.

mine took ages to be fair. kept having to bleed the master cylinder on the 2 screws. as a rule of thumb always start the corner furthest away from the master cylinder. e.g. OSR then NSR, OSF,NSF if all else fails mayb pressure bleed it. but i dont know as to any special way with corrados, hopefully someone else can help you on that one. oh and open up the bias valve on the rear axle, think you have to let it hang.....someone correct if wrong. i left the connections loose until fluid dripped from them to avoid an air lock.