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g0ldf1ng3r

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Posts posted by g0ldf1ng3r

  2. Posted

    afternoon all 🙂

    right then time to get things moving on this, as im sure you will all be happy to hear

    Zak has calculated costs etc & is primed ready to order the parts.  it looks like they will be coming in at around about the estimated £84 delivered

    due to the number of looms it is a large outlay so he would be grateful if everyone could pay a £25 deposit upfront

    if you could pls send the paypal friends & family to [email protected]

    once sent if you could then put a confirmation on here i can keep a track of it

    hopefully that is ok with everyone

  6. Posted

    12 minutes ago, Dox said:

    Welcome, there are two modules because there are 2 different speeds that the spoiler lifts at, UK spec is the lower of the 2 speeds I believe?

    IIRC they are early or late model differences m8

    my 1990 16v raises at 45mph

    the 95 VR6 raises at 55mph

  8. Posted

    32 minutes ago, Mawrick said:

    Anyone know of any of the "premium" tyre brands still makes the original size for the Corrado VR6 (205/50/15) - alternative any suggestions on what other brands might be good alternative, must be good wet weather properties.

     

    Also would there be some other more available size that will fit the original speedline rims ?.

    the 205 fitment for the speedline is becoming a problem

    i have always ran bridgestone potenza's on my VR6 & were always preference on my other cars too - however some wise fool at bridgestone decided they didnt want to make in our size any longer

    i have a similar dilemma with choice of tyres for the modena's im putting on the VR - the staggered 215 & 225 width on a 16" i want give me hardly any choice at all

    to have front & rear matching there was really only the yokohama ad08r's but i am aware they are meant to be bad in the wet as are predominantly a track tyre.  however on a recent search nexen are making both sizes needed for the new wheels

    which bring me to my point........i run 205/45/17 on my supercharged mini & have last year moved to nexen fera su1 front & rear

    they are performing very well so far & the mini is a bit of an asbo beast.  they seem good in both wet & dry, dont seem to spin up much with the traction turned off & side wall seems good on turn in

    my friend also runs the nexen on her track car & all reports are they a very good all rounder, they had sun, rain & snow on the last day out lol

    i will be putting nexens on the modean's when they are ready

  11. Posted

    On 4/10/2022 at 10:45 AM, robhearne said:

    Thanks for the replies guys,  It seems like there's a great deal of trust in Stealth Racing, but they are quite far away from me and it would cost a fair amount just to trailer it up there for a second opinion.  As trust in the garage seems to play a big part in people's recommendations, I figure I'll let you guys know that it's at JMR racing.  I've used JMR before for suspension work (back in 2007) and I believe that John knows his stuff, but I get the impression that he's a bit of a perfectionist and always starts off by recommending the premium option.  I'm a perfectionist as well, but I'm not sure if I can justify the perfectionist price tag 😀

    It seems like maybe a top-end rebuild rather than a full rebuild is the way to go,

    as per as others are saying i would start with a top end rebuild & get the chains done.  it is possible to inspect the health of the bottom end by looking for the original honing marks in the bores

    FYI i had my top end & chains done at approx 155K with vince at stealth & the bottom end was judged to be pretty healthy

    also as per what other have said, there will be a number of other parts which would be wise to renew during the work; water pump, aux water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, temp sensors to name a few

    IIRC my work with stealth ended up being around £3.5k as we ended up chasing old failing parts for a short while but i did also add fancy stuff like 263 cams, BMC CDA & a remap

  12. Posted

    On 4/8/2022 at 5:45 PM, fla said:

    Just took mine off to clean and the seal has perished.  I've been experimenting with some thin walled silicone tube which fits in but its slightly too thick and wont allow the light to sit properly. Trimming it causes the edges to splay out and they dont do much sealing!

    Any other ideas? Mine are clear repeaters, not the orange ones

    Thanks

    Hasan

    new repeaters with seals are pennies on ebay m8

    couple of quid & no messing required

  21. Posted

    9 hours ago, James. said:

    Yeah, cheers I did that years ago. Soldered in a jumper cable between the aerial mast and the coax (VW in their infinite wisdom supplanted the amplified circuitry inside a piece of water permiable foam, which is why the reception is shocking at best) This is more of a wholesale replacement. But thanks for the heads up.

    Long term looking at going DAB, with what will look like a powered aerial setup. Lord only knows how I retro fit one of these. Maybe it’s time to make the change ?

    a long time ago, in my 1.4 SR nova i had a great powered antenna

    the antenna itself stuck onto the front windscreen behind the rear view mirror & then wired into the feed & the switchable live for power on key

    ive long thought about putting similar in the VR6 but i rarely listen to the radio or ipod in it.  however i have recently got the audio hardware as i want it

    i have looked at a USB bluetooth dongle which is properly plug & play to connect to the sony head unit in there at the moment as i could then connect my phone & use spotify - i guess that would be a simple way to achieve DAB too as could just play the stations through the phone

  24. Posted

    34 minutes ago, jenkiam said:

    nope, no issues apart from the fact the needle doesnt rise! I expected it to move into the middle of the gauge to indicate normal running.

    i wouldnt worry about it then m8

    & id hedge my bets it is an old stat as i say

    my 16v is the same, the stat is fine but the dash gauge always sits around 70

    the VR6 dash gauge however sits at 90 & i know it was replaced with a new stat when it had a head rebuild.  prior to that work the gauge would sit at 70

    ive been told that VW engineered the stats this way to reduce calls from general public about low temps

  25. Posted

    19 minutes ago, jenkiam said:

    My dash temp gauge refuses to go much above the 70 degree min temp, so i suspect that the coolant sensor is faulty. But, i cant seem to see where the bl**dy thing is under the bonnet! Anyone got a engine bay pic of the sensor to help this old fool out?!

     

    cheers

    Jenks

    it could well be that it just has a very old thermostat in it

    old stats would always sit at 70

    whereas a more modern stat is designed to sit at 90 by the engineers

    do you have any overheating issues?

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