g0ldf1ng3r

the scuttle cover that is in your 1st picture could be the issue, rather than the foliage seal I say this as I had an issue with the VR where someone had not fitted the scuttle cover you pictured correctly, such that the side of the cover closest to the wing was bent under the top of the cover. this in turn caused a tiny gulley which was allowing the rain water to run directly into the top of the foliage cage thing. the foliage cage seal was perfectly fine but as the cover side had been crushed when fitted the water wasn't even hitting the seal the scuttle cover side closest to the wing should be a flat vertical which comes down far enough to almost hide the foliage cover

good question from the OP :) has anyone got any advice for BMC's? or is it a similar case or remove & vac thanks

honestly m8 if you tackle it in an organised fashion & put all screws in tubs or envelopes & then next to their relevant parts it is pretty much step by step as mentioned to VAG-hag - if you haven't got one already make sure you spend the few £'s on a hose clip tool. getting the constant tension clips back on to the feed/return hoses at the bulk head is made 1000 times easier with one

happy to helps chaps - guide now sent to you both :)

those temps are normal for a VR m8, I get the same. normally the fans will kick in before water temps reaches 110 & bring it down a little, as per what the sensors & 3 stages of fans are meant to do :) also, FYI I had a new thermostat fitted about 10k ago when stealth did my engine work & new stats are engineered by VW to sit around 90 as standard on the dash gauge pls bear in mind the part I wrote about rad seal products if your rad is leaking

I have the one Kris did on here & I managed to find all but a couple of the images , very similar to the Canada one but more pics I believe. if you would like ive got it on word document if you want to PM your email addy m8. I found it invaluable as it shows where all the screws & bolts are located etc yes pls on the flap improvements m8 - I would find that very helpful PS don't loose sleep over the task in hand, patience & organisation makes it ok. FYI I used lots envelopes to put the screws of the various sections in, sealed them & labelled the front. takes time but made it so much easier to put it all back together

no probs m8 - happy to share the love of the info there are quite a few quirky things with our VR's but they are there for a reason mostly I really like the programmable intermittent wiper function for example & use it a lot :)

relax david they are meant to do that :) lol similar to the aux water pump - which is designed to run after engine switch off so as to circulate coolant round the system to aid cooling of the block if the temps sensors say it needs it. the VR block has lots of very small water channels for the coolant to flow through to aid removing the heat - IIRC this is why you should never use a product like rad seal as it blocks the said water channels if you read the definitive cooling guide on here I think that states at what temps each of the 3 stages of fans kick in - EDIT ha ha ha sorry guys only just realised this post was on the cooling guide thread lol

that sounds about right fraser the fans will only come on when required & for as long as required. the timings would be controlled by the temp sensors I believe & fans will only come on as & when necessary what else makes you think you have an issue? are you seeing odd temps?

with an engine like that in the workshop I would be doing the same as Adrian - good lad lol EDIT - though I would never own a frod! ;)

cracking news - well done fella fingers crossed Jim gets a similar result

just to check chris, have you got a good guide with pictures?

ha ha ha I remember that point in your photo very well m8 & feeling the same! I found one of the hardest bits was to get the drivers side bulk head nut back on the bolt due to the it being in such a tricky place to get your hand in TBH when I changed the radiator in the VR I recall looking at it after the first day, when it was all apart, & thinking 'oh dear, this is going to end up on a trailer to the mechanic' lol fortunately that didn't transpire BUT I may have to face that again so as to change my rad fans which seem to have gotten noisey recently

lol indeed Jim if you take your time its not too bad a job really though. I think the thought of it was worse than actually doing it

awesome link thanks stuart though I changed the valver matrix last summer I could do with taking it out again to refurb the air box

of course you may. I got them via thursdave on here, he works at a VW. below is a copy of the info he sent me on them "Speedline Centre caps - are these for your VR6? If so, bizzarely, VW are showing 4 in stock. 535601149A Z31 RRP: £8.22 each, cost to you £7.10 each" I had been very kindly donated the ones with broken tabs but IIRC im sure there was one that could be rescued & used. I am more than happy to pass it on to you if you need it should VW no longer have any. FYI I ordered them in sept last year

try VW m8 I managed to get 4 brand new ones from them a couple of months ago & they were cheaper than used ones on ebay EDIT - if you struggle I have a couple with broken tabs which may be able to be rescued so could send you one

I guess at those kind of prices I should really get the zender over spoiler on ebay - apparently $240 new http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/project-car/0408ec-volkswagen-corrado-slc-supercharger-stage-2/ so lets say £850 according to his prices oh & whilst I am at it I may as well try the impossibly rare Kamei skirt bodykit I have in full - reckon that has to be £1500 or more if I split it EDIT - actually, aft a quick look it could seem that the Kamei kit isn't too far off that judging by the only 1 I can find on US ebay but for a BMW E30 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bmw-e30-Kamei-body-kit-/111879366423?hash=item1a0c87a717:g:8tYAAOSwZG9WlLb9&vxp=mtr

ha ha ha ooo yes pls - buy only if you have a truck as at those prices I would have the lot ;) seriously though, it makes me happy ive got a spare set of genuine hella fog lenses & a lovely shiny polished inlet mani!!

ha ha brilliant jim! I wonder what this guys reply will be like lol

£130 for a battered old inlet manifold! £275 for a front bumper with indicators & fogs where is he dreaming these prices

my god I need to move into breaking if he is selling junk at those prices £170 for a rado heater control - WTF!!

blimey, blast from the past nice to see you coxy

lol its ok Dox - caught a couple of us out

yay im not the only one then! thanks easypops & VAGhag lol