g0ldf1ng3r

that is the classic symptom of the immobiliser collar not accepting the chip in the key or not verifying the chip to the ECU the steps it goes through are kind of....engine start, immobiliser collar send signal to key, key chip responds, if signals match an OK sent from collar to ECU to allow engine to run, if signals do not match a not OK is sent from collar to ECU to kill engine due to security issue which then makes sense why an immobiliser deleted ECU would allow the car to continue to run - as it is ignoring the signal sent from the immobiliser collar requesting to kill the engine

that would be disconnecting the yellow connectors then Dox :)

ho probs, good luck & keep us posted on how you get on

thread - http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?92783-Remap reason 1 - part of the reason stealth cost what they do for remaps is due to it needing to be done whilst the car is on the rollers. from what I remember the VR has an 'open' mapping program which can be manipulated whilst the engine runs on the rollers. thus it is the skill & knowledge & experience of the person doing the map reason 2 (a continuation of 1) - the VR6 has a WORM chip in it (Write Once Read Many) so the original one needs hoiking off the motherboard and a rewritable one put in it's place, then a map can be written to it as many times as you like on the dyno. To stop rival companies copying it, Vince et al use a special chip socked with encryption in it. He also has to use an ECU emulator or something when mapping, so it's a lot of wires and boxes all over the scuttle area! Probably why an older style maps are little more expensive. With the later cars like the MK5 R32 and GTI etc, they can be mapped up the OBD2 port (which is what Revo et al do) so no need to open the ECU With the newer stuff it's more about hacking into the software thus if you put a ebay special superchip in it there it has not been (potentially) done on a live car and therefore the performance could be detrimental Plus I am a tad confused how your car would start when it has an immobiliser but the test ECU had an immobiliser delete - unless it is bypassing the working immobiliser unit somehow I am pretty confident all 95 rado's have coded keys & chip collars could it be worth asking an auto electrician who specialises in immobilisers to take a look?

I have fitted 3 KUR2Y looms now & have never had an issue with them not functioning as desired after install

Ouch, sorry to read this david :( I would probably try to avoid the superchip m8 - for reasons as per the remap thread info what are the symptoms? is it starting, runs for a second or 2 & then cut out? if it does the above it could be worth checking the immobiliser collar around the ignition barrel reason I say that is when I changed my ignition barrel I was told the keys were not chipped but they are thus when I started the car with the new key it would fire up, run for a couple of seconds & then cut out as such if your collar or key chip has some kind of issue it could do the same might be worth a try

no problem by all means drop me a PM if you struggle or have any questions

think so as mine went a few months ago - hot sure if the mechanic replaced with genuine or OEM though

as with all coilovers, the lower you go the less travel the setup has & thus the harsher it gets I have mine set at a 2 finger gap between tyre & wheel arch all round & it feels nice but still requires dodging to find roads by the pot holes we drive on ;) lol I also found that once I had renewed the rear beam bushes & front wishbone bushes the ride felt much more cushioned

hello there make yourself at home nice motor - KWV1's are indeed around the £900 price, I also have them on my VR & love them to bits :D

sounds like you have a failed relay in the 'dodgy' loom you mention couple of £'s to fix FYI normally on an uprated loom with 2 relays if one goes you either loose main beam or dipped beam - should be an easy fix potentially however, sounds like you have a better loom to replace it with as it has 3 relays - normally one for each side dipped beam & then one for main beam uprated looms don't normally connect up to fogs. possibly the wire off each genuine connector is to loop it back into the factory loom so as the lights work off the dash switch check out my build thread as that may help, it has lots of pics of me fitting a loom made by KUR2Y on here http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?44751-g0ldf1ng3r-s-VR-amp-1-8-16V-the-valver-has-heat!-amp-now-pokey-lights-too!/page25

I too found tyres to not last very long until bridgestone decided to reintroduce the 15" tyre they withdrew tyres in a 15", or at least some of them, for a number of months at the time I had recently purchased my VR thus I used avons for a year or so - utter poop, crap in dry, awful in wet & only got about 5-6K miles out of a front set I had always used bridgestones on my valver, the first time I owned it, & my nova SR - the SO2's & SO3's thus I was over the moon when bridgestone reintroduced the RE002 in a 15" the current set, as mentioned, has just tipped the 15K miles & the previous set around 13K

this is how the hoses present & cross over

I would say no they are the wrong way round on a VR the feed hose comes from the left had side of the block, as per Dox pic EDIT - although the matrix is essentially a radiator flow direction shouldn't matter BUT the valeo matrix I recently fitted definitely had an arrow showing flow direction - so it must matter somehow

ahhh I didn't know that Wullie - thanks lol

that it does but best to check m8 :)

whoa boys what car is the OP? it looks like a valver NOT a VR reason I say is that the matrix feed & return hoses come from different places on the 16v to the VR the VR has the feed hose cross over the return hose as per Dox picture on the valver the feed hose comes directly from the right hand side of the engine block & as such the hoses do not cross like they do on the VR I know this as I have recently replaced the matrix on my valver that said - the hose in the OP's pic looks like it needs replacing

personally I would always go with bridgestone I am currently on just over 15000 miles on the RE002's I have on the front, they are about to need replacing I get mine from event tyres online as they are priced extremely well & fit at your desired location. Currently at £71.10 all in if you buy 2 the bridgestones not only wear extremely well, they perform fantastically & throughout all of the wear cycle, are superb in the dry & virtually as good in the wet any other tyre I have tried is just poor in comparison really

Legend! thank you Kev (hope you are keeping well by the way) I do love your explanations as you include all the detail :D that was kinda what I thought, new ones is altering the software whereas older is more in depth work (in synopsis lol) thanks for the tip about the final drive - it is something I keep lingering in the back of my mind & if I ever have to have the gearbox rebuilt I will get one put in

ahhh I was waiting for your experienced advice/input Kev - thank you! was I correct in the bit about open & static mapping differences? (just out of personal interest) with 263's & a BMC I got pretty much bang on 10% gain after Vince's map however that was with a very ageing, probably original, exhaust & CAT if money would have allowed I would have waited until I got my 2.5" straight through with hi flow CAT until the remap but I don't think it would have crept the power up by too much more (hence why ive not bothered with another map now the longlife exhaust is a rocking) it is worth a mention that the difference between my VR & the gf's old standard storm in terms of feel under foot, delivery of power, crispness of throttle response is night & day! my VR now has that 'whaa, whaa' rapid kinda rev'ing like a motor bike :D

Kudos Jim Personally, in the VR, I think it is the original 12v VR lump that is the heart & soul of the car despite its flaws

indeed we do m8 I could see the potential for tears when it was driving away if you sold up lol

mine was Stealth Racing in Banbury - think they are £400 notes all in

interesting Ian do you know if there are any curve images of a standard VR vs a remapped standard VR? be interesting to see

don't do it m8, it is not worth skimping on you will likely end up with a poor power curve & flat delivery part of the benefit of a stealth map is the fact that Vince is one of the best people in the country for mapping our VR's. I believe they are rather tricky & not like more modern cars in terms of mapping part of the reason stealth cost what they do for remaps is due to it needing to be done whilst the car is on the rollers. from what I remember the VR has an 'open' mapping program which can be manipulated whilst the engine runs on the rollers. thus it is the skill & knowledge & experience of the person doing the map I also believe this is the reason the VR manual states to not apply any pressure on accelerator when starting up, as the ECU takes care of choke & fuel trimming etc rather than a 'closed' map, such as on a Mk5 golf, where the mapping program is static & as such the new map is uploaded to the car whilst NOT on the rollers & I believe can not be then tweaked as much the former in all honesty m8 I don't think you will really see or feel the benefit of your hard earnt £'s remapping a standard setup. yes you may get a slightly better power delivery as the VW map is kinda lumpy when you see the output but how much of that you will feel under your right foot I am unsure Vince is a nice guy m8, you could give him a ring & post the question to him. I am confident he will give you a sensible honest answer. by all means mention me if you like, im sure he will remember me as he had to put a lot of work into my VR & his right hand man was the one who found my valver on ebay & told me about it, which as you know I then brought it back lol akacheesy - I can definitely confirm the VR is mappable as I have had mine done & got the power curves to show for it. I would imagine the people you spoke to gave you that answer as they can only do 'static' mapping