corradovr6sc

I have mounted it directly behind the plastic grille (has the slots cut out), infront of the radiator. My hoses are straight. Should the cooler (radiator) get hot?-I have felt it and it always feels cold. I have taken a hose off to make sure oil is flowing into the cooler and that seems ok. :?

I fitted a mocal 13 row cooler to my vr about a month ago but it doesn't seem to be working properly. The oil temps still rose to 140 degrees on the track. I thought the thermostat on the sandwich plate may have been faulty so I swapped it for a new s-plate yet the temps still seem to rise and the car still runs at 100+ degrees. Does anybody know any likely causes of the problem? Is it possible to have an air lock which prevents the oil circulating? What temps should I be seeing if the oil cooler is functioning properly? :( Thanks Ben

German style plates you can get from volks-speed. Tel no. 0118 973 7447. Used to be £40 plus £2 p&p. New genuine vw leads are £120 and are red. Magnicor are £90 and blue but don't fit in the slots very easily- insolation too thick. also Blue igniter- you can guess the colour. You can buy some cheap ones from vw quantum brand. Not sure what colur they are. Can't think of any more.

Yes you can get it from vw. Think you have to pull the cable through the hole in the firewall to put the new clip on. Just have to make sure there is enough tension in the cable to pull both bonnet releases back- worth checking that they move sufficiently and the cable feels nice and springy before you shut the bonnet. Also check that the brass nut in the bell-shaped clamp is tight enough to prevent the cable from slipping. Good luck!

No it is replaceable. I bought a few because I kept breaking them. Is it the clip off the release hand with two barbs on it? When this happened to me I took the handle off so the cable was free and pulled on it hard with some pliers whilst someone pulled upwards on the bonnet.

I had a similar problem. The cable is held tight by a nut inside a bell-shaped clamp. If the nut hasn't been tightened enough the cable will slip and there will be insufficient tension to pull the bonnet stays open. Think I pulled at the cable and got someoneelse to pull the bonnet upwards or you could try this from the CorradoClub USA website: How to open a stuck hood without removing the grill Lay down directly under the front of the hood and look up. You'll need a long screwdriver or a stiff thin rod. The cable mechanism connects to a metal rod with an L-shape bend where it engages the bullet-shaped latch on the hood. Look up and towards the inside of the fender to find it. It's a goldish cad-plated rod. What you're trying to do is to get your screwdriver behind that rod and pull out, away from the fender, and it will disengage from the hood latch. It won't damage anything and is easy to do in a pinch.

I don't recommend pagid. Everyone recommended pagid pads with zimmerman discs but after a while the discs warped and the pads hardened and the brakes barely worked. I use ferodo from halfords with oe discs.

I've got koni/hr suspension. I remember when I fitted them that I had to enlarge the metal disks on the rear which sit inbetween the top mounts so the thread on the damper would fit through. Also I have cut out the plastic at the bottom of the rear speakers so I can adjust the dampers without having to remove the speaker shelves, just the speakers themselves.

The chain guides wear out which slackens the chain and throws the cam timing out.

One of the vr6 weak points is the head gasket. Has this been changed or has the cylinder head been reconditioned? Think the gti and vr6 have the same 2.8 units. Crunching into reverse is a vw trait. They'll get it right one day. Throttle cable can be adjusted. Just a matter of moving the clip along to make sure there is no cable slack.

Black VW Oem (now red) ht leads are £120 Blue igniter/magnicor are ~£90 but don't fit in the grooves Both are v. good quality but I'm using vw leads because of fitment issues with the other makes.

I've never been in a g60 but I know the vr6 is a cracking car. The engine is heavier but the track and camber angles etc. have been altered to cope with the extra weight and the handling is fantastic with the correct suspension. You can tune the vr6 and many have done so without problems. Don't see why the engine would suddenly pack up if I decided to go for a bigger throttle body, rechip or vsr. I went down the supercharged route and I can't say I've had any problems. Yes fuel economy is not as good (averages 25-27 but 30mpg on the motorway) but what do you expect. Same as any other car with similar levels of performance. I don't think the extra power has affected drivability and the belt rarely slips. Because the power is progressive there is no sudden surge which would normally have the front wheels fighting for grip and it is still very pliable on road and track. All for 2k (not 4k). It really is a great modification (more power) and better value than trying to improve the breathing with a vsr and the like. Oh and supercharged corrado vr6s are rarer than g60s!

Black smoke is fuel.-Running rich momentarily. Blue smoke is also caused by the crankcase breather. Crankcase gases are burnt off through the intake producing smoke.

I have the z-eng kit on my rado. Done 18k on the charger with no problems. The belt doesn't slip in good weather. Only tends to slip when there is a bit of moisture around. Not a big issue really. Standard clutch is ok and I've left the brakes standard. Brakes hold up ok with dot 5 fluid and braided hoses. Think the z-kit is now retailing at 2k and 2.5k for the vf kit plus vat.

What colour is the smoke? Blue, black white?

I 've put mine into the hole in the chassis rail below where the air box used to be. A bit smelly when I start up but afterwards I can't smell anything. Maybe extend it through the carbon canister hole and zip tie it low down to the front subframe.

Just come back from the Ring in my Corrado (koni/hr suspension, standard brakes). Handles brilliantly and its so forgiving and Iam sure it could handle even better with further modifications. The front end is a bit heavy on the twisty bits but otherwise it is very well balanced. Perhaps the ultimate Corrado would be a tuned 1.8t with the plus suspension off the vr6 and big brakes.

My damper has blown twice. Seems to backfire but hasn't done it for a while. Check all vacuum connections are tight. I've actually removed my carbon canister completely and capped of the vacuum line to the inlet manifold and vented the fuel line to air. Runs ok and passes mot.

Not sure whether copper is better than aluminium but I think gsf or europarts sells them for £80. Cheaper than £200 from VW. You have to take the front end off to replace it-bump and slam panel. Whilst you have got the front end off change the oil seals on the oil cooler, two small coolant hoses and thermostat if they haven't been done. Saves hastle later on.

I got about 22 mpg when my lambda sensor went. Might be worth changing it. I get over 22 combined (according to the mfa) with my supercharged vr6. Cruising on the motorway at 80-90 I was getting 28-9.