corradovr6sc

Does anybody know the colour for the code LC 6P?

My car had the same symptoms (flatspot and stutter) when the cam sensor was on the way out but drove ok when the maf failed but the ran very rich.

I paid £340 for my magnex excluding fitting. It's slighty louder than the original system as it deletes the silencer between the cat and the larger middle silencer. It does seem to free up the engine as it's larger than standard bore. The only issue with mine is that it sometimes knocks against the jackingpoint on the leftside of the backbox (think it needs moving over slighty). I had one on a mrk2 16v and it was v. boomy but it sounds nice on the vr6.

Whereabouts are you? I've got vag-com if you want to check fo fault codes.

There are 2 13 mm bolts holding the front subframe on if you remove the 4 large 17mm bolts. Probably best to replace the large ones after you've removed the bumper or put an axle stand under the subframe.

I've got a hilux 2.4D 2wd and it has two separate seats but you can get one with a crew cab. It really is tough and reliable unlike corrados!

diy but have to remove inlet manifold. There are two types but you must have the early type metal rocker cover held in by bolts and flat gasket and replace any other gaskets you have to remove.

Have you read the buying guide above? Everything there is to know is contained within.

Here's a pic hopefully.

To fit a merc (eaton) charger would be a bit of a pain. The problem is a lack of space-its a large rectangular unit, not as compact as a centrifugal supercharger which fits conveniently in place of the standard airbox. It has been done on a vr6 by relocating the throttle body and using some complicated brackets and and very long alternator belt. A better location would be in place of the alternator and relocate the alternator. It's also been transplanted into g60s. Positive-displacement blowers like the eaton don't flow well at high revs and centrifugal blowers are more efficient. Mercs use them because they fit in the middle of the V as well as for their reliability.

Perhaps. Not sure on reliability, fuel economy etc. Turbo installation would cost more because of the extra plumbing, head needs to come off, lower compression, racing bolts, gasket etc. whilst the supercharger bolts straight on without internal mods- Z-kit doesn't even have oil lines.

Think turbo kits are more popular in the US and more reasonably priced such as the atp kit which produces 250hp for about £2000 and 300hp for £2500.

Yes, I was surprised too especially as the rest of the engine is standard. The car has done 115k miles. As a comparison, Mark's (anorak) car produced 256hp with the same kit (90k miles).

Yes it is quite a bit faster than standard and a mod I would recommend. My z-eng kit makes 274hp on 6 psi and I've done 20k miles on the charger without any problems. More power and cheaper than improving the breathing with head work, a vsr, cams etc. Is it £2000 for a vortech kit? If so, it is cheaper than the UK price (for the vf-eng kit) but the z-kit is now retailing for £2k.

my clutch never slips on 6psi. Got a luk clutch which is a bit juddery when cold but doesn't slip.

Chris VR6nos: I was concerned about fuel exploding in the exhaust and damaging the cat so I bought a magnex de-cat pipe and I don't really want to buy a new cat at the silly price VW charge. £90 for the bypass, £300 for a new cat so it wasn't a difficult choice.

Try greenlight. Corrados have a high flow cat and there's little to be gained with a cat bypass on a standard engine but they will prolong the life of the cat and save a small fortune in the long run.

It's actually LC5M moonlight blue like mine.

I have replaced this hoses and the part no. is written on it: 1H0 121 157H

I did a temporary repair on this hose using halfords repair tape which worked very well.

it' s a race engine! :D

Sounds like slack in the chain as they can stretch too. A mate replaced both his upper and lower tensioners but used the old chains but the cam timing was still out. Probably best to replace the lot as its not a job you want to do twice.

The three electrical plugs are senders (measure coolant temp etc. on the mfa/guages) and are colour coded and are held on by clips and are sealed against the thermostat housing with rubber o-rings. The thermostat housing is attached to the cylinderhead with three quite long hex-bolts and is sealed with a rubber o-ring. If you are changing the thermostat there is another rubber o-ring and a round o-ring for both ends of the plastic pipe. It's possible that the thermostat housing is cracked and may require replacement but it's made of 2 or 3 separate pieces so you don't have to buy the complete housing. Not too sure on prices. O-rings are a couple of quid, thermostat is about £20, plastic parts probably £20-30 each.

how can you tell when the chain tensioner is on the way out- excessive chain rattle? Is it the guides that go? I've seen a vr6 with 90k and the upper tensioner was scoured (rivets were still intact) and the plastic guide was partially worn. It didn't seem too bad considering the mileage- is this typical or can wear vary?

the radiator- many vr6s spring leaks because of the higher temps/pressures, thermostat housing is plastic and can crack due to heat, heater matrix-check for water in the footwell, after-run pump, drain screw on the water transfer pipe?