corradovr6sc

When you take the rocker cover off check that both cams are aligned and the condition of the upper chain guide. Replace this part if it is worn and possibly change the chain if the cam timing is still out as they do stretch over time.

I don't know how the weight of an S3 compares with and Audi TT but I lined up against an 225bhp TT out of a roundabout and went sailing past by the time I reached third (standard apart from induction kit and cat-bypass). The power of the vr6 is stealthy.

brake fluid could be low or more likely a dodgy sensor (replace cap/built in sensor on brake fluid reservoir)

In addition to keeping the engine running/opening the bonnet, turn the heater inside the car onto full blast hot and you'll see the water/oil temps drop dramatically.

Don't corrados have a light or buzzer to warn of a low brake fluid level?

I have bled my oil cooler-turned it the right way up and released one of the hoses with the engine running and air hissed out with loads of oil. But it still doesn't get hot so it isn't working. Oil is present in both hoses so I reckon the cooler might be blocked/clogged up. Should it be possible to blow through the cooler? What is the best substance to flush the cooler out- radiator flush or something similar?

how much power did the supercharged golf vr6 which attended have?

What is at risk if the oil temp rises over 145C? I wouldn't be too worried, I have seen 154C (hence fitting an oil cooler) and everything is still holding together. Can't fully synthetic oil handle these high temps without degrading?

What differences do anti-roll bars make to the handling? Can the standard anti-roll bar be improved upon? Does a rear anti-roll bar make much difference?

My cooler is only ziptied on so I can loosen it and turn it upright before bleeding. Before I installed the oil cooler I filled it with oil to prevent airlocks but it mustn't have worked. Thanks for your suggestions, I'll give it a go.

The cooler has just the two opening for the hoses, nothing else. I want to make sure the cooler is not bocked. Maybe firstly remove and block a hose, start the engine and see if oil is going through the cooler then reattach the other hose loosely to bleed the air.

I haven't got a clue. how would I bleed it if I have an airlock? Take a hose off, run the engine then put it back on after making sure oil is passing through the cooler?

I didn't have instructions with my kit but it seemed staight forwrd enough: block, heat exchanger, sandwichplate, threaded extension, hoses, cooler. Don't suppose it matters which hose goes into which side of the cooler as long as it completes a circuit. My cooler is facing downwards so the hose connections are at the bottom. Is this installed correctly?

Can't think what the other part is. Has anybody got a mocal oil cooler kit and fitted it themselves or knows the complete contents of the kit. Is it: thermostatic sandwichplate threaded extension 2 hoses and fittings 13 row oil cooler mounting brackets I have these parts and my cooler doesn't work (might not work for another reason) but have I got the correct parts? Am I missing anything?

When I needed a new aux pump vw told me they could sell me a reconditioned one for £30 but didn't have any in stock so I ended up buying new so it's worth asking. Try Ford. Might be cheaper.

how about oil from the crankcase breather getting on the maf and fouling up the signal?

I was recommended h@r springs as they are made specifically for the vr6 to handle the extra engine weight whilst eibachs were for all corrados including the lighter 4 cylinder models. Maybe this is why h@r springs suit the vr6 better.

Sounds a bit expensive. The installation kit (sandwich plate, hoses, brackets) is about £70 and the cooler (13 row) is about £65 = £135. What else is there?

The top hose is clamped to a black plastic 90 degree pipe which is bolted to the radiator. The fan switch (thermostat) is directly below this, about half way down the radiator and has an electrical connection into it. Don't think the fan should come on at 90. Mine comes on at 100+ unless it has been replaced for a lower temp thermostat. I think the auxillary water pump runs all the time when the ignition is on and runs permanently after 108 degrees (not too sure on this). If the speed of this pump varies you could have an airlock as it might be spinning in air. When I changed my coolant I got the coolant up to operating temperature and unscrewed the cap on the expansion tank to release any airlocks.

Is the leak from the rad thermostat or the top rad hose? Vr6s commonly leak from the sump gasket. Also check the oil cooler seals, rockercover gasket, even possibly the head gasket.

Use a corrado vr6 front subframe and a golf/corrado vr6 rear subframe with the rear engine mount cut down. Best to use the plus suspension, wishbones driveshafts and hubs of a vr6 (5 stud).

I was very surprised with the outcome as the engine is standard apart from the Z-Eng kit of course. Didn't expect to see more than 260 and would still have been pleased if it was less than that. BTW is there a list of all the results?

Thanks for the replies. I cannot think what it can be. It is installed correctly. I'm going to have to do more testing and explore the possibilities.

I swapped my original thermostatic sandwich plate for a new 90 degree item but I have yet to examine both hoses and check for blockages. Should you be able to blow through the cooler?

I'll check both hoses. Is it possible to get an air lock in the hoses or cooler? . The only other thing I can think of is that the cooler was filled with oil then left for about a year before I fitted it. Could it have become sludged up?