eugopnosaj

If my beetle was on the road I'd take that, really kick up the pigeons, its Germany and Japan's love child - Baja bug with a scooby lump in the back :lol:

Would it not be the case of just someone redrawing it in 3D? I use Rhino and can export directly to a 3D printer, however I do not have said printer to run test pieces. I can model something up if perhaps myself, David and his friend can collaborate and run some test pieces?

Its bolt on, didn't do any modifications at all, I'm not sure whether the non VR6 engines use the same compressor, the VR6's use the same bracket though which is why i went down that route. Edit: If I remember when I get home I'll get you a part number from mine.

Not sure what the difference is with a Sanden compressor however the compressor from a MK3 or MK4 golf (VR6 or R32) will fit, I've got a MK4 R32 compressor on mine, albeit not plumbed in yet. In reality it all depends how far you're willing to go work wise, you can make anything fit with the right about of fettling! ;)

What are your thoughts on the stuff, or similar liquid metal/epoxies. I have done some welding on my classic beetle and although solid since I was welding upside down there are some pinprick holes where the weld has dripped, if that makes sense. I don't need the JB weld to provide any strength I merely want it to cover up the holes and prevent water or dirt ingress. Any ideas/suggestions/good idea/bad idea etc?

Haha :lol:

Not sure if this is a chuftie:- Was on the M1 coming back from seeing some family and I pulled off of the slip road onto the motorway. A young lad in a MK2 (reasonably tidy) quickly pulled up behind me, sat quite close for a bit then over took me

We tried to do a MK/bucks based one a few years ago...happened once! VR6 Milton Keynes

1992 2.0 16v My green Valver is back up for sale, tried this a couple of years ago, had a bit of interest but mostly tyre kickers and a guy who came and went out for a drive but hadn't bothered to check his insurance... Anyway with the prospect of my subaru-baja build and owning the VR i need the funds and its time for Val to go to a new home - she has to sell this time no exceptions. I won't bore you all with too many details as theres various bits of history on the forum but the basics are: I have owned my valver since 2009. I bought her as a non-runner where she was blowing across 2 cylinders with a suspect failed HG. She came with a second valver with a good low mileage engine (86k) and a supposedly good head. A few weeks later I swapped the head over, carried out some other works and got her back on the road after she'd been unloved for around 2 years by her former owner. In all the time she was on the road she never missed a beat until 2011, 2 weeks after a new mot, the replacement head went so off the road she came. Whilst getting the head skimmed and repaired (I have all the receipts to prove) I saw a VR6 for sale which I just couldn't pass up so a lot of money and a trip to Mansfield and I had myself my 2nd Corrado. Unfortunately this meant that the 16v never fully went back on the road after the head had been repaired. I've used it on and off when the VR has needed work but only for a few days at a time. Fresh 12 month MOT, a few advisories but nothing major - has had a brake overhaul and new waterpump, cambelt was done around 150k miles. All electrics work, including the spoiler which raises and lowers at the correct speeds, all windows close on the central locking. The ABS is fully functional and the sunroof slides and tilts without and problems. The paint is showing its age, she is 21 years old and has a few rust patches. The worst part is where someone keyed the car on the passengers door and the previous owner tried painting over it however the lacquer has now cracked and could do with touching up. Mechanically the car is sound. I've been as honest as I can but its worth coming and checking out the car as its only the paintwork that lets her down Unfortunately there was only the service book that came with the car so I have started my own, there are also some spares including a set of hydraulic tappets, she's a bit noisy. She comes on standard suspension but is fitted with a Momo steering wheel, KR inlet and exhaust cams, a Supersprint stainless steel exhaust, uprated headlights, Kenwood front speakers and tweeters. There is a Hawk 280 aftermarket alarm (needs a bit of fettling as the siren has died - i will deal with this before the sale) and immobiliser with also a 2 stage Selca I'm 3.22 immobiliser on a push fob (fuel and electric cut off, comes with 2 keys; the master and the standard fob). There are 2 alarm fobs, I do have a brand new second key however I never got around to getting it cut. Viewings are welcome in Milton Keynes, the car can be heard and seen running and if you're insured we can go out for a spin. I have more photos online or can send any across to people, let me know, thanks. Just to add its also on retrorides and eBay - want to maximise my advertising haha! List Date: 5/11/2015 For more info, click here to view the original listing: 1992 2.0 16v -------------------------------------- On Sale For: ?800.00 -------------------------------------- Mobile friendly version: 1992 2.0 16v Go Mobile: Download the free Panjo iOS app now!

Ok thanks, well at least its not a total bust. I guess I'll stick it in for an MOT and go from there.

Ok guys, I tried selling my valver last year but to no avail, but unfortunately the MOT has run out (ran out in May) the last time I used it was January last year and is just sat on my dads drive unloved at the moment. She's a great little runner mechanically, slightly noisy tappets but still drives like it should. Mileage is around 174k with the head only having done about 90k, fitted with KR cams and supersprint stainless steel exhaust system. I put her back to running on the standard suspension as I wanted the Konis for something else. Now I'm pretty sure on any other day she'd sell apart from the paintwork and a few rust patches which are letting her down and lead me to believe she might never sell....this is where I want your guys opinions, looking at the paintwork (not my fault the PO did a shoddy respray) and the rust areas what do you think the chances are of her selling? (for a reasonable amount, nothing stupid like a few hundred quid) or would I be better off breaking it for parts? The interior is in good condition and running gear is fine. Please see photos!

Are these visors a suitable direct swap? I recovered my rare :lol: non-sunroof headlining last year in a good quality black velour type material (was leftover at work) however my interior light and visors still being grey are a bit annoying, wasn't sure about the durability of spraying?

Thanks unfortunately that's the procedure I normally follow so already tried all that. Both top and bottom hoses were soft and I always squeeze them both with the cap off to prevent/remove air locks. Thats what i was thinking re the speed at which it got warm, it doesn't sound good to me...any other opinions? How quickly would the oil start to get milky fearing the worst....

Bit of a long one but bear with me!! Ok guys got a question, how long roughly does it take your VR (standard with no engine mods) to get up to temperature or at least the gauge start to move, say to 70 degrees? I broke down a just over a week ago on the M1, boiled all the water in the tank, further inspection found a tear/split in the return hose from the rear of the block back to the heater matrix. Now I'll hold my hand up and say I didn't notice any drastic change in the gauge and the water warning light didn't come on until I'd pulled over. I must have been driving for about 30 mins or so, noticed a plume of smoke in my side mirrors whilst initially thinking it wasn't me changing lanes confirmed it was and within a few minutes I'd pulled off at JCT 9, steam/smoke coming out from around the bonnet my worst fears thinking it was a fire. Lucky upon opening it realised it wasn't and was only water but that stopped my journey to London! This Saturday, £26 later (not forgetting the 2 1/2 hour wait and tow home last friday!!) and a replacement hose from heritage and we're as good as new (well you get the idea). Started her up with new antifreeze and left to get to temperature. Unfortunately found that my coil pack has and crack it in and was arcing but that's a different story!! Well she got to temperature within a time I was happy with, no leaks and all seemed good. Let her cool down and forgot about it, the next day sunday we were going out so I went to pick my brother up and probably within about 5/10 minutes it'd reached 70 degrees, now time not experienced the car warm up that quickly. The temperature continued to climb so i decided to 'drive' it for a bit to see if it'd cool down as it was now around 85ish. By the time I'd had a drive and got to my destination which was only about 20 mins it was maybe 95? Bearing mind it's not exactly warm outside... On the way home (after not using the car for about 2 1/2 hours) it reached over 70 within 5 minutes, an additional 5 or so minutes later and it was at 80.... This might be normal but my experience with the VR is that it doesn't warm up that quickly...I thought I'd turned the engine off quick enough not to have done any damage to the head. Having checked the oil there is no gunk in there and I cannot immediately see any gases in the water, nor any white smoke as I drive... I need to go on a long drive to see what happens I guess but wanted to get your thoughts? Thanks in advance!

gear knob and boot lock SOLD Peacedub, they can be repairable, part of the plastic which holds the clip in place for one of the directional bowden cables has come off, don't ask where it is its looong gone. It worked on all settings i only took it out to replace for climatronic. I can do them both for £52 posted, i have reduced the cost of the heater controls due to the damage, let me know. Thanks

No worries will sort it when I get home from work mate.

Bump, heater controls back up for sale, turns out the missing clip was caused by damage to the controls it seems £35 including postage.

I believe the stuff they sell from VW is just the foam membrane now anyways. I used foam on the VR and hasn't leaked yet :/

Sorry mate I haven't got any engine side loom.

Hey mate, when are you doing a second batch as I need 2 pairs? Thanks.

Heating controls sold, box and motor SOLD It won't let me edit the first post as it says its too long!

I've got some loom, not sure what is left but I'll have a look for you.

Clips are intact but its not leather unfortunately.

Heater box and controls are approx £15 delivered so call it £55, Stuart asked first so he gets first refusal. Jim, the ABS ECU part number is different from cars with EDL, which I believe was standard on the VR but I'm not sure, the part number for this is 535907379F, if you remove the screws to the plastic cover in the passengers footwell on the A pillar you will find the ECU, double check the part number. If its good £17 inc p + p as its quite weighty and would want to protect it.

Heater box and controls are approx £15 delivered so call it £55, Stuart asked first so he gets first refusal. Jim, the ABS ECU part number is different from cars with EDL, which I believe was standard on the VR but I'm not sure, the part number for this is 535907379F, if you remove the screws to the plastic cover in the passengers footwell on the A pillar you will find the ECU, double check the part number. If its good £17 inc p + p as its quite weighty and would want to protect it.