hodaz

Good work. The beige will look great, I remember the original build thread off Edition, and really impressed. My Mrs says she wants your dog :lol:

You need to take it to a garage who knows what there doing and get the wiring put back in ASAP. Lets just hope that having the stage 1 fan wired in permanantely and the engine running hot hasnt done any long term damage :(

You want to contact ACR based in near Croft Circuit in Durham, will be a lot lot cheaper than PSI, there work is perfect too. Would basically do a full overhaul to your own spec. Have a look at this for an example of their work http://www.section-5.net/showthread.php?t=2941 I would definately want a Corrado over an R32 but I have to say though if I had that much money I think I'd just buy a mint low mileage Storm for around 5k and add a few tasty extra's.

A friend is selling some Mk2 Golf Jamex coilovers for pennies, there only a few months old. Just wondering will these fit my Corrado (94 VR6)? Had a look on ebay and they do list them as the same part number. Thanks Oh and I know the ebay special coilovers aren't the best but my car is still running on original 15yr old shocks and 10yr old lowering springs so they are long past their best and I cant afford anything better at the min :(

Easy way to check if its the fuel pump os take the cover off inside the boot then pull of the electrical connector and see if the noise is still there when ignition is on. Fuel pump would normally be a whine more than a buzz.

My 2p would be Lambda Probe issues, well worth replacing as there only circa £80 from ECP for an OE Bosch one. A knackered Lambda will make the car run very rich which would explain the bad MPG and lumpy/slow running issues, then by disconnecting the MAF your making the ECU learn to run without it, so its probably cutting petrol and providing more air to compensate. When I read the instructions that came with the new Lambda they are actually supossed to be changed every 60k, I'm sure mine was the original 15 year/150k old one as when I took it out was all sooted up. Leaving the MAF connected is a bad idea though, must be costing you a fortune in petrol.

Just keep changing the plugs, its an old car with high miles things like this happen, just think of it as "character" :D Save the pennies for 24v power.

My Bosch one from ECP didnt need a different sender,

Generally pulling to one side under braking is track rod end related.

When I paint wheels I usually (bearing in mind I'm no pro, but usually get decent enough results) 1. Couple of layers of Nitromors (cheap from B&Q) to remove any previous paint if neccessary 2. Key surface with first 500 grit (usually used dry) to get surface nice and flat then 1000 grit wet and dry. Fill any low spots with Chemical Metal. 3. About 5 thin layers of primer, leaving around 5 mins between coats, leave to dry for a while 4. Rub out any marks/dust with 1000 grit wet and dry, reprime another couple of coats if neccessary, repeat proccess until nice and flat as any imperfections in the primer will show up ten times worse once the colour is on 5. Put the colour on, around 5-10 thin coats, leaving two minutes between coats, leave til touch dry. 6. A good few coats of lacquer, I spray in a reasonably dusty garage or outdoors so usually use a fair bit of lacquer so I have enough thickness to flat later. Remember when laquering to go both horizontal and vertical to avoid any lines. 7. Once totally dry and hard, if neccessary rub back with 2000 grit wet and dry, finally use a light cutting compound to bring laquer back to life after flating. Finish off with some Wheel Wax to keeps the finish nice and shiny.

Should be matt. Proper leather cleaner like Gliptone will take the gloss finish away. I hate shiny plasticy looking leather!

Good owrk

Also had this problem, mine was due to wiring to the blue temo sensor.

Where do you get them from?

Had a similar problem with mine. Previous owner fitted a one of those low temp thermostats (presumably to mask an over heating problem that was wiring related which is now fixed) and car always stayed in "cold mode" meaning the temp would barely even register on the dash and the car would run rich - hence the increased performance when driving hard, but lumpy running when idling and normal town driving. Sounds to me like thermostat as you say. MAF problems usually present themselves as bad idle/stalling so I dont think thats a problem.

right am update. went and sorted the car today. it started ok but its idling really lumpy. when first turned on the revs bounce around like mad, and even when it settles it keeps souniding like its going to cut out. i've cleaned the MAF (reasonably new) and cleaned the ISV (reasonably new also). cleaned speed sensor up and appeared fine. i couldnt really get in to clean out the throttle body but did spray some carb cleaner in. any idea's what could be wrong? lambda sensor making it overfuel maybe as this was the error code that came up when it was Vag-com'd a little while ago? and reson why stalled was due to flooding engine as running rich?

I didnt realise engine speed and crank sensor were same thing! There are 2 different parts on the ECP site. I'll have a look tommrow :) Thinking about this I may have missed some very important information - the other morning the car seemed like it was going to stall, revs died right down to say 250 then up to 1000, did this 3 or 4 times on tickover when I first started it until it eventaully settled. Thought nothing of it as it was freezing cold and I was running mega low on petrol. Would this point to speed sensor?

Don't make the same mistake I did and buy a cheap one. Get 3.5-5k and buy a proper low mileage, full dealer/specialist service history minter or don't bother at all.

Thanks chaps, I will check the basics tommorow morning. I would hope its not the fuel pump as only replaced it a few months ago. Although it does seem like its being starved of petrol. How would I know if its the pump relay? What is the crank sensor? I cant find it on the ECP site? I take it its one of the two black/white sensors just infront of the block? Last time I ran VAG-Com the two faults that came up were Lambda Sensor and Engine Speed Sensor.

Finally seemed to get my Rado running nice, and tonight I was driving, went around a corner, revs dropped off and car stalled. Gave it a few attempts and tried leaving it for a bit but still wouldnt start. Car still isnt starting now even though its cold. Car was driving, cooling and heating up perfectly prior to this, even returning pretty good MPG. Anyone got any idea's, or will I need to get someone with Vagcom out to run a fault code check?

Mine just crumbled to bits when I took it off. Spends hours trying to scoop/scrape all the plastic shards out the block! Bad news (I remember right) it was around £35 for a new one from VW!

I know its non-OE but I always think the classic Momo team wheel looks real nice in pretty much any Dub. Had one in my old Mk2 Golf and its so nice to drive with too. As I say only thing thats put me off putting one in my Rado VR is they do look a little non-standard.

150k is nothing for a Vr6 engine though. Change the chain and tensioner, trace the oil leak, do a full service, freshen up a few of the sensors etc and it'll be fine. Have a look on the ECP website for parts and prices. The only worthwhile engine swap would be if you upgrade to 24v power.

I had this exact same problem mate. Was faulty wiring to the blue temp sender.

The advantage of having a good local specialist nearby :D After reading this thread I think I need to change my Lambda Sensor, car is finally going ok but does run a bit rich, and returns not so great MPG. Last time it had Vagcom on it the two problems that came up where Engine Speed Sensor (always does after reading this) and Lambda.