h100vw

Now we are clutching at straws then. :( You still need to do the leak down, is that right? I think that'll be the decider.

I think you should call Audi and see what it costs for 10000 miles running in services. They must have some menu servicing prices to quote you. It's not a car you can run on a budget and be happy with IMO. Don't get me wrong I'd like one myself but I know I'll always be able to look after my 62 quid Passat :mrgreen: Gavin

Apart from looking a bit mucky both pics look ok. Have you had the cams out to see if the valves are closing? I wonder if a broken/weak valve spring would stop the valve from sealing properly yet not cause any contact? Gavin

Wasn't trying to put you off buying one. It would be shame to buy the car of your dreams and have it sat at home cos you need shares in BP to run it. S3 prolly not much better on gas. Same money to maintain as other 20V turbos really. Obviously bigger brakes and tyres cost more though. Gavin

It costs a boat load of money to have the cambelt done on one and you wouldn't want the chuffer to snap on you. In common with A4s the front suspension arms are a bag of cra p. Not expensive to buy but I have watched them wrestle with them for ages at Awesome. Have you considered the fuel you will be using?? Will get through more than a G60 I reckon. Gavin

No cat on a KR, It does have a silencer built into the downpipe though. This makes it the same length as a DP with a cat as on the 9A 2 litre. Gavin

Bad luck mainly I think. CVHs used to do it if you revved them too hard, it jammed in more oil than could escape. The tappet pumped up and held open the valves. All kinds of popping and banging went on until engine speed dropped enough for the oil to drain. Old TomB had similar trouble on his 16V but the tappet went solid for some reason, the piston hit the sticking out valve and punched the cam off the head. It lifted the bearing cap off!!! It's all guess work until you find the cause though. A quick over-rev might have caused a valve to touch a piston, doesn't take much to stop it seating 100%. I would imagine that they are pretty similarish inside to a KR. VW IMHO are just reinventing engines that they started with 30 years ago.. :lol: You're an accomplished mechanic Paul, you'll get to the bottom of it. Gavin

Could be one of the tappets is staying pumped and preventing the valve from seating.

Are you 100% the valves are sealing?? No sign of broken ring/ Did you try the leakdown check? Thats what I would do before spending more time and money. Gavin

Is it turning over? or cranking and not firing?

http://www.the-corrado.net/wiki/index.p ... Electrical info

4-2-1 Better spread of power. 4-1 gives better top end. Gavin

Those bypass valves are a known problem. Get some new ones from VW. Or bypass them. Gavin

Address added now, he is just getting started but does Custom Code chipping and can get pretty much whatever you need. Gavin

PSI Tuning near Stoke. Andy used to work at Awesome. He did loads of conversions while he was there. Gavin Unit 7, Rosevale Road, Parkhouse Industrial Estate West Newcastle under Lyme Staffordshire England ST5 7EF 01782 563 306

Know anyone with a boroscope thingy??? Used on aircraft engines to inspect combustion chambers without having a million quid engine in bits. I know Snap On do one. Maybe you could get the rep to demostrate it on your engine then tell him you'll have to think about it, with Christmas and everything :roll: I am going with a valve stuck for whatever reason. Got to work top down IMO. Cam cover off, check that you get some clearance on all tappets. Cams out, tappets out see if all the valves are up the same amount. Gavin EDIT leakdown check will tell you where the compression is going won't it. Smash up a plug and weld a length of steel tube on it, connect to the airline and listen for the air coming out. Dipstick means bottom end, throttle body for inlet vavle and exhaust pipe for exhaust valve.

Since selling my syncro Passat and running a selection of 'older' (read as more likely to break) Volkswagens I have started to drive steadier. This morning for example on the way to work I got the 1800 Passat GT to an indicated 47MPG. That was by not exceeding 70. I will however, show people the way home if provoked. :mrgreen: I won't be bullied into submission by repboy in his company BMW/Vectra/Mondeo etc. :nono: I can't help smiling to myself, when my car cost the same as a weeks depreciation of most other cars on the road. Gavin Flat cap and string backs on order.

You could stick that in if you liked. I ran my Golf G60 back from inters a few years ago with a Jabba chip in it and a std sized pulley. It was a much smoother drive. What you shouldn't do is fit a smaller pulley, without a chip to suit the extra boost. I'd bin that induction kit and fit a std airbox while you are at it. Gavin

Not a complete test of it's integrity. Also, you can do a 'sniff' test of the coolant for combustion products. Gavin

The heat exchanger is worth a change out first as said above. A lot less messing about. In my experience the G60 head gasket blows in a big way. Gavin

ETKA shot.........

That was the next call. Got to do the cheap ones first though. New dissy £100. Should the same as an 1800 if you know of one in a breakers. Gavin

Could be a cap on backwards. They don't like that. Fingers crossed for a cheap fix. Gavin

Nah, the 9A is more like the 1800 from the mk2. It has a more modern system of fueling and ign. The engine had a detailed description in a Passat Haynes manual. If you do a search you will get the number. You can then hunt it down on ebay or amazon. I think you should have a look in the fuel pump relay. I have seen plenty with dry soldered joints. You can jump it and have the pump run all the time, to eliminate it. Gavin

ECU relay if there is one. Most VWs have them. Wipers is not a related fault IMO.