h100vw

Nowt clever about removing the charger. Just need a lot of different allen keys, mainly 6mm. I have bought several lengths to make access easier. Remove the alternator. If you take the pully off the charger first, you can get it out much easier. Other wise you'll need to remove the bracket off the engine. I'll do a screen shot of the mounts in a minute. Gavin And take note of the lengths of the bolts, I know someone who $hagged a serviceable charger, using the wrong length in the wrong place.

Those numbers aren't the end of the world for a non ported, std pulley charger. BUT you should make it a priority to get it fettled asap. If you knock off 1000 MB for a std atmosphere, then 560 would be about 8PSI which isn't that far off the service limit according to VW. Did you really wind the car up? you need to rev them hard. A good straight road and 3rd gear to the red line is what you need. Gavin

MK2 Golf Haynes manual. Gavin

Never looked into using Corrado switches. A suck it and see thing I am afraid. Gavin

You could wire them up like a MK2 Golf. Just has polarity reversing switches. Gavin

May be it was std suspension, either way the fella was fighting hard. Gavin

I did a track day on an airfield strip. Was fun, but it really showed that the C is not a track car. No major brake/engine problems, but it was obviously not in it's element .. I think the VR is less suited to the track than the 16V. My first 1800 16V was pretty good compared to my previous 2 litre pack C MK1. Upgraded with 280s, Weitec kit, VSAM and inlet/exhaust cam. I did have green stuff pads which hammered the discs but they never faded on me. The weight of the VR lump is a bit of a handicap IMO. You could see this at Castle Combe, one was coming onto the start finish straight. The driver turned the steering wheel and there was a definate lag in the car responding. It's quite a right hander and you could see it wanted to go straight on. On the other hand JoeMs VR wnet really well when I was a passenger at Oulton Park. A much more modified device though. You'll have a fight with a well driven MK1 in std trim but that doesn't mean you wouldn't have a great day out. Gavin

By heck, thats some flat spot on the first run....... A 20 lb increase in torque is pretty cool, in percentage terms. Gavin

Q. What is detonation? A. Detonation or "knocking" is uncontrolled combustion with a very steep rise in pressure. It is caused by spontaneous ignition of the fuel mixture, which has not yet been reached by the ignition spark. As the high-pressure waves hit the walls of the combustion chamber, their impact produces a metallic knocking sound. Failure to recognize and deal with knocking will inevitably lead to serious engine damage. Q. What is pre-ignition? A. Pre-ignition is an uncontrolled ignition process in which the temperatures in the combustion chamber can rise to such an extent as to cause serious damage to the engine and the spark plug. Full-throttle operation can generate localized hot spots and cause pre-ignition at the following locations: * At the tip of the spark plug’s insulator nose * On the exhaust valve * On the protruding sections of the head gasket * On loose deposits (ash and carbon residue) Pre-ignition of the air/fuel mixture can cause severe damage to an engine and this is one reason why the heat range of a spark plug is so important. Detonation is pretty similar to the operation of a diesel engine. The pressure in the cylinder causes the mixture to ignite before the spark sets it off. It can be reduced by lowering inlet temps(water injection/intercooler) or reducing boost(ISV venting). Diesel engines are designed to take the extra stress of the combustion process. Gavin

http://www.snstuning.com DIY section says I'm going to tell you something about timing. Each car is different, and each car will need to be timed to the best performance given conditions (gas,temperature, etc). It's best to touchy feely tune it in this respect. I can tell you to set it to 6 or 8 degrees, but there might be more. Too many factors depend on the ultimate result, which you want, the maximum power given the circumstances. That being said, I suggest you, on a warm day, with good fuel, mark the distributor and cap with some paint or white out. Then unbolt the 13mm lockdown bolt in front of the distributor. Left = advance timing (more power), right is retard. You want to advance it a little bit, run, it will make more power, but you want to listen for ping (marbles rattling when you first give it gas, thats pinging or too much timing), then at the high rpm if you feel any stumble, thats detonation, your knock sensor will pull out power, and it will feel like your car is missing a heartbeat (Bad stuff). Of course, if you live in a cooler climate, like canada, you can push a lot more timing. If you live in Cali or CO with 91 octane, you are going to have to back out timing most likely. Our chips dump a ton of timing as it is, so don't get crazy and expect to run 14 degrees of timing unless you happen to have some handy dandy (100-114) race fuel in your car. I hope you find this information valuable, you'll see that there are a ton of little tricks to squeeze out more power, and eventually you'll realize how tempermental the motors are. Ultimately, with a little bit of elbow grease, you can squeeze a little more power here and there it all ads up. A g60 making 15psi of boost, but poorly tuned, and maintained, is going to get spanked by a 13psi G60 in tip top shape! A timing light is still the best way IMO Gavin

Are you sure that you can't do the stat with the PAS pump fitted. I did on my Passat. The elbow was leaking and I could get to it easy enough. Replacing the pump will defo need the PAS pump out of the way though. Mike, do you get hot air out of the blower? If so then you can't take the temp gauge as being gospel. IMO all the Corrado and Passat clocks read really low. My syncro would run at just over 90, the 2 litre GL was bob on 80. The 1800 GT I have now is just under 90 and the 16v Corrado I have does the same as you describe and the temp drops maybe 10 degrees once you get to Mway speeds. I am pretty sure all the above cars use the same thermostat. I think you should just drive it, you can't have been far yet so take whatever you see in the next couple of weeks as being normal for that car. Anything different after that could be a problem. The daftest question is the one you didn't ask. Someone will eventually give you a serious answer, if there is one. Ask away. Gavin

Oil temps are the biggest worry on the track IMO. If you haven't already fitted an air/oil cooler then you should consider it seriously, again IMO. My Golf would run upto 140 degrees easily. With the oil cooler on it would rise in 5-10 degree steps each session. I didn't let it sit that long TBH. Maybe 20 mins on track and 40 off? They were doing 20 min sessions with 3 standards of ability and not open pitlane. You could watch the temps and as soon as you backed off for more than 100 yds the oil temp started to drop. A full lap of Oulton on a warm down had the oil back under 100 every time. Oil pressure should be less of a problem, keep and eye on the level afetr each session though and bear in mind that lefthanders will cause the oil to run away from the pickup. Even with a std VW baffle on the pump. Brief drops in pressure won't be a worry but if the light ever comes on.......... And if you have never done one before, find an experienced mate to co-pilot for a few laps, or get some instruction. Which circuit? Be prepared to go through lots of petrol. My Golf had to have over half a tank onboard so as not to experience starvation on righthanders. Not what you need on a G60!!!!!! Either take some extra with you or spot a garage close to the circuit that you can nip out to. If you have spent time mapping on the 65 just stick with that. Never run it to the limiter as laders don't like the shock they get as the power goes on and off. I'd just keep it under 6k like you said, it'll be plenty fast enough. That's one way of keeping on the circuit. The first track day I did was in some Rover 414s!!!! We weren't allowed to go over 4000 revs. Which was actually not that bad and there weren't any casualties apart from the heap of slicked up front right tyres! LAST PIECE OF ADVICE> CHECK THE WHEELS BOLTS AFTER EACH BLAST ON THE TRACK. I nearly lost one at Elvington, it came loose in less than a lap, all 4 bolts were in by a couple of threads. The heating and cooling of the wheels can slcken them enough that they vibrate loose. Keep on the black. gavin

Yeah Mike, run it for a while, it'll be condensation I am sure. Vernier will need messing with to get best power anyway. Gavin

I'd ask on http://www.vwvortex.com too. Gavin

Once everyone is issued with the new style MOT cert and you have your car insured you should be able to save yourself the misery of queuing and do it online. I don't see the point either TBH. It only serves to prove you were legal that day. Nowt to stop you cancelling your insurance as you walk back out the door. They are creating a database of insured cars though. As a condition of my trade policy, anything I have for more than 14 days whether for resale or personal use has to be registered with the insurance company. In fact I am not sure if that isn't a European directive. Gavin

I actually have a Corrado now and I have been on the forum 2 years or more. Don't be a stranger. Gavin

If you hunt around for a box there should be some numbers on it. Gavin

Item 12. Not a very close picture mind but you can see where it goes. Gavin

Sorry to hear about the run of bad luck. You won't get nowt for it with a duff head gasket though (who has diagnosed it?). Gavin

Changing cars will cost as much as sorting the G60, surely. What's up with it? Gavin

photos. Blue, black, yellow black counting from the bottom. I hope they don't move about inside the boot.... Vac pipe too. The one nearest the bulkhead goes to the airbox. The other is split a couple of times, one goes into the clocks and I can see another goes to some valve on the inner wing.

Off out to my C now.

Will call you about 1300 hrs

Aye, he said he had. I am calling at Dave's about 1.30 tomorrow. I have to drop the Passat back. Are you in tomorrow, I might call in on you... Gavin

The pump sucks and blows the actuators but it's operation is controlled by the switches, these are integral with the actuators I think. The alarm hooks into the control lines to the pump/CL controller thingy. The system needs to be sealed or the pump just runs forever, there are some pressure switches in there that sense the loss of the vacuum and keep topping it up. Check out the pictures in the Bentley. Gavin