h100vw

Great minds and all that!

Kev, have you seen a G60 rad? Its a big chuffer, ETKA says it is 580mm long, with the bolt on elbow on the end. I think that is the same as one a VR. ETKA lists a smaller one but I can imagine the price and availability! What I think I am gonna do is, restrict the top hose like I suggested above and see what happens. I have an infrared temp gun. You can just point it at things and get the temp straight off. Ideal for brakes and tyres. I'll do before and after shots and see what the story is. I might see if there is a larger water pump pulley, that would reduce the flow as well. A higher temp thermostat would be the one to have. The more I think about crimping the top hose, the more it seems that is all the thermostat does??? Just a different place in the circuit. A sleepless night wondering, coming up! Gavin

It is so close to the subframe as std (G60 Golf). The sandwich plate would never go in as well as the heat exchanger. The oil does come up, it takes 5 mins driving to come to 50. I have seen it go to 120 odd on trackdays this summer and when you back off for the warm down it starts dropping almost straight away. I believe the oil system is ok, it's just it has removed so much load off the water system, that it is now far too efficient. If I were to restrict the flow in the top hose, would that up the temp in the system as a whole or would the water be cooled more as it is in the rad longer?? Would the water t stat keep things in check? Gavin

I had to remove the heat exchanger, as it'd be nigh on impossible to get the oil filter on and off. The oil does run at a fairly constant 76-84, it gets a bit hotter with no air blowing over it. I assume the temp is measured going back into the engine? The problem I have is the water temp, it barely comes out of the white in winter. As there is no longer any heat transfer from the oil, into the water system. The water temp is really low. I don't have a problem with it during the summer but now the heater is pretty weak. If I reduce the flow into the rad, will that up the temp or cool it more? I can't make my mind up which it'll do. Gavin

I have a 15 row 230mm one on my Golf and have had to cover it with cardboard. The water temp is so low its chuffing freezing in the car. Covering the oil cooler means the water gets a little hotter but not much! I deleted the heat exchanger and could do with a smaller rad really. Unless someone can come up with a way to reduce the cooling/flow or summat, which would allow the water temp to get a bit higher. Maybe a mad 100 degree thermostat?? Gavin

Worst case, both CV joints need replacing. Best policy, fit new boots. Cost about £15 a pair from GSF. Take about 2 hours tops in labour if you are not doing it yourself. Not dangerous in the short term but needs doing now you know! Gavin

Buying a good std G60 with history etc is pretty similar to buying a winning lottery ticket. Especially when you consider the youngest one is going to be ten years old. It would be better to find one with a good straight body and forgive the mileage/sensible modifications. Also, you need to see evidence of a rebuild on the charger. Even with full history at 100K it'll need inspecting, if not rebuilding, mine did and it was need a paperweight. Your 3K minter could quickly turn into a 3K money pit. If there is no bills or the fella says yeah it's been done. You could check the charger timing belt, if it's been done the belt will nearly cover the width of the pulleys, if it doesn't it'll be a std belt and no rebuilder I have heard of, uses original belts. You will need a 5mm allen key to take the little cover off. I think you may need to widen your search. Look at Cs all over the country. Someone on the forum may be able to do an initial check for you, before you do 100s of miles for nothing. If you are doing a search of 40 miles there may be something 60 miles away? Don't forget to ruthless chipping at the price. Unrebuilt chargers could be useless and still make reasonable boost? That can be checked with the MFA. I always like to see 4 tyres the same on a car. Not remoulds but ones you have heard of. 4 slicks/different brands, makes me wonder where else money has been saved??? Don't give up! Gavin

Gazza, need to tell me which day, but no problem. Gavin Anyone North of the border, who needs a loom can PM my mate Zak(KUR2Y). He has some bagged and ready to go.

Its in the jiffy bag now, will post while picking up the nipper from school. Gavin

You just missed it on Monday mate. Don't buy a probe on spec mate. might not be that and you have wasted the money. Have a look on http://www.vwvortex.com in the G60 forum, there is loads of good info in there about running problems. Look for stuff by mrkrad he is one of the fellas behind SNS. http://www.snstuning.com You can isolate the probe by taping up the WOT switch on the throttle body. If the car runs better, it could be the probe. Investigate before spending. How are you vacuum pipes? Lots of cheap jobs before buying probes. Could even be bad wiring, ask Gazza about wirning, he is THE expert!! :lol: Gavin

Anyone needing to see the light can PM me and I'll return the required info. I can do looms for most VWs and Christmas is just round the corner :D Regards Gavin

Tell us the part number off the rail and the injectors. ETKA will do the rest. Gavin

I am surprised, did they know you had shitty gas mileage? It may have been summat to do with incorrect timing. I did see your crank, it was definately Donald ducked. It would have cost a lot more if you'd had the engine rebuilt . It could be that your probe is trashed and doing the same as my MK3. Does it seem to pull ok, or is it flat? The MK3 is nearly sorted now, all the crap has come off it. Only the Supersprint to go on and we'll call it a day. Until I stick some KR cams in it and and and.... Gavin

Bootsy, I will prolly be had up soon for advertising but Awesome isn't that far from Manchester. Andy in the workshop knows his stuff. Incidently I just cured the massive consumption problem on my mk3 16V. Whilst fitting some suspension I found the lambda probe tied up to the heat shield! :shock: There was a cat and probe bypass pipe fitted! The previous owner must have been a complete kno b. Fitting the probe back in the exhaust gave me an instant 10mpg improvement! Hurrah! Tony gets less of my hard earned. :lol: Gaviin

I dont think you'll get one in a book, as such. What make is it? Scorpion? If you ask a more direct q I might be able to help you. I took one out of a MK3 recently and can still ident the wires. Gavin

Universal 3/4 wire would do you I guess. GSF etc sell them for about 30/40 quid. You could get one from a scrappy but there is no way to prove you'll get a good one there, without testing it. Depends on your budjet. If you go supercharged what do you mean. G60?? or summat else? Does your management support a probe it would be handy if it does. Gavin

Will try that one day. Cheers Rica Gavin

Bits of trim often have different colours. Sometimes there is two or more variants of the same thing. Front shocks for example would be different on 16V, G60 and VR due to weights differences. You need to use the engine codes to split them, KR, PG etc. Also there is often more than one sheet of part numbers, so ones you cannot see can be found by highlighting the part or hitting enter. Rica, how do you do the capture? Very handy. Gavin

The prices on ETKA are pretty wild. I'd bell VW. Sorry not into Cs enough to notice its would be a 95. I'll get the other numbers in a bit cos I got to feed the nipper. Gavin

Need the year of your motor, preferably the chassis number. Gavin

535 853 687B and 3A0 853 675 for your badges

Ross/Alex pm'd you both. Gavin

No need to change the valve seats, but you should lap the valves in to their seats with grinding paste and a stick with a sucker on the end. I suggest you get yourself a book on modifying heads, it would take ages to type in all the things you need to do. I don't think you need to get a wideband probe. I doubt whether your gauge is designed to read a wideband output. I may be wrong. I'd get a cheap one. Your motor will be a lot less susceptable to damage from a weak mixture, compared to a G60. Thats why most of use G60 types have them, to keep an eye on the mixture during WOT. Gavin

Intake air temp too. Gavin

No need to replace the springs unless they are broken. Tappets can be got from GSF etc. Gavin