h100vw

The box has to come off to do the bearing. Turn up the stereo! :shock: Gavin

Not got pics but I have replaced mine. I bust the orginal trying to check the filter. Chuff :( Anyway the deal is: Lift the boot carpet, take off access panel(3 screws) disconnect wiring and the two petrol pipes(note which goes where). I have some special pliers for doing the std fit clips which allows you to re-use them. You might need to $hag them to get them off. Replace with jubilee clips??? Undo the big ring, knock it round with a hammer and drift. Once yoy have the ring off the plate with the electrics and pipe connections lifts out a fair way but remains connected to the pump/gauge sender assembly. Last job, grab hold of the pump/gauge assembly and turn it anticlockwise. It is held in on a bayonet fitting. Once released, you need to f**k about, getting the whole thing, out of a hole that appears to be too small. It does come out. "Refitting is reverse of removal" If you break it, you can get the same pump from a VR6/GTI/GTI 16V MK3 Golf, most of the 2 litre 8V Passats. The pump is a 4 BAR one and although they are made by a number of manufacturers they are interchangeable. Cheers Gavin

Most likely it'll lose a bit. But it is a signifcantly better engine that the C 1800 or 2 litre. NOMEX UNDERWEAR on. I have a MK3 16V Golf myself. It has plenty of miles on it and on a motorway it goes really well. Nearly as good as my fettled G60 Golf. You want to get everything from under the bonnet that connects to the engine. That may include the ign key and barrel if the car has the factory immobiliser. Do you have the facilities to fit it yourself? The electrics needn't be the hardest part. Gavin

Run it on the Kjet. I reckon you could just fit the inlet manifold and it shoul go OK. You can make the kjet flow more fuel in a number of ways, if it doesn't run perfect. Obviously using all the management etc would be the nicest way of doing it. You would need the lambda probe fitting in the exhaust for sure, but the rest of it would be pretty much plug in. Gavin

A weak mixture often causes popping on the over-run. A weak mixture burns slowly and is still going when the exhaust is open. Hence the popping. This should be almost erradicated on modern dubs as they have over-run fuel cutoff. The fuel is shut off, until the engine speed comes down to about 1500 revs and then it cuts back in. Gavin

I have seen them done without the use of a press(or safety net). The guy just used an exceedingly large vice! Also, if you do it yourself, take the hub and strut off by disconnecting it at the bottom balljoint no need to get the tracking and camber sorted!!! If you disconnect the strut from the hub it'll be an extra £50 at least. Gavin

Chris, thats seems like a boat load of money to do the matrix. Has your motor got the valves fitted under the bonnet? If not get yourself over to volkswagen and see if they'll do a freebie. No reason why the shouldn't.. If you have the valves fitted, ask them for a price anyway. In fact a phone call with your reg number and chassis number should get the answer and no need to lift the bonnet. :lol: Gavin

I can get an alternator rebuilt in Warrington for less than £30. New bearings etc. I'd look in to that before buying a recon from GSF or somewhere. In fact I had mine bench tested before and just bought a brush pack. for a tenner. Gavin

It might be an alternator output issue. As you dip the clutch the engine and alternator slow down. The output of the A drops off slightly and your dim lights get dimmer?? Have a look at the lead from the battery to the starter. The alternator power goes there too, maybe it is corroded or needs tightening? All the above may of course be cobblers :shock: Gavin read below \/

I agree, good advice. Hot air=no airlock Gavin

No mate. The recall was to relieve pressure in the system that could blow the matrix. Furki was talking about allowing water to flow thru the matrix so that there are no airlocks. However, water flows thru them all the time anyway. So it makes no difference whether it is set to hot or not. Except, you would know water is in there, as it blow hot in the car. Gavin

Setting the heater control to hot doesn't do anything on these, I have done a matrix change on a MK2 and there is no valve in the hose to it. The heat is regulated by allowing heated air in to the cabin or external cold air. On MK1s etc there is a valve in the hot feed to the matrix and therefore you would need to open the valve to ensure the whole system is filled. Kev, will it not be the other way round, the top hose will get hot and the bottom one be cold if the stat is stuck shut? Does the temp gauge keep on rising? The hoses on any car will have some pressure in them, even to the point of feeling pretty solid. Could you be paranoid since the hose blew? Is the fan cutting in? Cheers Gavin

That pipe can be a couple of cms short but over 5 will defo make it run bad. It should have a big loop under the scuttle tray, if not, its defo too short. It should be connected to the top outlet on the throttlebody too. Gavin

Shouldn't do, depends more on servicing and mechanical sympathy. You want more power and to use less fuel, let us know if you achieve that mate we'll all have some!! :shock: Depends if you wear lead boots or titanium trainers. Not if you stick with the std pulley. You could get a few neddys if you had a custom chip for your std setup but why would you when nearly 200 is on the cards for £2-300 with a 68mm. A chip for a 68mm pulley will work with a std pulley. I had this for a week. Jabba fitted it at inters a couple of years ago. It ran much better/smoother. I fitted the 68mm pulley after I got home. I would personally want to hear my car run, before handing over the money for an unknown chip. Unless it was really cheap, £25ish. Fitting them can be a DIY job. Jabba used to do them for mailorder and the likes of http://www.snstuning.com have howto's you can read. **mod edit**quotes made easier to read - stevemac Looked at your ebay link. That seems ok. It would likely cost you 50 for a pulley any way. Maybe you could have the guy fit it for you. It may be a ride to Harrogate but you would know it works before handing over the cash. You could drive home and fit the pulley later. Gavin OOps Clacton is chuffing miles. Scratch plan A.

Is that crank or wheel HP? Can we take it that your p*ssed cos it is crank? I agrees with stevemac you would lose all your power if it was a tooth out. You can check the timing without tools, roughly anyway. Take the cambelt top cover off and set the crank to the TDC mark on the bottom pulley. The top pulley mark, should line up with the mark on the cam cover. It could be 180 degrees out so rotate the crank again and line up the mark. Lastly move the dissy cap, there is a notch marked in the body of the dissy, it is where the rotor arm should be pointing to number one cylinder. Your bad power delivery could be the ECU pipe is the wrong length? When was it last looked at/replaced. It needs to be a metre long, thats really important!!! I am surprised at your boost, 10PSI is not great. My stg 4 68mm pulley makes 1bar comfortably. It could be that you have a boost leak. The timing may need adjusting. Something else to remember is that a rolling road is the last place you will see good horsepower. The intercooler will get heatsoaked very quickly even with a fan cooling it. It is pretty impossible to replicate road conditions at a standstill. My Golf, 68mm pulley, stage 4, frontmount IC, reds, custom chip, 3.5BAR FPR, panel filter and decat-stainless system made 185 at the crank on a 28degree day. My intercooler must be nearly 4 times the size of yours. You could barely touch the intake side but the outlet was pretty cold. Yours would be mush worse I think. Those dissys can be a bas***d to move, I had to knock mine round with a chisel after soaking it with WD40. Did the Austec adjust the fuelling or any engine parameters? Cheers Gavin

If the cam timing is out, boost levels will be affected FULLSTOP. Boost will be out throughout the range not just flat out. Have you replaced the cambelt recntly and now got no power? Gavin

I am pretty sure the quantum/scorpions are cat 1 but if they want to see a cert you won't have one. I removed one from my MK3 and none of it is soldered which is a thatcham approval stipulation for aftermarket fits. I don't know that it applies to factory/dealer fitted alarms. To be honest, I think after ten years its worth having a new one fitted. Just for the peace of mind. Getting remotes and stuff will only get harder and more costly with older alarms. Gavin

Anyone interested, PM me anytime. Always online at least once a day, if not more. Getting close to Christmas too. Only about 10 looming days left! Cheers Gavin

Like a rebuild? :shock: And that smoking thing verses passive? Like a lad I was in Kuwait with. 200 tabs was £4. He says if I can smoke like 2-300 a day, think of the money I am saving. :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: Paul, don't do any small pulleys before someone has a look at your charger. Thats a certain way of needing another, not a rebuild. Have alook at the little timing belt. If it doesn't cover 90% of the width of the cogs, it's prolly the original and could spoil your Christmas. See Pitstop/Gwerks and get it looked at!! Gavin

4 205/50 15s toyos from mytyres £185 delivered. bargin if you have a friendly place to fit them, cheap. Gavin

Will, What part of the wiring do you want to check? I might be able to help you with a page number? Gavin

Chuff no chance of selling a loom there then. :shock: Gavin

Caios, Thats how it works. The pump runs, which you can hear and feel in the pedal. Light goes out. When the abs sees a bad signal or nor signal it shuts off the antilock but the brakes still have assistance. This what mine has been doing for 2 years now. Cannot be bothered to get mucky looking at it. Might come up to Dubsport but I am not bothered about running my car. I know it goes OK and I need the money for petrol! I live in Warrington. It also depends if I am in work or not. Cheers Gavin

The front sensors have disconnects that are located on the strut tops. The car side is bolted down and the sensor side can be disconnected. Do you still have brakes? Is there still servo assistance or does the pedal need a massive 'Arnie style' leg to bring the car to a halt? If you have assistance I'd be looking at the sensors. If you need to be Arnie then there is a pump type problem. The light should go out when there self test is done and the system is pressurised. I am assuming it is operationally similar to the LHD Golf G60 system, even if the parts are different. If so check the fuses above the fusebox, maybe one has blown? Gavin

ETKA lists the motors and switch. There is no hint they are LHD only though. Maybe VAG uk didn't think it was worth haviing. Gavin