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h100vw

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Everything posted by h100vw

  1. It will move a bit it will depend on the state of the rubbers. There is a flexy joint in the downpipe which allows a bit too. Gavin It should be good for the drive home. Where are you going that's 300 miles from London?
  2. Tom, which immobiliser is it exactly? I have a Meta M36/99T cat 1 on my Golf and have had them before. I really rate them for reliability. Anyway, I think you can have the immobiliser linked to the alarm so they work together. You might get away with a 2 - 1 upgrade. Your man there is defo taking the p*ss. I fit cat 1s for a little over 200 and cat2s for less than a oner. http://www.metasystem.co.uk/ Is theft a real problem over there. Not like you can get off the island without someone seeing? Maybe I should arrange a fitting holiday or something :lol: Gavin
  3. That sounds like the exhaust on the back axle. I t'll be worse if the car is lowered. Other things that compound the problem are the rubbers. Just go mad spend a tenner and change the whole lot. I have also replaced shagged bumpstops to help cure exhaust issues on lowered cars. Of course the exhaust could just want fitting better? Gavin
  4. Tom, if you need an alarm ever. Get on a ferry, leave your car with me for the day and go to the Trafford Centre. I'll lend you a car and save you money!! That goes for anyone in the Northwest that needs a CAT1. Gavin
  5. I have built a mk1 16V and I had a mk2 master cylinder and servo. There are no clearance issues with this setup and the std dissy cap. Gavin
  6. Seen that on a 16V, it ran real nasty on the new cap. There were only 3 contacts inside the cap!! Gavin
  7. h100vw

    noisy fuel pump

    If it does have an external pump, I'd check the lift pump in the tank. Usually a p*ss poor lift pump streeses the main pump and takes that out too. It would be a shame to replace the main and have it fail again shortly due to the lift pump. Lift pumps are a £40 from the usual scources. Gavin
  8. Gwerks/Pitstop. G-man and Beavis. You are on much safer ground if that pulley is a 68. The 3.% BAR FPR is good to hear too! Not 100% about your injectors being bigger if they are though it's only a small difference. Gavin
  9. I want to get in before Bilal. :lol: You are risking doing damage to your motor running that little pulley, without a chip written for it. I doubt very much if a Jabba chip is going to supply the fuel that your boost will require. You will be running at the very edge of your std injectors ability and a few secs of lean running, can do massive damage. The fact that you have some pinking, means that something is not right. It could even be the bottom pulley bolt? Like you have asked, you need to get it all checked out, sharpish. I'd get yourself down to see Darren and Steve in Worthing. Gavin
  10. Good point, thats the first job, cracking that sucka! 30mm. Needs to be 1/2 inch drive not 1/4 :lol: Ian didn't struggle, he has a big one! :shock: Gavin
  11. Bolster if you take the strut out like I said, Top mount, ball joint and trck rod end, there'll be no need to have the front end set up. Saving money. Riki, is a hydraulic press not pretty similar to a vice? How would you crush the bearing with a vice. When I said I had seen them done with a vice, It was by Ian Birch. I think most folk in the VW scene would respect his abilities as a mechanic!! Gavin
  12. Have a read of this..................... http://www.mototuneusa.com/the_need_for_speed.htm Read it to the end. Flame retardant suit on and extinguishers all around! I am with Kev, just get in and drive it. Don't kill it from cold but drive it normally. Years back performance bikes did a test of a dozen Fireblades. They ran the on the rollers and checked with the owners how they ran them in. They had outputs between 116 and nearly 140. Std was 125 I think. The fella with 116 said he dribbled around for ages before opening it up. The 140 bloke said 'whats running in?' Here's another thought. In formula one the engines are rebuilt all the time. They aren't going to do even hundreds of miles running them in after doing that. Of course the technology/materials are different but how different can they be? Later Gavin
  13. Me and 2 mates went to a shootout at Well Lane 2 years ago. All stg4 68mm pulley Jabba chip setups. There were slight differences in the spec of the cars, as follows. Mine, panel filter, front mount intercooler. 157BHP at the crank Dave, G60 Syncro with aircon and small top mounted I/C, panel filter. 159 at the crank. Chris, Cone filter and front mount, 163 at the crank. All 3 cars had non std exhausts. Good job we never said owt about the mods cos we'd have looked like T***s. We even got battered by a std VR6 Golf. And the conclusion, tell yer mates in the pub, what you like about the output of your car. Cos at the end of the day it's all cobblers. We all had the best part of a grand spent on our cars and struggled to make factory horsepower, if you believe Well Lanes rollers. The place to seperate them IMHHHHO is on a track, either 1/4 mile or race. I know my car goes better than std and there is a 4motion Golf driver somewhere in the Northwest, that'll tell you about the day he couldn't see off this old mk2!! :shock: Gavin
  14. I read that a year or so ago and like Caios, I have never heard of another incident like it. Anybody else on here seen owt like it? There is a lot of VW and general car knowledge and experience on this forum and I would say that it is a well isolated incident. I'd be interested to hear any similar stories. I fact I am pretty sure that Awesome had the car in, after it had the wack. And while I was doing some time there, I pulled a lot of it apart. Thing is plenty of people still drive old 80s Cavs and Ashtrays. They have some nasty wishbones, that rust through and you never hear owt about it. Admittedly it could have been a defect in the making of the joint. But who is to say, that it wasn't damaged prior to the lad buying the car and that it took a while to fail? Gavin
  15. h100vw

    flickering lights

    The flickering could have been a broken filament, that was making and breaking due to vibration. Now it bust completely, no more flickering. Gavin
  16. VW std wheels vary a little bit between 33 and 38mm.. If you go lower, 25mm the arches get filled more. If you went higher than 38 you will narrow the gap to the strut. Thats assuming you keep to std widths. If you had a 7 inch 25mm it would probably rub the rear arches, the big splits on my G60 did, even with good suspension and bumpstops. They weren't rolled though which would stop the problem. Gavin
  17. Uh huh!! Off a Limited. You must be some kind of spotter! :lol: Not so many of them in the world....... Thing is, the part number on it, is exactly the same as the one I have fitted now, without the blue line... Gavin
  18. This was the last time mine looked smart.......
  19. Henny, mine is mainly Black, except where the corrosion is coming thru, here it's brown. I just cant bring myself to spend money, on something that won't improve performance!! It gets washed once a month, usually on a monday before the local club meeting. Gavin
  20. I have one. GTI G60. I too had done the rest of the VW range except the VRs. The G60 was the last on the list. Its Schwartz met like yours, with black back lights, black side repeaters, black front indicators, single headlight grille with small black supercharged badge, black 15inch steelies. I think you get the picture. :D It's got Weitec TA suspension, poly bushes front and back. Stainless system with cat bypass. Panel filter, 3.5BAR FPR, red injectors, custom chip, 68mm pulley on a self rebuilt stage 4 charger. Oil cooler with heat exchanger removed. In your charger picture, whats the pipework? Is it for aircon or something else?? Cheers Gavin
  21. h100vw

    flickering lights

    edd, the fogs are in the bumper and the lights you seem to be talking about are the spotlights. The ones that are in the headlights. What should occur is, the outer headlights come on when you turn on the lights. When you flick on the main beam at the stalk, the outer lights go to main beam and the spots come on then. Having read your post again, it does sound that the PO has messed about with it, due to the poor std lights. I'd get it put back to std and then think about an uprated headlight loom, that will allow you to get the best from your lights. Gavin
  22. The traction control is primative to say the least. I don't think thats what you have experienced. Was the roundabout a big one? On trackdays my Golf cuts out due to fuel starvation on longish righthanders, if there is less than about half a tank in it. It could be summat else but that would be the first thing to check. Gavin
  23. What car are you fitting it too? Your C? Demontweeks list uprated fuel pumps in their catalogue. If your pump was dead, a std replacement would be good enough. Gavin
  24. The pump I got was from a VR6. There is a spring rod on the fuel pump that is attached to the sender. My fuel gauge reads perfect. I did carry a gallon with me for a while just in case. I always bottled it and filled up before it ran out. I got the tool from the Snap On man at work. It looks like it would pull teeth pretty good too!! I'll see if I can find it on the website for you. Gavin EDIT, can't find them. He will be in work tomorrow, I'll get the details and post them later.
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