h100vw

There is no relay directly responsible for sending power to the solenoid. It is only fed from the ign switch. Maybe the switch is duff. Or one of your immobilisers/connections to immobilisers is bad. Gavin

Doesn't that feel good!!!!!!!!!! Wishing you all luck for your future ventures. I don't think you fellas will need it though. With your unbeatable customer service. I still think a pound a minute for the helpline would make you a few quid!!! Cheers Gavin

I take it you are writing chips for std injectors?? Going back to the duff hall senders. I can appreciate that replacement of the dissy may cure the 5K flat spot. But the engineer in me needs a bit more. Bearing in mind there are no moving parts, as such, in a hall sender. And therefore nothing to wear out. What is wrong with these hall senders that you/pitstop/gwerks have replaced? Going back to my first MK1 with clockwork ign(points). Some of you younger lads may not have seen them!! :lol: It was running really badly. The main cause was the bushes in the dissy being worn. This allowed the shaft to oscillate rather than rotate. This would then alter the setting of the points continually. Making it impossible to set the timing accurately. Also this would stop the coil from charging/discharging the same for each spark. You could see all the above on the Sun tuner. If you hooked into the king lead you could see on the trace that the voltage to each plug was different all the time. The timing of the sparks was jumping all over. I eliminated the problem with a Luminition Optronic kit. This used an Infra red diode and receiver and amplifier instead of the points. This very similar to a hall sender in operation. The car then went like a rocket as it should have. Now, if someone were to monitor the ign in a similar manner and then tell me, that the timing was leaping around with one dissy and not another. I for one would be alot happier, pulling out what seems to be a perfectly serviceable dissy. So is it the replacement dissy ( with less wear in the bushes) or the hall sender fixing the problem at 5K???????? Gavin

Maciek, G60jet has a point those lights look like early ones. 5 bar grille etc, built in 91. Nigel can you confirm that by looking? I'd hate him to waste some money down to me. When you say moonroof, are you talking about the glass panel from a Passat????? Cheers Gavin

I'd say it's worth backing it off to see if it makes any difference. Doesn't cost much, unless you have to buy a small torque wrench to do it back up. Gavin

hauptscheinwerfer is headlight, nebelscheinwerfer is fog light, rucklicht is back light. http://search.ebay.de/search/search.dll ... sicSearch= I turned up a pair of lights here and one new one. The fella with the pair of lights says in the ad, he'll send weltweit, worldwide. You have until tomorrow to iron out payment and shipping with him. Those lights are about 30USD at the moment. Maybe he'll do a paypal account?? Frage an Der Verkaufer is the ask seller a question button. Ask him if he speaks English. 75% of Germans do in my estimation. I worked at Frankfurt airport for 9 months a few years back. Cheers Gavin

If you have a scope with a high impedance it won't interfere. I always slacken off and retorque the knock sensor on a service. If they are too tight they get oversensitive. I forget whether it is 10 or 15 lbft. Gavin

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/Pro.asp? ... apon-store Have look here mate. Scroll down to the 12 point sockets. $8.90 plus shipping. There must be a Snap on dealer near you. They are everywhere. Gavin

I'd say those lights are the problem. They look poor to me. I'd get myself onto ebay.de and get yourself some LHD euro lights. The plugs on your lights are also different to ours, the ones I have seen anyway. Any chance of you disconnecting one and taking a pic of the inside of teh plug and the back of the light? What bulbs are fitted in your lights, H1,3,4,7?. The inner two lamps, when do they come on? Do you have DRLs. I do believe that a loom would improve matters. Maybe G60jet could help you out with some lights, as he is on mainland Europe. I am willing to make you whatever loom you want, if you go that route. Gavin

Let me know if your not going Darren. I'll leave the shocks at home. Got that loom for you too. Gavin

You could get a handful of 1800 digifant dissys from a scrappy and try them one at a time until you find a good one. Or bite the bullet and get a new one. I got a brand new 2 litre 2E dissy from ebay for £10.52, with the cap and rotor. Bargin. Gavin

You might want to clean out the strainer on the oil pump. If that is covered in bits, it'll reduce your oil pressure, until the oil is up to temp. Working on the symptom, is not the same as fixing the problem. Gavin

Hey Cheesy, do you need big Fu*k off brakes on Jersey? You haven't any motorways and the limits 30mph, I heard! :lol: That said, they do look good. Gavin

Air in the caliper, which will give you a $hitty pedal. You could bleed it off the mount so the nipple is at the top and then fit it. Thing is the hose is the right length to go to the bottom, so it'd be best to swap the calipers side to side and bleed them again. Gavin

Harry, that reading of 1792 could be a bit low if you have a 68mm pulley. The 792 is millibars. Thats .8 BAR which equates to about 11 PSI. My stage 4 and 68mm pulley runs to 1BAR pretty easy. But if you have a cam or any headwork that will reduce the peak numbers you will see. Gavin

Most rollbars are sold in pairs. Eibach do some, about £250 Which model of C have you got? The ones off a G60 or VR are prolly bigger than that of a 16V. Gavin

Both places sell them mate. What makes you think you need a new one?? Gavin

Check the part number on it Steve, I have one in the garage. Its out of an early one. Is the red/black wire connected at the coil. If you disconnect that it stops the power to the ISV to allow you to set the timing and the tickover. Gavin

2 litre, 1.8 all got the same kind of cooler. Could be that when removing the oil filter, it also undid the tube that secures the cooler to the mounting. It has a big(24mm?) nut that holds it on. If not that, then maybe the O ring between the cooler and housing is damaged. Gavin

Bahnbrenner sell all the gear, as do Kompessor Kanada. Both on your side of the pond. Lots of info an the stuff you need. Also check out http://www.vwvortex.com. Gavin

Steve is correct 9mm 12 point. If all else fails Snap On will have one. You can probably order it online. Gavin

Joe, I just looked again and there is defo a vac line from the oneway valve in the servo pipe to the ECU. If it is not connected, you will only ever have the 6-8 degrees of advance that is set by the Dissy. That would lead to any extremely flat response by the engine as it can need anything up to 30 degrees to produce power. Think of it like the pipe connected to the advance/retard unit on old world carb and early 1600 GTI set ups. I had VSAM on a 1.8 16V Corrado and that intercepted and changed the timing if you programmed it too. It was tapped into the standard ECU vacuum pipe, so that it was reading the same pressure. VR6Storm comment noted. :D With ref to ETKA, 'it's not what you know but who you know.' 8) I am sure you could find it on t'internet. Downloading it may take a while its pretty big. Gavin

The standard pulley doesn't have the flats as far as I recall. Most smaller pulleys do have some flats.

GazzaG60 had this kind of trouble as did I. I had a custom chip done for my Golf. Gazza had access to a wideband and had his chip redone to suit his setup. He is pretty chuffed. Have you been back to your well known independant? My first SNS chip ran at over 10% CO as soon as you came off tickover. A miracle it ever passed the MOT. There was also a massive flat spot at 5000revs. I opted for the custom job, to avoid trying dozens of different chips to find the right one. Gavin

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