h100vw

It could have blocked the silencer behind it. Happened to a friend of mine in his Passat. Ran like a slug but got to 90 eventually. Pull the cat off and knock the guts out of it as a temporary measure. If it has fallen to bits try tipping the debris out of the silencer. Gavin

Oh yeah running weak causes a hot burn too. Gavin

So do you not think that maybe the new found 'go' and higher temps are related? :lol: When you have carried out a major operation like a head replacement I would be inclined to let things settle before deciding what is the new norm. 130 is certainly getting to the top of what I'd expect for road car temps. Which engine are we talking about? Is it the same sensors that are connected, are all the earths in good condition? Gavin

Paid for those bits with cash and looms :cry: :cry:

Racelogic VBOX Get the credit card warmed up though. http://www.racelogic.co.uk/2003/vbox/index.htm

If you can get up for 8 I'll ring you. Gavin

[ I think VW got it right really, now the mk1 golf... :pale: David. A mate of mine has a Turbo Technics mk1 and still has std disks on the front of it and drums at the rear too. He doesn't complain about them? I think a lot of it is down to being spolit by the effiecency of modern brakes in general. The ones on our works Kangoo are a lot keener than the ones on my mk3 16V and syncro. The syncro works better the harder you push and it really pulls up when you stamp on them. The MK3 is positively scary, worse than any of the mk1s I have run. Maybe new discs wouyld help, just reluctant to spend money on it with the prospect of leaving the country any time. I do believe that good maintenance is important on brake systems. 4 new discs and pads and a fluid change makes all the difference when done all at once. Gavin

We can do it on the ramp at my mums on saturday. Just don't get hammered friday night, I need to get back home for dinnertime. Gavin

He was at Harewood last weekend, must have driven there as there was no trailer in sight! :lol:

Steve disconnecting the BTS stops it from advancing at all. You can do it at tickover or 2k+. The reason you rev it 3 times is to make sure it is not idling up from a cold start. If you notice when the car is cold it ticks over faster. Rev it up 3 times and it settles down to normal. Gavin

GSF about a tenner. Gavin

http://www.bahnbrenner.com/media/php/ca ... &catid=169 http://www.bahnbrenner.com/media/php/16v.php No point in me cutting and pasting it all. Suffice to say you would be into a couple of grand minimum. Don't get me wrong they chuffing fly. Having been a passenger in a std Limited once, which had 20 hp more than my own G60. The difference is night and day. With a chip n pulley 250 is very realistic. Gavin

Chris have you seen the work and money involved in doing a 16V G60???? Gavin

Thats right mate.

I hope so mate. Not a killer job if it does bend a few valves, just the inconvenience. Keep us posted Gavin

Buy yourself a new bottom pulley from VW and get a DX crank bolt and washer. 2 ways to go here IMO. Fit the new pulley, bolt, belt and tensioner and see if it turns over by hand. Then try for a start. This is what I'd do myself. Depending on what happens you may need to follow on below if it doesn't run. You can pull the cam and see if all the valves return to the top on their own. Any bent valves will get stuck and not return all the way. If they look ok drop the cam in and try a compression check. The slightest bend will stop the valve seating and drop the pressure in the check although you will probably see something on the gauge. It might seem involved but you are saving the cost of a head set and a skim, which is going to be 100 quid or thereabouts. Or 2 rip into it blind, which isn't sensible and will cost money and waste time. Gavin

The red/black I thought it might have been is the one you describe. You use it when setting up the 16V. You pull them apart to allow you to set the timing and tickover without interference from the ECU and idle stab valve. The other wires in there look like they might be for the side repeaters. Not sure about the red/black though now. Gavin

If the fella doesn't work for a race team I take that as cobblers myself. :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:

Just one side or a pair that are joined together???? I wondered if one had been cut off?

I had a Pack C on an 1800 mk1 with a TSR 103 cam and vernier it made 177bhp. Not a bad jump from an other wise boggo motor. I think it would be a killer on a G60. Assuming it is ok to fit it valvewise. Gavin

Is there a pair of connectors that can split in that red/black? Gavin

If you have a 1800 16V is there a fat red/black just by the coil? It should have a couple of spade terminals on it Gavin

The ABS does its self check when you turn on the ign. It can find the 4 sensors but there will be a couple of missing signals from the rear wheels without the cages. This gets snagged at about 15mp0h as you say. That's when the fail light comes on. Gavin

Its a third party equivalent of what the main agents charge you £40 an hour for. As Kev says a very useful thing indeed. Could save yourself the cost of a genuine lead in one go. Check what you get with the forum as there are a couple of 'non-snags' that get reported. Gavin

Have you chucked the old discs away. The cage comes off a piece of pi**. Have you got an ABS fault now? They do sit close to the sensor but thats all in the physics of how they work. Pretty sure I have a spare pair in my garage somewhere. Gavin