h100vw

Thanks for that Ian, I sent him a PM. Thansk for the use of your flag yesterday. :) Gavin

Check for a spark. Can you hear the fuel pump prime? Is it still running while you crank the motor, gonna need an assistant for that. Gavin

OOOh mate, you are in for a biggie! Are you a good mechanic? This is a long old job. I doubt that anyone could do this in less than 2 hours. The basics involve removing the charger for access to the lower bracket which bolts over the pump. Remove bracket, move PS pump, swap waterpump, rebuild is reverse of removal etc etc. :mrgreen: To make the job easier you will need lots of 5 and 6mm Allen key sockets, various lengths and with ball ends. Being a tool snob I spent loads on the Snap On van to make things easy for myself. Personally I thnk you should get it jacked up and have a good look underneath to confirm the snag. It may be the thermostat housing leaking which you can do from underneath, still need to move the PS pump I think. Best of luck Gavin

Thanks for the feedback Dicky. :)

I use 2 long jubilee clips joined together. Loop them around the tensioner and as you do them up it compresses it a treat. No need for trips to the ER to have the screwdrivers removed from your hands. :mrgreen:

Did you shear the head off the bolt? Can you get the other bolt out and get the carrier off the hub? If you can then you have a good chance of getting the remains of the bolt out with molegrips and penetrating oil. Failing that, off to the scrappies for a 2nd hand carrier off any VW with rear discs, mk2/3, Corrado, passat etc. Gavin

I have found that having a vernier pulley can eliminate a fair bit of lumpy tickover issues. My MK1 with Pack C head and TSR 103 (282 deg) cam hunted badly til I fitted the pulley and had it set up. Gavin

That doesn't sound very 'engineer', the bigger of the 3. :mrgreen: Gavin

8mm for sure! I have done several in the last fortnight :roll: Gavin

The VW bolts have a 'waisted' shank on them which allows more movement. I have run monster amounts of negative camber on most of my cars cos I like the way they turn in. It has never shortened the life of my tyres or worn them on the insides, even when I was doing 15000 miles a year. If you don't put the camber back to where it was prior to fitting the new suspension, the change in camber also alters the tracking. It is the incorrect tracking settings that ruin tyres. Gavin

That sounds right. Stick it all on the car and then set the height. Gavin

Duff ign switch would be a good place to start I think. You are saying it cranks but won't fire, is that right. Gavin

If it idles steady but too high with the ISV connected, you need to set it up properly. Unplug the blue temp sensor set the tickover using the screw on the throttle body. Reconnect the blue temp sensor and Bob should be your uncle. I wouldn't remove it. Gavin

Plugs are a killer on G60s. Not that you need the info right now but there is usually a fella selling them on ebay for £20 a set. search under W6DPO. The ones you have should last a few years now tho. Gavin

Could be something as simple as bad ign leads/dissy cap/rotor arm. Gavin

Darren wouldn't let you go if there was a problem with your motor and he just fitted another charger. Have you mentioned the misfire to him. Better than having him read about it on here. Gavin

Darren, you need to set up that premium rate number before offering that kind of service! You know the £1.50 a minute one! :mrgreen: Not that difficult to do really. There are a few points that get easier the more times you do it. Leaving 12 months between rebuilds means you forget a lot but nothing that you cannot work around. Gavin

Why do you say there is no power to the ECU? Cos there is no spark? Or have you checked with a voltmeter using the wiring diagrams as a reference. A couple of things come to mind. There is an ECU relay which are a fairly common failure. If that is it you can replace or fix it. Often it is just a dry soldered joint inside. The second thing could be the Hall Sender in the dissy. Easy to check using an LED or get another dissy and plug it into the lead. With the ign on spin the shaft and check for sparks from the king lead. Gavin

Can you get someone to turn the lights on and off while you listen to see if the relays are clicking. Also, unbelieveable, but I had both headlight bulbs blow on my MK3 Golf the other night. Practically an electrical impossibility. Gavin

How many relays? 1 or 2? Could be a fuse problem, even the ones in the fusebox that are for the std wiring. Did you have to cut any wires to fit the loom? or did it all plug in? Gavin

The PAS is the one that goes off the crank pulley and down to 4 o clock. It is the shortest belt on there. Prolly slack if it is sqeaking at all. Gavin

Less than £200 seems pretty cheap for a cat1. I haven't heard of Avital, are they defo cat1? Gavin EDIT. Have checked the website and they are Thatcham approved. 'With modest pricing'

Who made the loom? The main beam and full beam are the same thing. Can you clarify with switch and light positions so we know exactly what lights you are talking about? Cheers Gavin

Standard pullies are 78mm and made of steel. Aftermarket ones can be either aluminium or steel. Gavin

I stick mine in the waste oil thingy at the local dump. :roll: