h100vw

There is a nipple on the end where the big plug is. Most likely that you would only see it using a mirror. Gavin

What is it doing? Have you set the res to 1280/1024? Gavin

The bad tickover might be related to a duff closed throttle switch. Or incorrect base idle setting. Admittedly the poor acceleration sounds much more like the ECU pipe. Did it start all of a sudden or slowly get worse, have you had any work done in that area that may have caused this? Gavin

I don't know that you'll find much pressure there as it is supposed to drain under gravity. Just make sure you fit a new supply hose and that the return is clean. Gavin

The low oil pressure switch turns the oil pressure light on the dash off. The 1.8 BAR switch checks for 1.8 BAR of pressure at about 2000-2500 revs, if there isn't 1.8 BAR the buzzer and light come on. Gavin

I think you'll find this stops leaky ISVs losing you boost pressure. Nothing to do with oil pressure at all. Gavin

150 for a cat 2 is insane. :shock: :cry: They only cost £30 to buy in, if you get them in large enough quantity. Is their premises gold plated? I'd do a CAT1 for £200. Big drive up to here though. :roll: Phil, if yours is the special price, what is the full one? Gavin

Still in the same state as it was 2 months ago unfortunately. :cry: Still waiting on the charger. :roll: Hope to have it sorted for Tatton tho. Gavin

LJ, that number I posted above is the right one as far as I can tell. Gavin

My ETKA says N 020 290 3. Although it lists a different number for later models, which your 92 may or not be. It goes on chassis number. The picture is a bit confusing, is there a metre of pipe fitted to your car, cos ETKA shows a couple and says one of them is less than a metre long. Gavin

That reading is in millibars, knock a 1000 off for atmospheric and you get 800. Which is .8 BAR. .8 X 14.7 PSI is near enough 12 PSI. My stage 4, self rebuild G60 used to do a bit over a BAR according to my gauge. You may get a bit more out of it by revving higher, try 3rd instead of 4th. I doubt if you would improve that much by having a rebuild. Did you go right to the redline? Thing is that's not what a G60 was meant for, IMO they were made for battering up and down motorways at a ton. Not sprinting 0-60. The peak figure is not as important as power coming in early on in the midrange. Gavin

When you go to a wide open throttle the ECU still references the lambda probe for information on mixture strength. It does this for 2-3 secondsish. After that time it reverts to a saved map in the ECU. Closed loop mean it is using the probe to monitor the mixture and can see the changes it makes in the fuelling. If you have a Air Fuel ratio meter connected to your probe you can see the output constantly changing. This is due to the ECU chnaging the mixture. When it sees a rich mixture it leans it out and vice-versa. Going to open loop, allows it to run rich which helps during acceleration. SNS have re-written the code so that it goes open loop straight away. They are the only chip makers that have done this, that I am aware of. Have a look here, http://www.snstuning.com for all the info you need. I am assuming that your car runs ok, other than seeming hesitant when getting on the gas. You could have other timing and fuelling problems. The SNS site has some good info on getting the best out of a std car. Like making sure the vac hose to the ECU is teh rght length (1 M). Cheers Gavin

Take the boost return pipe and silencer boxof and have a look in the charger, maybe it has blown a seal out? If it has Jabba should sort it for you.

Digilag :?: Where the car runs off the lamdba probe, before going open loop. SNS chip if you want rid of it. Gavin

I would check that the linkages on the top of the box don't just need a bit of lube. Also, check that the circlip on the side of the shifter hasn't broken. That often makes 2nd difficult to get, especially when coming down from 3rd. gavin

Nice plug, thanks> :lol:

I think this is hilarious reading about Jocks and Yorkshireman arguing about spending money!! :mrgreen: 'You'll no be having a sale then?' I am afraid as another Yorkshireman I am with Phat, a new car that is going down in value while I am typing. Which will cost about 12 Grand to pay off. vr6storm, I am sure that Phat never meant any harm, as I don't but... anyone doing the maths would have to question the sensibilities behind buying a new car, after looking at the whole picture. You could have got a 53 and bought a private plate for less. Gavin Like I said no offence meant.

Is the Yank engine a 2.8 or a strangled 2.9? Gavin

With ref to having no locks or handles. The MOT says during the test you have to able to open all doors from the inside and outside. There is no mention of the methods you are allowed to use. It just has to work on the day of the test. Transmitters and solenoids are no problem as long as they work for the tester. Gavin

Nah

I'd use a cable tie every time :mrgreen: I reckon it must have something to do with either airflow direction or restriction to speed up gas flow? Thing is after the lump the gas speed will drop off anyway? Have you asked on vortex? Gavin

Stick the butterfly off a 16V TB in it instead. Fits like a glove. I never noticed any difference when I removed it on my Golf. Gavin

Ironically lots of car alarms come from Italy. GT, META and Selca for example. They also supply direct to manufacturers including VW. I fit Selca immobilisers and GT alarms and never have any bother. Does your car lock off the fob? If it does but doen't shut the windows then usually you need to extend the locking pulse. It does sound like the brain has forgotten what it is supposed to be doing. Depending how old it is, it might be better to fit a new alarm. Plenty of cheap cat 1s on ebay if you can do it yourself. Gavin

Because of the managment of later VWs, I have a 2E Passat which is similar, you need to access the ECU using a VAG 1551/2 to have the ECU learn any new settings. It might be possible to use VAGCOM as well but I don't know for sure. I have a copy of the 9A manual, if I get chance I'll see what it says about timing. Gavin

There should be a timing mark on the crank pulley. You may need to get right in there with your light as it is not especially big. Some white paint will make it easier to see. Is your motor a 9A? That might bring up some other issues with regard to setting the basics up. Gavin