AlexDG

Si, Could I have the last one if still available?

Si, Could you add my name to the list for the next batch? Thanks.

How do you drive it? Using the loud pedal enthusiastically will reduce the MPG significantly. Is it regularly serviced, has everything been changed iaw schedule? Other than that being stuck on the cold running map this time of year will cause reduced MPG. Either faulty thermostat or temp sender can cause this (if thermostat the engine really will be 'cold' and will show as such on the gauge). Binding or dragging brakes will also cause MPG to fall, especially if all corners are in need of a refurb. Have you checked for any engine fault codes. I dare say there are a multitude of other things it could be, but I think they are the main ones. ---------- Post added at 10:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:14 AM ---------- Thanks for the offer, but I am in the 4x4 most of the time now that the winter weather is with us so it won't be a problem getting the existing injectors out and sent away.

So getting this back on topic... ...your local motor factor should be able to supply OE spec shocks and springs.

Generally speaking coilover sets will be setup with stiffer springs and higher damper rates than standard. The Corrado is not as compromised in standard form as many other cars because the standard setup is actually pretty good, obviously it has its limitations but then so does running a stiffer setup. Mine (not surprisingly) is standard, albeit totally refreshed (incuding all bushes with new rubber items) a couple of years ago and handles fine, the only real limitation is multiple direction changes close to the limit, which can overwhelm the shocks, but this is a minor aspect of the driving I do. I wouldn't run coilovers at the same height as standard without making sure the spring and amper rates are appropriate, the standard suspension 'give' will allow a dynamic change to the CofG (amongst other things) at the extreme of the handling characteristics and actually helps grip at the limit.

I fitted a used one, a gamble true, but I don't know of anywhere that does reconditioned ones and as mentioned earlier new from VW is about £2k. Obviously if reconditioned are available it would be the way forward...

Yes Yes

Sounds remarkably similar to the fault code I had which was: '00275 - ABS Outlet Valve, Right Rear (N135)', this code pointed to an error with the valve in the hydraulic controller in the engine bay. As far as I can ascertain there is no easy way to fix this because it is related to the electrics inside the controller (I have one partially disassembled and there is no obvious way of accessing the electrical gubbins easily). Just so that we are clear the controller I am talking about is the component in the engine bay with all the brake lines connected to it, not the ABS ECU. Hope that helps?

'front left valve fault' sounds suspiciously like a vagcom fault text that points towards a failure in the ABS controller (which is as far as I can tell is caused by a failure of the PCB ribbon inside the controller). The only fix as far as I am aware is to replace the controller, but don't bother with new they are about £2k! Do you have a fault code to confirm?

Thanks for meeting up part way, I'm very pleased with the seats and makes the Corrado a more pleasant place to be! As requested a picture of the weekend car attached.

Do I understand correctly then that you are selling the heated seat loom? If yes I would be interested in the loom, switch and relays.

Starting was worse when cold on mine, though rough running and stalling happened both hot and cold. I haven't taken the time to understand the logic behind the symptoms and why a fuel filter change fixed it. It could be that the similarity of symptoms is a coincidence, but since it is a service item and relatively cheap job to do it has to be worth doing to rule it out? I cleaned the ISV prior to changing the fuel filter and it made no difference (it had been cleaned a few months prior to the fault as well).

Have you changed the fuel filter (next to the rear O/S wheel) recently? It may sound mad, but I had identical symptoms, and at the time changing the fuel filter was on my to-do list, so figured since the fault was either fuel or ignition related I may as well change the filter to rule it out...it resolved the problem (this was the only thing I changed).

Checked that and as far as I can tell the wires are still neatly out of the way. Interestingly after giving the mechanism a good drowning in WD40 followed by PTFE based grease it hasn't played up since...I expect now that I have said that, next time I go to the car it will have unlocked itself again!

Count me in...fookin' hate sitting around waiting for the screen to clear at 5am on a winter's morning.

I was going to replace the injectors, but at £180...each! I will be waiting for a convenient time to have the existing ones cleaned.

I have an odd central locking fault and having searched can't find any obvious answers... Doors are de-locked (Passat rear handles and mechs fitted several years ago and worked fine until six months ago). Viper alarm fitted again not had any problems (apart from the ridiculous proximity sensor which activated every time it rained...proximity sensor subsequently removed). When I lock the car the boot and both doors lock fine, pump does not overrun (which I assume proves the vac lines?). But occasionally when returning to the car the drivers door is unlocked (the pin is up), although the alarm is still armed. I have hung around the car for a while waiting to see whether the lock will pop up while I am there, but I never have the patience to wait longer than a minute or two, never seen it actually unlock itself. Since this is only effecting the driver's door the I assume the fault probably lies with the actuator in the door...has anybody experienced this who can either confirm my diagnosis (it does not look like an easy thing to change) or point me in the right direction? Thanks.

Just thought I would share my astonishment at the accuracy of the mpg computer, never really checked it properly before, but after a pump to pump 300 odd mile trip the other day I checked what the computer was claiming...computer said 35.8mpg, real world figures said 35.4mpg! Equally surprisingly was the computer showing 37.1mpg at the end of the return journey, mostly motorway, but also about 50 miles of A-roads generally all at about the speed limit and maintaining a stead speed, but including several foot to the floor overtakes...not bad for an 18 year old car. (The car is bog stock and has recently had the majority of sensors replaced and new plugs, leads, dizzy cap & rotor arm, which probably explains the relatively good fuel economy.)

Do you still have the calipers and carriers (front & rear)? If yes could you give me a posted price for both pairs. Thanks.

Do you have the rear brake calipers and carriers?

All - just a quick note on these...I ordered a pair and fitted the driver's side the other evening, as someone else mentioned these can be fitted to the original plastic backing 'plate' which is what I did and so as to make sure the replacement mirror was a good fit I used impact adhesive to stick the two parts together. All was fine until I drove the car, when the mirrors arrived I did not inspect them too closely and they looked fine, but when I actually went out to drive the car there is a small imperfection in the glass on the bottom edge of the mirror which unfortunately distorts the lower 25% of the mirror making reverse parking a pain in the arris. I haven't contacted the eBay seller yet, but I envisage a difficult conversation because I doubt I will be able to remove the glass from the backing plate without breaking it (the original galss came away in three pieces despite my best attempts to remove it in one piece), so check them carefully before fitting. On a positive note the convex 'bit' on the rest of the mirror works a treat for eliminating the driver's blind spot and the heating element seems pretty effective.

Did you get this fitted?

Thanks to Roadster625 (currently breaking the green VR6). Good comms, item as described, packed v well & quick delivery. Ideal.

I would guess that the main things is to establish what the spring rates are for the Koni's and then look for something which has a lower spring rate (and damping to match). I wonder whether it would be worthwhile contacting Koni to see whether they could advise an alternative spring which could be fitted to the existing coilovers (and work with the coilovers damping characteristics - presumably they have adjustable damping?) to give a more compliant ride. Idle thought: a progressive spring would probably be ideal which would better cope with small bumps etc but maintain the handling etc, I have fitted progressive rate springs to one of my other cars to good effect (though not coilovers admittedly).