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Spoiler faults can be all the way back to the clocks, it may not necessarily be the motor at fault. Best way is to check the motor is actually working with an external 12v source, if it doesn't great, if it does than you have to start chasing the wiring back. The sunroof mechanisms wear with age. The metal the moving parts of the sliders are made from is extremely brittle even when brand new. None of the parts are available from VW anymore as they went obsolete some time ago. It's highly unlikely that you'll find someone with brand new bits lying around. Best bet if it is the cartridge at fault (which in my experience it is more often than not) is to try and find a good second hand one, however it may not last for long. Its not a very positive statement I know, but had VW fitted the Corrado with the same sunroof cartridge as the Mk2 golf then they would be a lot more robust and would last a lot longer.

I have two you can choose from. I have a used genuine one but is known to be working or I have a brand new pattern one, never been fitted. 25 for the used 35 for the new, both prices are plus postage. Troy.

I'll take these! Pm sent.

Interesting, I wasn't aware of this. Well looks like gutting will become more common if this is true.

It is completely possible for engines to pass the emissions tests without a catalytic converter, My mk4 4mo has no cats in and it passes every time. An engine that has had regular oil and filter changes as well as fuel filter changes can pass no problem given that all the control equipment (ECU, the map on that ecu, lambda probe) are all working within parameters. As far as I am aware if the emissions for a cat registered car are below the requirements to pass the emissions test regardless of whether there is a cat installed or not, it should pass. There is no visual inspection element as far as I know of, if anything is noted, it would probably be an advisory. The original engine fitted to the vehicle will be stated when the details are pulled up through the registration number (if the modification hasn't been officially changed with the DVLA), however all cars registered with cat requirements are checked against with the same requirements, the only time the requirements have changed is over the years where the legislation has become more stringent (Euro 2,3,4,5 and now going into Euro 6) So for example vehicle registered in 1994 will be able to pass with higher emissions values than a vehicle registered in 2004. There is no loophole because the engine has had a turbocharger retrofitted, if the V5 document hasn't been changed to support the modifications then it would be tested to the specification of the original engine. Even so, if the engine has been changed on the V5 the engine would have to conform to the pass values of the year of the chassis anyway... Most testers will just go by what their screens pull up. The whole process is automated and it automatically gives them the pass values for the given car on screen against what the car is actually putting out when tested. If in doubt the best thing to do is be honest with your local test center, they may help you in certain ways (legal or not). The other option is to find a workshop that own a gas analyser, find out what the pass values for your car are, and test the car in exactly the same way as the MOT center. The only problem with doing this is that everyone's equipment varies and give different results, also an independent garage may not get their equipment calibrated where as the MOT centers have to ensure their equipment is.

Having being involved in building one of these I can say there is quite a lot of parts finding to be done, being probably the hardest part, which is due to the rarity of the parts. If you decide to make your own parts to get around the lack of stock parts, it can be even more difficult. Major hardships are changing the rear floorpan to a rallye/syncro style pan (very difficult to find and will require modification to fit well and look good), fuel tank and pump needs to be changed to the syncro set up (also hard to find now). You'll need to also find a prop shaft and suitable fixings (the syncro one is a three piece unit and the mounting bearings are no longer available) Then there's the rear beam and trailing arms, if you stay syncro you need to find a syncro viscous coupling and differential that are in good order. That's getting challenging with most units being over 20 years old now. If you decide to go with the 4motion haldex and differential then the complexity and the price go up again. You will need to modify the rear beam with adaption plates that need to be welded to the original rear beam to allow it to carry the haldex unit and 4mo diff. Going 4motion also requires the use of the appropriate 02M gearbox. If you make all that fit you have to decide how you're going to control the proportioning of drive with the haldex unit, given that you wont have the electronics in place like the vehicle that the haldex unit came out of. This means you have to choose from a stand alone unit to control the Haldex controller, these typically cost around 600-800 quid. The other option is to fit a proportioning valve to the haldex unit but this means its stuck in one proportion constantly which increases the wear rate on the haldex unit by a large ammount. In short its complex and expensive and will take some time to complete as a project, it is by no means a few weekends, more in the region of a few years by the time you have done the research, collected the necessary parts, made the appropriate modifications and planned very carefully...your car will be off the road for some time, but if you see it through you'll be very pleased with the results.

I'll have to find the horn connecting parts, it's a little worn and a few of the threads are a little on the loose side but like I said it was solid on my car.

I'll grab a pic later today. I'm sure it's by Swm Motorsport.

I used to run one on my G60. I don't have spade like hands so the stalks were only just on my finger tips. That was with a kit that added an extra inch of depth. It was good as I only had on street parking at the time so I did feel the security of the car was improved, but I had to put up with the 'odd' looks from people as I carried my steering wheel down the road into the house. It was sturdy too so there was no issue whilst driving the car. The only negatives were that my insurance company didn't accept that it was an improvement on the cars security (bizzare I know)and that the specific kit I used made fitting a horn button impossible with my OMP trecento wheel as the horn body was too deep. I have been considering selling it so I could take some pics if you like... Troy

When your doors drop... naturally :)

It is sad but then again with so few left I'm hoping that they are in the hands of caring owners who want to keep them in as high a standard as possible. Even rarer is seeing a G60 on the road that is actually still a G60 and isn't running a 20vT or some other non corrado lump!

That's appalling to see from people who are hopefully qualified, I would be naming them so others know to avoid them. This is basics during first year of a college fast fit course or any motor engineering course for that matter. I would be asking them to fit you in tomorrow morning due to your holiday plans and if possible stay with the vehicle and observe whilst they repair the damaged parts. Trading laws state you have to give them the chance to repair it however if they refuse you have options such as 3rd party inspection and billing them. I highly stress you name them, as if they can't get something so basic right then imagine what they could do when fitting a clutch...

Evening all, I'm currently out to source a 2.0 9a block. I don't need ancillaries really or the head however I will consider buying a full engine if the price is right. As a minimum I require block, sump, and crank. Located in West Sussex and I am willing to collect within a reasonable distance. Troy.

Ensure the lambda probe is connected to an earth and make sure it is a good one. It should be earthed to the engine mount.

Hi all, Selling my old milltek system since acquiring a certain twin exit set up. The system is used but is no longer produced by milltek so getting rarer. The system was sealed with silicone as it was believed there was a leak however it transpired to be a cracked exhaust manifold. Comes with a working lambda probe. Looking for £180 collected from Littlehampton, West Sussex. [ATTACH]74595[/ATTACH][ATTACH]74596[/ATTACH][ATTACH]74597[/ATTACH]

Yesterday was a great show. It was nice to see so many people turn up and get involved. I'll get my photos developed this week and get them up. Thanks to all that showed for the M1 J9 convoy, sorry we lost a few of you! :) I'll retrieve the footage from John's GoPro soon and we'll get that up. Troy.

Challenge accepted!

Good point steve. We were only planning to be waiting around at Luton South for roughly 15 - 20 mins any how.

Just wanted to get this into its own post so as many people as possible see it. John (16vG60) and myself have come up with the plan for our journey to the show. We would like to get a convoy going from Junction 9 of the M1 heading north... any one wanting to participate can meet us at the Premier Inn Luton South as detailed below. We will be leaving Rustington, West Sussex at 5 AM sharp and heading north on the A24. We will be at the Leatherhead junction with the M25 roughly an hour later. Any one rolling around this area is welcome to join us up to our next stopping point as we go clockwise round the M25 and onto the M1. At M1 Junction 9 we will stop for approximately 15 minutes between 6:45 am to 7:00 am at the Premier Inn Luton South. From here we will head on up in convoy to Stanford Hall. We would like to get a convoy going up the M1 and if you are interested in this then please meet us here at this time. If you are interested in meeting at M1 J9 or would like to join the "early" stage of the convoy please drop me a PM with your mobile number so we can let you know where exactly we are etc. This is going to be one of the last chances to get a very big convoy going so we would love for as many people as possible to join us. Troy. p.s thanks to those who have already PM'd me with their mobile numbers. I will give you a text as were on our way on Sunday morning.

Good evening all, John (16vG60) and myself have come up with the plan for our journey to the show. We would like to get a convoy going from Junction 9 of the M1 heading north... any one wanting to participate can meet us at the Premier Inn Luton South as detailed below. We will be leaving Rustington, West Sussex at 5 AM sharp and heading north on the A24. We will be at the Leatherhead junction with the M25 roughly an hour later. Any one rolling around this area is welcome to join us up to our next stopping point as we go clockwise round the M25 and onto the M1. At M1 Junction 9 we will stop for approximately 15 minutes between 6:45 am to 7:00 am at the Premier Inn Luton South. From here we will head on up in convoy to Stanford Hall. We would like to get a convoy going up the M1 and if you are interested in this then please meet us here at this time. If you are interested in meeting at M1 J9 or would like to join the "early" stage of the convoy please drop me a PM with your mobile number so we can let you know where exactly we are etc. This is going to be one of the last chances to get a very big convoy going so we would love for as many people as possible to join us. Troy.

How many do you have?

I have for sale a set of 4 20mm pcd adaptors as described in the title. They are the trak+ hub centric bolt to hub then wheel to adapter type and have a wheel centre bore for standard vw at 57.1 mm. They come with the bolts to attach the adaptor to the hubs. (There is one bolt missing in the pics but I will source one to make it a complete set) Looking for 160 plus 15 carriage or collection from worthing West Sussex.

One thing that people have missed, unless I missed it myself, is that with the G60 you can swap to the CTN code gearbox which will make a stage 4 G60 do 65 in 2nd gear with ease. You can pick up a good working CTN box for anywhere between 150 to 300 quid depending if you're willing to wait or not and the best bit.... Cruising in my 200bhp stage 4 g60 at 75 MPH in 5th gear with the CTN box... 42 MPG... Get that out of a VR6! Both cars have their pros and cons. I have done the VR route with the Mk4 golf so I wanted something forced induction at which point I picked the G60 up over another VR powered car. You can spend easily between 2-3K getting a lot higher performance out of both engines but the way you spend that money with the G60 differs form the VR as you will move to a 2L 16v G60 which is easily 280 out of the box and is a lazy engine. I.e. a lot more room for power if you decided to remove the Glader and fit either a turbo or rotrex charge it. I think from a fast road drivers point of view the G60 is the better choice with the various upgrades you can do as you can get the best of both worlds with power and economy when driven sensibly for very similar money. As said in previous posts though if you do choose the G60 then try to find an unmolested car with a charger service in its fairly recent history. If you do buy one, even with a charger that has some paperwork proving its worthyness, I would still remove it and have it professionally inspected and even refurbished by one of the aforementioned companies just for extra peace of mind. Just my two pence :) Troy.

Th best wheel I had on my rado was the OMP Trecento in Suede. It looks a bit motorsport for most but the feel of it was great, light but rigid. Very nice wheel indeed. I drove it 500 miles in one day and my hands felt like they did when I started the journey.

Use something like a pry bar to lever the bolt as you turn it with a spanner. Some DW40 in there will help to free it from the bush too, spray it on the bolt and work it back in and then out again.