mimjed

i would assume full lock problem to be power steering pump/belt. check tension/bit of anti slip spray on the belt is a good test to see if its the belt. can have the pressure tested on the pump at a a garage. headlight switch - quite a few cars get broken on here :( look out for one, quite cheap. heating is normally a replacement job - again parts for sale maybe. you can buy sunroof repair kits, not sure if or how well they work.....no sunroof on mine

take them back if you can......much easier to buy another set than mince around trying to make them fit right.

63mm t piece http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/63mm-2-1-2-OD-Aluminium-Alloy-BOV-T-Piece-Pipe-Hose_W0QQitemZ270393710260QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3ef4b896b4&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 you need 1 inch/25mm silicone hose and 2 1/2 inch/63mm 90 degree (150mm legs i think). i cut out the oil burning sensor on mine and cut the 90 to make the join on t piece. got these from the same company. ash hoses seem good quality. the oil feed pipe does supply lube but your stopping any that returns via the boost return by removing it. cam cover as shown on the diagrams will be replaced by the pipe in your kit which is there to channel oil out of the engine bay. lots of stories about chargers popping and not to delete boost return. keep it lubed every 1k and check the pipe to air filter for oil as this is the most common seal to start wearing first.

id get a t-piece and return the boost from the isv, maintains manifold pressure, without pumping hot air onto charger. made a good return in throttle response on mine. dont forget pfte lube every 1000 miles too.

thanks for replies. the correct studs are m8 x 18 pitch 1.25. got part numbers now, diagrams on vagcat not that clear? any other sites? they are for a g60 (pg). m10 pitch is normally 1.50. i worked at a fastener place for about 18 months so im fairly good with sizes etc. best bit is i told them i was fitting a four branch and was asking about solid front mounts, so why id want studs for something that wont be there is beyond me. need to take back to vw, so if they dont have on the shelf then gsf it is. thank you

long story short vw have given me the wrong part. n 100 917 01 looks to me to be an m10 stud where as i was certain it was m8 studs i was taking out. i said this but was told these are what i asked for. now ive had a good look at them i think they are for the manifold to downpipe. anyone know the size and length, part number maybe? cost £60 for 8 studs and 8 stover nuts im 99.9% sure they should be m8, pitch 1.25 and length (only guessing) about 20mm ish?

thought id share where i've got to so far....thanks to those who answer my seemingly stupid questions!! :D started life as a 1.8 16v rental car, died with 180k on the clock. had a recent respray, bonnet is shite though. what do you do...buy cheap and dump a pg lump in of course :D . the beginning. and weight loss - abs, air con, electric windows all fooked off. bit of engine completion, standard intercooler in. boost pipes fitted. t piece fitted to maintain manifold pressure. fuel leak fixed. repair spoiler mechanism. g60 clocks working!new headlight. wolfsburg door pins. bonnet pull snapped, new one fitted. found an airbox, k&n panel filter in. enough to move it, lack of t and t so couldnt go nuts, hard to video clocks on your tod too!seemed to be running ok. [youtube:3fmmwe6r]mW12y5-V4cU[/youtube:3fmmwe6r] oil cooler put in. forge intercooler bought, all new alloy/silicone boost pipes. oil cooler out :mad2: new rear top mounts fitted. slimline radiator fan fitted. fitted gas bonnet strut. some nice new wheels!! (excuse the bird turd) love them at the mo. road legal slicks too, nice :norty: some turd nicked the valve caps already though! bought stainless four branch, decat and scorpion system, think its going to be loud though (not good), two silencers will be removed. everything removed just need manifold studs/nuts from vw. found inlet manifold looks to be cracked (need to investigate) drive shaft nearly fell out too....bugger. ended up chopping downpipe as i couldn't wriggle it out. to do...fit manifold/decat/exhaust. new bonnet and eyebrow on sunday (eyebrow needs spraying). front top mounts to fit??? (22mm nut) found the solution 13/16" spark plug socket egay £4. timing to sort out. dx bolt/washer to fit. cambelt/oil/oil filter/g12/distributor/rotor arm/dizzy cap/ht leads/spark plugs/gearbox oil to fit/change. general wiring and loom tidy up. charger service and paint, paint rocker cover too. need to buy new starter motor and coil. need to reline headliner as its dropped, any ideas for fabric?? (black). looking for [strike:3fmmwe6r]meta m100 keyfob[/strike:3fmmwe6r]. [strike:3fmmwe6r]parcel shelf black[/strike:3fmmwe6r]. [strike:3fmmwe6r]and dash piece to cover fuse box[/strike:3fmmwe6r]. after that think i will be happy with it :? hopefully you like where im going with it. vw reciepts are growing.

yeah tell me about it would have been knackered without goggles just to get this far. bugger mine doesnt seem to fit from under or round the side, only had a quick go as light was fading. think its gunna be drive shaft out the way to get it in....but need to look at drive shaft for damage anyway as it nearly fell off, could have cost a few quid!!

yeah sorry wasn't very clear. i meant is it best to use the original studs, (whats already there but new). or should/can i change for say M8 x 30mm sets (bolts)??? haven't measured up yet so just guessing at size. and where did you put yours in from? underneath or round the side of engine? axle stands or garage ramps? cheers

well i got the the old downpipe off (grinder on the twin pipes, thank you) got the exhaust manifold off too. which was a barrel of laughs. am i best to use the original studs or put bolts in for the stainless? and yeah still not sure about getting it in yet....looks tight for sneaking it down the side of the engine but if not i think i might take the drive shaft off looks like it will go, and i discovered it had nearly fell off whilst looking at it today, nice :scratch: .

oh joy. sounds like fun...... i think ill end up with angle ginder then! yeah i agree its not much fun on axle stands, prob should have got the dust off my wallet and visited a garage but its all about learning i guess. looks like i can sneak the manifold around the side of the engine and hopefully the 4 branch will go in that way too. cheers for replying

ive bought a stainless four branch but im a bit miffed about getting the downpipe out, just cant seem to wiggle it out and dont want to fook the heat shield. getting close to pulling the angle grinder out so thought i had better ask. its the early type, no cat and two pipes going in to silencer. also any ideas on getting manifold out (if thats as much of a pain) or putting the 4 branch in would be most helpful!! and where should i get manifold gasket(s) from, this only came with two in the box.......not a good start. cheers jim

id just like to mention this isnt just g60 engines at risk. ive watched a this happen twice to the same diesel caddy van. well worth changing just to be sure. dont know if there are any vw workers that can find it when they changed the hardness of the bolt?

back box can be swapped around mine was on a gti 8v before i put it on the rado. main concern is the angle of pipework for middle box and the middle box itself. look fairly similar but look aint good enough to part with cash :D

hi im not sure this is in the right place, but does anybody know how similar the full exhaust system is between the corrado and a golf mk2 16v. im in need of one and have seen one advertised as fitting both, dont want to buy a mongrel exhaust though. cheers in advance.

nice one, didnt know there was much difference in the quality. i like my vw receipts so stealers it is.

hose has split anyone know what diameter these are so i can get some ordered off egay? cheers jim

yeah mine was registered in 1990 so alarm was probably pre 90, and is static. but no hope of finding anyone to do it. havn't got the codes for the alarm though so cant register a new fob with it. i hear good things about a toad alarms for about £100 though

well been to timpsons and they said it would be possible to do, but they cant do it....car thief's are generally the only people capble of doing it!! any other ideas? im unfortunately thinking its gunna be a new alarm.

you can buy a bag of the tumbler pins from vw, you get about 100 for a few £'s. will either be 6 or 7 in the barrel. you can copy what is in the drivers door for the passenger door to get that working. piece of paper and write down what order you take them out in (they each have a number stamped on them) then copy the order for the passenger barrel. i did the above as i bought a lock set and drivers handle from a late rado but the barrel wouldnt fit the early handle on the passenger side. 10 min job with ease, although i was only swapping from one to the other but essentially the same. or a bit of trial and error to get one to work with new ignition key. then just copy it for the other side. personally i like to have different keys for ignition and doors, can start getting the oil warmed up but lock the doors. comes in handy at work. hope it helps you a little

really? thats spot on if they can do it :clap: a job for the week then. cheers

bit of an odd one really. i have alarm and immob, factory fitted. still works and no complaints about it. only problem is that the button you press has pretty much had it. so the question is would it be possible to copy the signal and then program this into a different fob? i dont have any codes for the alarm. the current fob has only one button, 1st press = unlock 2nd =immob 3rd = lock. if this is possible who could do it? cheers jim

Ok might have found a new idea. Can anyone remember the width between headlights by any chance?

hi all i have a corrado (obviously) g60. it has the 1.8 16v rad on it at the mo, i have bought a slimline fan for it and will be binning the old intercooler so should have room to move it back a wee bit if needs be. also have oil cooler to relocate too. but anyway dimensions of intercooler im looking at is 400mm wide 350 tall and 60 deep. only realy concern is height at 350, rad is 317 and theres not alot of room for that in terms of height. any obvious problems i will run into? or fairly straight forward? any better solutions than angle grinder? cheers jim