mimjed

doh, why cant you be from leicester?

i thought i heard a rumour of bmw doing an optional extra of tracks, glad to see it was true. cant wait to see the m5 version :lol:

thank you, not doing a great deal to it at the mo. sort of lost the love for it. depressing to open the bonnet and see nothing is where its supposed to be. mostly just pulling it to pieces and making sure everything is as it was intended to be. new gaskets, seals etc. get bits sorted for mot......soon i really hope. then crack on with a full service. not going on the road till next year, which is good because the weather seems to suck whenever i have a day off. oh i didnt buy genuine oil filters for the 8v, i got mann ones, my mate worked at a spare part place so he would sell them to me for about 50p each. (no nut)

cat, lambda probe, fuel mix are probably the best place to start assuming your car isnt showing any other problems other than high emissions.

As far as taking bits of it, you shouldnt really. Your supposed to buy it back from insurance. But anything not declared, such as your inerior could be exchanged for a standard one. Nothing to stop you taking charger off and putting a belt on in its place.....it wasnt running when this happened etc. Shame about the motor though.

hole in inlet manifold, seems ok though so crack on with it! nice casting defect too.....bloody volkswagen's a!!! :lol:

Yup she was fiiiiine just the leics lot then.....pornstar badges and shite when they look more like rugby stars :lol:

Did she have a fine ass though or was she an umpa lumpa? Love the stupid baby on board type things the munters and trolls have on their cars in leicester

Id assume them to be dry weights, cant see them adding extra for the fun of it.

Mot is a pipe dream for me! Lots to be done before that.....cv joint, unsieze front break, possibly emissions....just depressing me now

bugger, sure it wont be long before an early one is broken. stick a wanted up maybe?

how come you want 2.0 16v clocks? but yeah early rado's are what your after.

fair cop, i just put the shaft back in for now, axle stands are required elsewhere for the mo. think ive got a tub of the proper stuff, where is the question for now :scratch: cheers for reply.

Any ideas on what should be used? Driveshaft to gearbox. And any reasons why copper grease cant be used? Looking at a tub of it now.....

never knew this replaced mine recently and its not that spec. seems to run fine do i need to change it? yep. asap.

depends what you want to achieve, if its just fitting different wheels then just buy hub/wheel adapters. ebay or wanted on the forums.

ah, forgive me, its basic knowledge for those in the know - but bullsh1t for those who don't. a composite fabric (fibre glass, kevlar, carbon fibre) is made of up to four layers (generally speaking) the most common is one layer at +45 degrees and one at -45 degrees. these are laid on to a bed and then stitched together, the same as your bonnet. these angles can be altered, and/or zeros (multiple strands of fabric running in the same direction as the rest fabric can be added) for extra strength. my company website is formax.co.uk i think? we supply gurit (supposed to have good videos) i can record vidoes of us making the fabric if you would like? jim

95% that they are only 45's. not good quality stuff. if you look at the bonnets they take to ed38 you can see day light through them. its the name rather than being good to be honest. im planning on trying to fabricate body panels this year do maybe able to sort you out with a bonnet on the cheap :) but please do go with rally type bonnet pins to hold down for now.

as far as im aware its a must, no other way to pin down for sure. if your bonnet is just 45's it will flex at 110mph (ish) only way to hold them steady. post a pic unpainted and i should be able to tell you what its made of

nah spec doesnt mean alot, everything can be changed. arl engine code is the one to trust. front mounted intercooler instead of side. 110kw sticker in boot. 150 bhp came with 16" as standard 130 bhp came with 15" as standard. this particular car was a 150 bhp, all is good!

i make carbon fibre for a living, they never fit perfect im afraid. alot of carbon replacements bend/flex with speed to be honest. unless they have zero's in them. bonnets should be pinned down, drilled through to hold down. my company makes the chassis for the new mclaren, trial for lamborghini and had a recent trial for vw bonnets which was two 60 degrees and zero degrees for strength. can explain more if required....bonnets etc at ed38 are shite please dont buy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ah yeah if the cable hasnt snapped, you should get away with; close bonnet (passenger side) - get a mate to stand on drivers side and pull it up as you pull the handle - worked to get mine a few times till the cable snapped. might have to repeat a few times though

have a go through the grill maybe? mine went passenger side and i got it through there......not had drivers side go yet.

Sounds good to me

hard to judge the best way without a picture, normally theres a valve/release mechanism on the bottom of the tank. makes a fair amount of mess from the pressure, so pint glass or similar over the valve before you open it. but catch tanks need emptying regularly, depends how much you drive and size of tank as to how often. keep an eye on it.