somersetdub

I believe that fault is usually caused by a faulty hall sender. Had this recently on a mates mk3 8v and when I researched it, found it is common and my mate ended up getting another dizzy complete from another car which cured it.

When I did mine I copied the way it was wired from the car I had just removed it from... But I believe the connections behind the fuse board are colour coded so it should just be a case of plugging each colour wire in its appropriate slot - ie there are empty slots ready for more accessories and some are grey, some black etc. If you are still unsure and don't want to risk it, run a test light to the slots to see when they power up to find out for sure.

I did this a few months ago. I left the carpets in and worked around them, feeding the wires under where necessary. The relays go behind the passenger door card as already mentioned and the loom goes around the n/s of the car behind the dash to the switches and then I'm pretty sure it is just one wire that goes into the fuse board- the fuse board has quite a few spare slots and it just needs to plug into an ignition fed one.

PM'd :-)

I'll take the eibach if you wanna sell it!

:)

Beautiful sunset this evening!

Anyone tried this yet?

I used a spot of Loctite ;-) But even if it were to loosen, it would only bring back the up/down play that was there before, nothing more.

I can't see it being a problem for MOT, I would think the sloppy up/down movement would/should be more of an issue! It's completely reversible anyway. I have just been out for another drive and the difference in how the steering feels is surprising, so much sloppiness has vanished. :-)

The play I had in my column has completely gone now and the car feels much nicer to drive... Obviously the column is now fixed, but all you need to do is set where you want it before tightening the nut.

Hi all, just wanted to share a little mod I carried out on my vr6 earlier, to cure the up/down movement from the play in the adjuster. I know a lot of people simply replace the column for a fixed one, but I think this mod could save the hassle and expense. I apologise for only the 'after' photos, but I only thought about putting it on here after I'd done it. Basically I removed the large spring which is supposed to keep the column taut when adjusting it and replaced it with a long bolt, along with a penny washer and nut. This was possible after removing the lower dash panel and drilling a 6mm hole in the domed area which would have been in the centre of the spring. A picture tells a thousand words so they say, so here's a couple; hopefully they show clearly what I have done:

Ive certainly been persuaded enough to do it now. Just need to find a decent one with all the ancillaries and wiring etc!

Hi Fanj, congratulations on the new engine, I'm sure it will be a beast - are you fitting it yourself? I too have contacted Vege and they told me exactly the same as they told you. I'm sure only a few years ago they were doing rebuilt vr's for only around £1500, so 2500 seems very expensive indeed. I don't blame you for going for the r32 engine, it should be great once it's in :-) I'm still undecided on what I'm going to do. As i said in an earlier post, I already have another vr6 engine standing by awaiting a rebuild. I know a place locally where I would get the machining work done and I think I could rebuild it for less than the price of installing an r32. But the questions for me still are really:- Is an r32 running standard management (albeit on a custom map) as smooth and as drivable as a vr6? Is the 280bhp the car would potentially have blatantly too much for the traction and the chassis balance etc? If I do the conversion I want to be sure I'm actually 'improving' the car, not just making it faster. Drivability is a big factor for me.

Thanks :-)

My understanding was that the flat spot/jerky throttle etc could be cured with a decent remap? But Jim, I understand what you're saying, I love my car for its smooth throttle response and good manners and would be quite annoyed if I spent out loads on an engine which ended up having neither.

So you can use a mk5 engine and run mk4 loom and ecu?

Thanks :-) I shall commence the hunt for a package!

Exactly. Mine has done 150k and the engine was rebuilt already at 90k, with new rings etc. The rattles do seem to be bottom end based, although it has so many little noises it's hard to tell!! I already have an AAA engine which I bought some months ago with the intention of boring out to a 2.9, but still thinking an upgrade might be a better bet.

....I'm tempted, I'm tempted!!! The fuel consumption doesn't bother me too much. I thought the complete package that was on here was provisionally sold now? I'll check in a sec. Is there much to choose between a mk4 and mk5? - performance and fitting wise?

Any chance of getting just a rear engine mount? I already have a vt front mount and a new diesel gearbox mount. Cheers

Indeed. Well I only use the car occasionally- weekends etc, as the fuel economy is already fairly thirsty! I've just been thinking that by the time I've fully rebuilt a vr6 engine and replaced sensors etc it could be well over a grand. Where do people usually source engines from? All the ones I see on fleabay usually are bare, with no loom or ancillaries.. I know there was one for sale on here the other day, but they don't seem to come up with all parts required too often. The extra power would be welcomed of course, but to be fair my car does go pretty well as it is. I suppose the r32 engine would put it into another league though!!

Hi everyone, my Corrado Vr6's engine is slowly becoming more and more rattly on startup and I suspect the chains are getting noisy too. So I am currently contemplating a full rebuild on another vr6 engine I have, but I keep on getting tempted by the other option of buying a decent r32 engine and doing a conversion. In either case I would be doing most of the mechanical work myself, but may leave wiring etc for a specialist. Just wondered what peoples opinions are of costs involved and the differences in character between the vr6 and r32 engines. Obviously the r32 engine is more powerful, but how much quicker is it when fitted into the Corrado? Also is there anyone in the South/South West with an r32 converted to Corrado who wants to take me for a spin so I can see for myself?! Thanks

I wasn't trying to contravene any rules. For me they were a nice to have too, so I'm backing out.

I think I've got a 4 stud space saver from one of my old mk2 Gtis, it has been sat in a shed collecting dust for years, but I can check it out tomorrow if you like. Not sure on what state it is in now tbh, but whatever state it's in I won't want much for it.