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The heating still works as normal and the water has gone dryed out from drivers footwell. So im not sure how it got soaked?? could be split and on its way out. bypass the heater matrix inlet/outlet by putting the loop in the engine bay and see if the engine block holds the water level that way you can eliminate matrix as the leak. its also the easiest thing to do rather than dismantle dash. And iv also noticed the spoiler dont work. cant help with that could be several things And the window screen jets dont work??? clean the jets out with a pin and make sure pump is working

vw do an exchange drive shaft which is complete. its around £280 plus exchange surcharge over here. would be suprised if the drive shaft has 'gone' but more likley to be one or both CV joints. not too hard to do on the drive with basic tools in all fairness.

or you can get one from GSF a bit cheaper - some fit the TT ones. not too bad a job to get dash out - just time consuming especially finding the front fasteners ( they are in the engine bay under the wiper arms !! ( took me an hour to work that one out the other week :lol: ) there is a thread on the removal of a dash which talks about removing steering wheel and seats but i did it fine with them in. only 6 fixings holding dash the shell its all the other bits that you need move/undo which takes the time.

sounds like the heater matrix has gone if you have water in the car. dash out and replace it. or to temp fix you need to disconnect the pipes going into the matrix ( on left of engine going into the bulkhead ) and replace with a loop of pipe to divert the coolant back into the block. not an easy job to take the dash out but not a massive job ( a weekend will see it done and if you are handy with the tools then you could do it in the day ) there is a thread on here that explains how to do it.

you can remove the motor from the frame without too much difficulty. remove cover and 3 screws ( from memory ) that hold the motor to the frame. with the wires still connected you can test the motor to confirm this is not the issue. make sure it 'parks' back into the correct position before refitting ( i just use the tilt to test then you know it has returned to the correct position ) if its shot then you need to replace it. (i have one for sale if you need it) or you need to service the wires etc.

??bad earth in clocks?? could it be as simple as that ??- was waiting till better weather to investigate mine. big believer in if it works then leave it till you can do without it ( too many old vw's over the years ) :lol:

i've got this too, does yours go off completely when they flash ( eg using the indicators ) i am guessing initially that it is an earth issue OR something to do with the various alarms that have been fitted to it in the past. with mine going off completely when they flash i am guessing its not the relay but who knows. i am starting with the relay then earths in the front lights then the repeaters the rears will be the last ones to check as they are away from the elements. . . . let us know if you find it.

you will have pulled the loom when you took the clocks out of the dash - worth a check follow the harness down to the fuse board may just have slightly dislodged a plug and hense the on off as the connector moves whilst travelling. no idea on the clocks but assume they are calibrated when initially built and the 'adjustment' you made when they were half way has uncallibrated them.

did you disturb any of the wiring behind the clocks? remove the lower dash trays and check all the plugs are pushed into the back of the fuse board. ( just touch them with your finger tips will do to make sure they are all 'home' ) possibly pulled one out a little when you pulled the clocks loom out. also just check the other plugs out to make sure they are all fitted tight. is there an after market immobiliser fitted? how old is it? had similar problem recently it turned out the immobiliser was fubar'd i have a set of 8v clocks in my forsale thread so that can be easily fixed. :wink:

may wee mon sure :grin:

just seen this on the news - bloody unbelievable !!! the cheif exc of dvla sat like a smug t :censored: t saying its nothing to do with us if you do buy one. there is a list of stolen log book numbers ( tens of thousands ) on their website. nice of them to lets us all know - a flyer in the tax reminder would have been a good start. best of all you can not easily find the missing seria lnumbers on their website. got this from another car site The DVLA warned people not to purchase a vehicle, but to report the matter to the police if the serial number of the registration document fell within the following ranges - BG9167501 to BG9190500, BG9190501 to BG9214000, BG8407501 to BG8431000 and BG9282001 to BG9305000 rant over. :bad-words:

the top 2 screws are obvious the third one is central to the lamp at the rear. there is a hole in the front panel that you drop a long crosshead screwdriver down and this is the hard one to get at if its stuck. if you have never removed them then you want to get some WD40 or equivilent on them and give em a good soak.

MFA shows oil temp which is higher than water 70 to 80 in winter is ok - 90 to 95 should see fan cutting in to cool down oil will get hotter when you come to a stop from a run as the ambient temp of the engine is still high all sounds good - run car upto temp then leave ticking over to check rad fan is working - watch the temp guage just in case if it hits 100 shut her off and investigate.

got mine out today ( a little tight ) cleaned and 3in1 oil'd. also got ekta of the bay £5. :wink:

cleaned the dizzy cap and arm contacts - rubbling tick over cured in 2 mins :clap:

is it electrically powered ? if so looks like you have a shorting issue check wire runs

i dont know about the 1st one - the middle 9 would make interesting conversation :lol:

PMSL Ex - has been spurt - drip under pressure. :lol: Cheers for that, if your such an expert feel free to answer then! calm down dear , its only a forum post :wink: who knows what it is :shrug: , jet washers and engine bays dont tend to mix too well no matter what it is. OP needs to get all the electrical plugs dry and find / swap the sensor that has the VAGCOM issue. :wave:

near side outer cv joint andlower ball joint - 2 hours in the dark on the drive. will tackle the off side tomorrow. :norty:

you sure its the inner?? i have just had similar and it was the outer.it knocked on set off then a rubbing noise when driving. checked the boots and the outer ones had split, all the grease has been washed out - i guess by the recent snow/salt combo on the roads. plus they are cheaper

PMSL Ex - has been spurt - drip under pressure. :lol:

lots of things - those engines are fly by wire so could be anything. or i could just be that the sensor has gone at the same time as you washed it. best thing would be speak to your local vw commercial about the sensor and maybe swap it out

if it ran fine before you jet washed then i would let it tick over and get hot see if the fault cures. the throttle is run off a potentiometer up inside the cabin ( above the pedals normally ) so the sensor could be anywhere. may be worth just taking every plug apart wd40 or similar and put back together. that with the engine warming it all up could fix it. sould also make sure maf sensor ( one on airbox is nice and dry as they are very tempremental )

:wink: :cheers: :wink: made up for you - its great having heat aint it. just watch the coolant level for the next couple of runs try to get her warm enough for the fan to kick in or at least to 90 on the temp guage, let it go cold overnight and check in the morning. mine took two fills to level her off. keep yer fingers crossed the matrix is good and all ends well. :wave:

doubt it will unless you have an estate one and even then it will be a tight fit in. you could strap it to the roof - put some pipe lagging between the roof and the bonnet - like they do with surfboards.