G60

DON'T DO IT (imho) but if you decide to tackle a rebuild... don't buy the kit off ebay for shit sakes. if you do just the rebuild you probably wont notice much performance gain unless it was in rough shape before the rebuild. the porting is where the power comes from... and its not the porting you can see either, its porting the internals. do you have the experience to port the internals of a supercharger? do you have a bearing press? i thought the same as you until i wised up, sent a paycheck over to dave a kompressorkanada and he did a full rebuild/port (scroll to stage 4 picture): http://www.kompressorkanada.ca/glader/rebuild.htm i know for damn sure i couldn't do that so nice... and that's one of the easier parts of the rebuld/porting. not sure, maybe you are skilled in this area. just trying to share experience. oh, and even though my charger is on their site i am not affiliated with kompressorkanada or any other professional glader rebuilder!!! :lol: :lol: 8) that said... if you decide to have the charger professionally rebuilt and ported, daz is ur man! he can also sort out a proper OEM rebuild kit if you decide to tackle it yourself. http://www.g-werks.com or username '8vG60' on here :D

the list never ends when you own a corrado my friend! :?

well once they stop making them ya... but storms were rolled out from day one as FIVE HUNDRED ONLY were they not? i wouldn't say a honduh civic is a limited edition!! :lol:

ya but you remembered the solitudes ;) :lol:

storm is a limited edition. other than an exclusive paint code, leather and a badge (oh and higher purchase cost)... its a regular VR6. easy to fake storms so check into its authenticity if you're looking at one. research your options before you do anything crazy. if its hard for you to get parts i'd say you should stick with the 8vG60. have you had the charger ported/rebuilt, pulley, chip, front mount intercooler, exhaust, cam, ported head, big injectors, yadda yadda? lotta power to be had there with upgrades.

your regular 8v G60 can romp a VR6 with some well-executed mods. for a 2.9L 6-cyl flagship engine (until the W8/W12) the VR6 is horribly under-powered IMHO. the 2.8L they send over here is even worse. vw have had to detune faster engine setups *cough* 1.8T *cough* as to not out-shine the higher-priced VR6. why do you think the 1.8T gains an easy 30-40hp from a re-chip? good luck finding a 16vG60 to buy (no sarcasm intended)! won't be easy to find and it won't be cheap!

ya its a pretty involved process. not for the faint of heart. after all the work involved and considering the high-reving nature of the 16v engine, i still think its better to go 16vT despite being a hardcore g-lader fan. of course i've never done either... so what do i know?? :lol:

and because i'm feeling especially nice (and i don't want to do actual WORK yet...) click on some of the thumbnails below...

from kk's site (http://www.kompressorkanada.ca/howto/16vG60.htm): 16vG60 Conversion READ FIRST - This is by no means a complete how-to on a 16v g60 conversion. This is just advice and guidance. We are not legally responsible for the information that is contained here. If through the process you come up with any further advice please forward it to us so that we can add it to this list. The best source of info on this conversion is the 16vg60 group on yahoo http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/16vG60/ I'm going on the assumption that you have a 16v (with alt, dist, exhaust manifold) and a G60 engine with charger, bracket, tubing and digifant) Parts needed 1) alt doesn't fit in stock location. You have to options here, under the G60 or on the back of the block. I chose to do it under the G60, I recommend doing in on the back of the block, it's a real pain in the arse to try and get in under the G60, there is no room. You will need 2 mounting pieces for the back of the head/rear motor mount. Here are the specs for one of them, the other just comes straight up from the rear motor mount. 2) With alt in different spot, serpentine belt needs changing. With alt under G60, you need an idler pulley between waterpump and alt to get grip on the waterpump (belt goes right across from crank) and you can use a 8v timing belt tensioner for tension, mounted where the old tensioner swing arm used to be. If you have the alt on the back of the block, then you just need to make a small bracket to hold the tension spring in it's new location. 3) Crank pulley - G60 timing gear is narrower than the 16v one and offsets the G60 crank pulley. Get an 2L 8v crank pulley and get it shaved 6mm. 4) waterpump pulley - get one from a G60 Passat with no AC, fits there perfectly. 5) Fuel rail and injectors. You'll need an aftermarket fuelrail *available from Kompressor Kanada*. Get some #30 Bosch redtops to fuel the car. You will also need G60 injector inserts to put into the intake manifold. 6) Scirocco 16v intake manifold is a must. 7) Digifant - need to get custom chip, talk to Dave at KK, he does SNS chips here in Canada and they can cut you a 16vG60 chip with 30# injectors. You will also need to change the watertemp sensor, I have the part number somewhere. Make sure that you can mount the CO pot into the upper IC tube. Digifant MAP vacuum tube MUST be 1 metre exactly. 8) Intake elbow - custom part, I have a diagram for one, needed to clear distributor. 9) recirc tube, needs to be shortened...although I recommend removing it altogether and capping the charger off. 10) coolant hoses - mix and match of G60 and 16v, upper rad hose needs to be lengthened. If going into Mk2, 16v set should work fine as motor came in that car. 11) Compression, 16v engines have way to much for forced induction. I used stacked gaskets, you can either use forged pistons or a KK provided ABA metal gasket. 12) Spark plugs, Bosch F5DSR or F5DP Plugs. 13) Crank case breather in is now in the block, not the head, so you'll need to route that. 14) Block need to be drilled for G60 oil return line. 15) put in an A/F and boost gauge to round out the swap. thanks to Jerome aka mailto:[email protected] for the 16VG60 conversion information.

a VR6??? lol! who'd want that huge lump of s****throwin the front end about?? for a decrease in power compared to a stage 4 G60, i don't see why'd you'd go through with a swap.... unless of course you've got $5k+ on top of the swap to work out a charger/turbo on that VR6, no sense in a swap, G60 has far more power potential vs. a NA VR6. there we go, that should balance out the bait posts. :D

haha, lookin good! no corrado but at least you got a porsche on there! ..even if it is a little old skool 8) :lol:

lol! :lol: i've had two 4cyl cavalier beaters... i used to rev it right up and drop it into drive all the time... (don't need to brake to put it in drive after a few years that function wears out i guess??) ..i used to spin the tires fairly well and that car has NO power.. haha, niether slushbox has had it yet either!!! actually the one i'm driving now recently lost overdrive as gas prices went way up! :mad:

i agree with getting a late spec VR and swapping out the engine... or go the 16v route and fit the widetrack suspension to it... then if the power isn't enough, turbo the 16v, or stick a 20v head on there and turbo if you want. however, a rebuilt G60 is very reliable, and if you want to take the car into high rpm 6500+, just keep the stock pulley on it and it will be fine. as long as its maintained it will be fine... the g-lader actually is very reliable don't let other people's bad experiences (lack of proper maintenance) deter you. stay with the 15" rims or at the largest 16". 17"s are for looks, they don't perform as well as 15" not to mention the added weight. last thing... if you want a dedicated track car, why go with something so heavy like a corrado? why not a A1 or A2 golf or rocco? much less weight to haul around. (i should keep my mouth shut i'm in the process of buying a corrado shell to work into a track car :lol: )

dont worry about talkin smack about the 8v's.. i dont think there are any 8v owners on here... and any G60 owner that's popped a boost tube will vouch that a non-blown 8v is dog slow. only G60 and VR6 corrados in north america! :D

i'd look into legal action and get the insurance to cover it. if its that you didn't have the cash, or the bank didn't give permission for the insurance company to take the cash, then you weren't covered and you're out of luck. really sorry to hear about the fuel line breaking... a little late to say now, but this is why every G60 owner should check/replace those lines, relocate the firehazard ground strap and be very conscious of a potential fire. as for salvaging it.. depends how far gone she is. good luck is all i have to say! don't let insurance bugger you if you were formally covered. they screw us our entire lives.. so when something goes wrong and the tables turn, you gotta follow through and get your cash. there's enough people defrauding the system on faulty claims... if you have a real claim its plain robbery not to follow through with it, legally or otherwise.

ya.. i agree. the 95. way low milage :D but if i had a choice id take heated black leather (then i'd swap the middle portion of the seats out for charcoal alcantara so i don't slide around all over the place, doorcards to match)

..crisper boost response alone would be worth the effort i think. :D

you don't think you can squeeze a decent sized chargecooler rad in front of the A/C? could have two small ones.. one if front of rad, on in stock IC location.. more work and headache but possible. all i know is i've heard of 25-30hp increases on a worked G60 when a FMIC is put on... you're not going to get that spraying water/methanol on the stock IC. so for the most efficiency its either a FMIC or a chargecooler and I can't fit a FMIC.. i think i can make a chargecooler work with A/C.... :agrue: :lol: :lol:

^ i agree then worry about exhaust, COLD AIR filter and getting the head ported..think about a front mount intercooler or chargecooler. 8) don't worry about feckin around with a blow off valve.. search for posts on here about removing the boost return system. thats is what you want to try. keeps the charger cooler and it will give you a blow-off sound between shifts. you'll need to remove the boost return tube if you fit a blow-off valve anyway, so might as well try it with the boost return off and no BOV first. make sure you have no boost leaks. ISV delete/reroute. have fun.

i like those lights toned down a little... of course i never have seen them in person. seem a little too bling for my tastes in the pictures with all the fake chromework. i agree with you darren about painting the chrome surrounds. you could also have the clear uppers sprayed with a coat or two of something like 10% black/90% clear to make them a little richer... just giving ideas i've had about what i'd do if i bought new tails. i have 3 sets of OEM so i'm going to make up a black/red set and an all red set instead.. trying to broaden the engine budget as much as i can! :lol: thanks dubster82.. saw an exhaust like that on a dutch car and for me its the perfect compromise between wanting the car totally shaved, but also wanting a nice visable exhaust.

DC: usually the OEM IC is removed but you can run them in series... only problem with that is increased pressure drop. G60Jet: actually.. a charge cooler isn't in the way of the A/C at all... its actually one of the reasons I want to go with a chargecooler instead of a big front-mount, i have A/C. there's no chance you'll get a big front mount on an A/C car without some ugly piping. do you mean that the rad for the charge cooler and the A/C interfere? you can try your luck with that water spray.. i got a little ways into the project and quit (well.. the car quit that was the main reason) i started to lose faith in the water spray after engineer types and my step-father, who designs hydraulic and pneumatic systems, kept telling me it wouldn't make any difference. make sure you post your results if you do it! hook up some extra temp sensors :D

didn't know Cs came without leccy's. must be rare!

buy him a supercharger kit instead :lol: good luck with the search! ..on a sidenote, my girlfriend told me this morning that she dreamt she met a guy who makes models.. and she had him do up a custom corrado for me that looked just like how i want my 'dream corrado' :D ..shaved, rolled arches and all. she knows me too well!!

i agree nik... nice elements but it doesn't come together as a complete package. the buldging rear wheels/arches are damn sexy though 8)

looks like a rabid jetta mixed with a little A4. nice photoshop work if that's what you did... shading and highlights match well. :thumb right: how you gonna see with the front window tinted?? :lol: