G60

either keep em how they are ant or go a shade darker. the black in that pic jim did is REALLY dark... and flat. you could do em gunmetal or darker silver and get that deep dark look, but keep some of the shine and luster and all that. i think darker would look best on your car, i'm with darren on this one. you've got black accents everywhere, black tints... do em dark! :)

i was told it had something to do with when the PG block was used in a carburated setup... but i don't know how or why or if there is any truth it that or if the PG block was even ever used in a carburated car.....but thats what i heard. had me stumped too when i pulled the charger bracket off...

we never had the NA 20v here at all.. :?

my friend has that book.. i always open it to that page when i'm over there (or the page with the XR4Ti.. i have one of those too). the best part is this bit: "put simply, the corrado has one of the best front-wheel-drive chassis ever made" 8)

lookin great darren. nice work dubster82 :thumb right: looks just like what i want to do.. but with two minor changes (see thumb)

i swung the ass out on my C on ice/snow the first winter i had it (only moving it to a new storage location) i turned it sideways around a bend on a two-lane road with curbs on either side... managed countersteer back straight but without much room to play with the right side climbed a curb......but a little pile of snow acted as a perfect ramp and a small soft snowbank stopped the car about 3 feet before a pole. no damage at all. phew. sorry about your luck!

just be careful on dark cars not to leave those brutal swirl patterns. makes me cringe when i see those on a nice ride. reminds me of the shite work i used to do buffing used cars down at a dealer's detailing shop when i was about 16 and clueless (well..even more clueless). "here's a buffer. get to it" - "uhhh... ok." :lol:

i won't argue with you on this one skye! seam weld and make the thing damn stiff. after all, its all for the ladies anyway isn't it?? ..the ladies i know like a nice stiff ride :lol:

A2 = MK2 Golf/Rabbit. Use a new Mocal, I wouldn't personally fit a used oil cooler. You don't know what might be inside it that could contaminate the engine. Cheers Kev used cooler should be fine if you let parts washer run through it over night.. unless there are chunks of metal or something but if you clean it out and shake it around and run parts washer through it then anything that would come out while running it should come out then... but you're right better safe than sorry. A2 is a golf over here too... only A1s were rabbits ;)

photoshop is photoshop.. there is no substitute ;) jasc is an okay beginner program.. thats what i used for about two years, then graduated to photoshop as everyone will eventually do if interested in this sort of thing. maybe jasc is better now.. but back then, 4 or 5 years ago it was very basic. at first you'll be like "it takes longer" or "i dont know where everything is" but give photoshop a week or two and you'll never use anything else for this type of graphic work.

gotcha 8) it will need to be remapped.

the BBM rsr outlet has a diameter of 3.22" where it meets the charger.. if you use their hose and pipe adapter to mate it to the rest of the system then it tapers down to 2 1/16" i was supposed to get a port-matched rallye from kompressor kanada but he backed out and didn't do it (only disappointment from kk other that the paint on the charger flaking)... so anyway.... i had a full rallye kit (unported/useless cuz the charger is wide open, too big for the stock rallye) and a full bbm rsr outlet kit sitting around and the best combo is the rsr outlet with the rallye hosework and pipe adapter (it tapers to 2.25") but since darren is porting these rallye outlets to 3.5" and they use the adapter that only tapers to 2 1/4" (not 2 1/16" like bbm) then i'd have to say he provides the best of both worlds with this one. its the largest available where it mates with the charger and the hosework tapers down to the size of the rest of the system and no more (2.25")

..then its only one cam you're looking for. the head.. port it until it can be ported no more.

ya i would have thought it would read -40C if disconnected like mine does..

seems cheap for a campaign :?

300hp at the crank i assume... so closer to 240-250wheel horsepower seems like a better number to focus on... 240whp can be done on a 8vG60 with a lot of tuning/work, and is a bit easier to achieve with a 16vG60 setup. do you have just the 8v right now or is it an 8vG60? if you have just the 8v engine.. no supercharger.. i'd say don't bother with the 8v and just move onto either the 2L ABA crossflow engine, 1.8L 16v head with a 2L 16v bottom end or go with the 20v 1.8T engine. if you have a healthy G60 on that 8v motor already you could work 240whp out of that setup right there. if it was me i'd do something like a 2L 20v turbo or 2L 16v turbo if its an all out project car. fairly high displacement (for a 4cyl) and 4 or 5 valves per cylinder.... with a healthy t3/t4 turbo on there and some stand alone fuel management and you'll have a fuggin beast. it'll cost ya!

probably not if its staying off now. depending on the year you can run the codes and see what the fault was about... try hammering the brakes in the wet and test it out.

is there room in there for that mambomonkey? i've looked long and hard at my C and there's no room to run a pipe down to the bumper area. i have a/c... that was my backup plan... if i couldnt figure anything quick and easy out for a cold air feed to that inlet... i was gonna run a pipe down to the bottom... just no room so hacked out a blockoff plate. im gonna drop the rad and feed cold air in through the top of the grill. thats the plan anyway.

ah. nice motor by the way. looks tidy and seems not much to bring it back to mint. i hear ya about the insurance.. my rates more than doubled and i was already paying an unholy amount each month! :x our insurance over here is just stupid. i'm pullin the corrado apart and rebuilding it..plan is to have it done by the time i'm 25 and my rates drop! :lol: other than the insurance thing... you just GOTTA chip and pulley it man.. but if it will hurt youre insurance it might be best to wait. baby that charger and leave the upgrades for later... then when you're a little older wake up the beast! smaller pulley and a chip will give you loads of low down torque. lotta fun!

go with 5 spokes ;) 16s are a compromise between handling and appearance... 17s are just for show. 15s handle best/have better ride comfort. ok lets get into the big debate now! :lol:

try adjusting the shifter. it should slide straight up into 3rd gear with almost no effort.. if it doesnt it needs adjusting.

are you turning the plastic flatheat screw UNDER the tamper-proof cap... or are you turning the silver cap?

Aye but the Bosch one last 4-5 times longer!! exactly :thumb right: and when you pull the plugs every few weeks to check their condition and rich/lean condition of your setup they take quite well to a once-over with a wire-brush and good as new!

i agree.. a waste to cap it but thats what i did anyway. at least it saves the charger from all that extra heat until i get a proper 2nd intake worked out. if you're going to do a second inlet, get the air from a cool place or its useless. i'm planning on dropping the rad down and bringing cold air in right through the top of the grill. you can also run a pipe down into the fender under where the battery was (you'll have to move it and cut a hole)... like on the opposite side with the carbon cannister. you can just stick a filter on there but if its sucking hot air its basically useless. darren/g-werks has some pics and i believe he's working on a kit :D

for plugs you have two options.. do what skye did and get the NGK BPR6ES plugs and GAP THEM TO .024.. thats the cheap solution. if you want to do it right (and have a better quality plug) go to the stealer and ask for 4 spark plugs for a 1991 corrado G60. whatever spec they give is the ones you want.. i forget the part# exactly. they're something like $13 a piece but i wouldnt cheap out on plugs and you can always clean them with a wire brush.... you should be pulling them out every few weeks to see what they're looking like anyway... to know if you're running rich/lean... ya get that 1m hose for sure. i just replaced mine before my car crapped out again... and i put some heatshrink tube around the end that fits onto the throttle body nipple... thats where it tends to go to mush. a new 1m hose and a little bit of heatshrink and its all beefed up and wont cause you any more problems.