G60

isnt that the reiger grill like daz has on his ride, but with the top bar color keyed and the bottom two blacked out? eyebrow (or oettinger grill ) is a must.. makes the front end look even better and its subtle.

no the bearing itself wouldnt be different... basically its a clause they include so that if people fit tiny pulleys, the rebuilder is not liable for any damage caused. like john said.. fit the old pulley and take it back right away. i wouldn't drive it at all.

doesn't sound healthy steve. where was it rebuilt? did they send you the old bearings/strips back with the charger to prove they were replaced? if you were in north america i'd say send it to kk for a free inspection. maybe darren/g-werks over there can take a look at it for you.. you don't want that thing grenading if you just paid for a rebuild, they won't warrantee it, you put a small pulley on. :?

hmm.. you make good points dubster, if et30 sits farther *out* than et35 and people here have had no problems with et35.. then it makes no sense that the et30s wouldnt fit, unless the inner diameter of them is just too small.... stock calipers dan?

ya.. ours are smoothed but we have to mount a number plate over it, so its usually covered. we also have side markers in the actual bumper cover. here's my bumper, not on the car though.. side markers shaved and turn signal holes cut out larger for airflow (moved turn signals to the headlight running lights) http://g60.atx-hosting.co.uk/pic/june17/bumper.jpg

lol :thumb right: cheers for taking a look!

konis have been recommended the most. some bad ones have leaked ya.. but they shouldnt so you can have them replaced free of charge.

i think the avo's are known for being ridiculously hard... and the threads rust like a mofo if you dont grease them.

i figure the sock designer guy can do it, so why can't i? i'm at work.. i've just been working on a fall car care tips page for our website that will be sent out in our eLetter to about 2500 members.. was hoping a few of you could read it and let me know if i forgot anything obvious or offer any corrections. i tried to hit on all the main points.. i think i need to add something about checking the battery, but other than that... anyway here it is: Fall Car Care Tips thanks to anyone who has a read.. who knows maybe you'll learn something eh!! :lol: :lol: 8)

haha he's been at it since grade school then! i'd get the car out of there, take it to someone new who you trust and like someone here mentioned, try to get documentation of any shady worksmanship. but you're probably out of luck for getting any cash back.. might just have to cut your losses. could always balance things out with a well-thrown brick... sorry to hear about you luck, we've all had experiences like this. i paid $1800 (cdn) for a 'rebuilt' engine installation that was put in with BLOWN SEALS and the shop refused to do the seals when i came back just days later... unless i paid full price for the work which they said was half of what i paid for the install/engine! drove the car about 6 months, blew the head into two pieces and scrapped it. now everyone i know knows not to go to LITO'S AUTOMOTIVE in kitchener. :lol: spread the word on shady garages!! word of mouth, good or bad, does more to impact a business than anything else.

top three i'd do if it was my car: suspension.. drop it 30-60mm depending on your priorities. get a bodyshop to lay some clear over those taillights and then buff them to a shine (should really sand em down and get rid of the writting on them and then get them sprayed/cleared again). ditch the VR grill and get a debadged G60 grill. and i'd go for the smoked sidemarkers on your car.. not the clear. lookin good :)

ive never liked the reigers.. they always look bent and f-ed up. maybe if i saw a nice one in person i'd change my mind.

nice one daz. put the G60 grill back on mate (or put it on a ship headed this way) 8)

just lower it and it will look great. 17"s are too much compromise in the favour of looks over performance for me! i think you made the right choice.

..also worth noting skye.. the knock sensors in our cars are VERY sensative. especially if youre running a high boost setup and/or some extra timing, it may only *seem* that there is no knock, when in fact the knock sensor *is* retarding timing somewhat. try getting a bottle of octane boost in your tank and you'll see what i mean. higher octane level relates directly to less activity by the knock sensor during hard driving. less knock sensor activity means the ECU is not pulling out as much timing (ideally.. none at all) which means more oomph. it would be more accurate to say if you use your car as a grocery getter and "If you're not pinging or knocking with 98 RON you won't get any advantage from 100 RON." it's always better to run more octane (to a reasonable degree) in a car that is pushed hard.

you can run more timing and at hotter temps with 100 vs 98. the map should be fine Jet, especially if youve got a rechip. i don't think the map is dependant on the RON number, but rather whether the car will ping or not. 100 will just increase its resistance to pinging, so i can't see higher octane being a bad thing any way you slice it..

thats good to know, think i heard that before. i used to drop a bottle of octane boost when the car was running well (i wasnt taking things apart, etc) and i noticed a huge improvment, especially after the boosted gas would run out and i'd fill up with no booster.. "where'd the power go!?" gut feeling was there was something wrong, something retarding timing. i got used to running no booster, can't wait to try it with two or three bottles of the 'race formula 110' stuff :twisted: or maybe i should find a cheap toluene source!! :twisted: :twisted: sticker on the gas door only calls for 87 i believe it is! but with a chip in there minimum is 91 with more aggresive map.

highest you can get here is 94 :(

hi i'm christy. i drive a slammed black 16vG60, i'm blond, 5' 5", 36-24-36.. send me a private message and i'll send you some pics boys ;) ;) oh pay no attention to my signature. :lol: 8)

:? he could be right dan... i dont know my ass from my forehead with offset stuff, just trying to offer any advice i could. the offset needs to be either higher or lower though! :lol: et34 or 35 are the numbers i've heard for front offset... so whatever that means to you, higher or lower. :lol: :lol:

all service items you mentioned dan should be performed by the OWNER (ie: you). i say this for many reasons.. but the two main ones are.. why pay bend me over and fuck me stealership prices when you don't have to? and.. these are all very easy service items. doing regular service like this on the car yourself will not only save you some cash (which you will need, you own a corrado) but you will also learn about the car, become more in touch with it... and get a better feel for the condition of the engine components. ..and somehow, after doing the work yourself, the car is just that much more fun to take on a nice long joyride. after you do the full service yourself... take it to a reputable shop, have them give it a once over and provide a detailed description of any problems, recomended service, suggested action and price quotes... then you can source the parts yourself (see 'bend me over' above) and decide if its a job you can handle yourself (or with a friend). or if its too complex, have the shop do it. my 2c, back to work..

he's the supplier, its his responsibility to supply rims that fit. or else... what is he then? a middle man to collect 'X' amount on your purchase? you need a slightly higher offset..

should be able to hear a little with 9psi... you may need to shift higher in the rpms.. turn down the music :lol:

A8??? won't those sit far too high?

thats with kompressor kanada yes. i paid canadian cash tho so it was more then that for me! talk to daz, he can probably sort you a better deal as he's in UK and parts/knowledgable mechanics are more widely available in europe. you get what you pay for and you dont want to grenade that charger!!!!