oneohtwo

Ahhh yes! I would like to go OBD2. I had a thought to do it during the rebuild but then I thought changing/fixing too much at once would create more chance for things to go wrong. In hindsight that was probably the time to do it though. Although saying that with how rushed it was in the end, maybe it was best I didn't add too much more to the job list. Can't really do it now though... so will have to find a fix for the idle valve.

Asked Vince to fit this when I had it in for the ABS and he said he's never fully got to the bottom of what the actual issue is. He doesn't think it's fuel related because in the past they've tested fuel pressure prior to starting and it's been fine - yet the engine will still turn over for ages before firing. The only method thing he's got to work is to briefly turn the ignition, less than a second, so the engine just starts to turn over, then turn it off. It will then start fire first time if you turn the ignition on again. I think he said his suspicion was that it was an oddity with the ECU, but he couldn't be sure. He fitted the non-return valve anyway, and to be honest he's right it's not really made a difference. Just have to file under mysteries of the VR6...! Anyway, ABS pump is all refurbed and working fine, so one less thing to worry about. But then they did find the idle control valve was faulty. Think it was just coked up and sticking before, so they cleaned it up and it is better, but still doesn't seem to work properly 100% of the time. Have to try and keep cleaning it as there don't seem to be many spares about... only new one is by a brand called SKV, which I have never heard of.

Further update on that, picked the car up from Stealth on Sat - ABS pump all refurbed - but they also looked at this more and found the idle valve was sticking. The engine had been running fine with the pipe uncapped because that was the only way it was getting in air to idle. When they were capped off it was stalling and hunting when driving and coming to a stop because the idle valve wasn't working properly. They got it off and cleaned it up with carb cleaner and some oil to free it up a bit and it has helped. On testing they found it stalled once but then was OK, and said it may still do this but to try and keep cleaning the valve. Since getting it back I have found it stalled a few times so this needs more work. Unfortunately it's obsolete from VW, hence why the didn't just replace and they've had mixed results with ebay specials. Will have a look to see if there are any new decent brands available. So not quite an easy fix, but at least I know what's going on now and can fix another gremlin!

Dropped the car off to Stealth today after the ABS light started coming on again (then stopped) and they diagnosed a valve fault so they'll get the pump off and send it to be reconditioned. It was looking pretty old and worn so will be nice to have another piece reconditioned - bit more piece of mind!

Took it into Stealth today for an ABS fault and mentioned this to Vince - he said it was most likely the ECU had adapted to the leak, and then when the holes were covered couldn't respond. They sealed them off and reset the ECU so hopefully that solves that one.

That's some great info, didn't realise it was an after fit. Maybe there is still some air in the system, but not sure what more I could have done to bleed it. Left the cap off until basically the last minute when the level was starting to rise and ensured I was getting heat into the heater matrix. I'll try fitting the valve anyway and see if that makes a difference. In hindsight I wished I'd changed the aux pump when I was putting the engine back together. From memory I had replaced the original which was leaking all over the shop with what I think was a Meyle one that doesn't fit properly in the mounts. Still seems to work fine though and I didn't get the gurgling before.

This is interesting. I too noticed these were exposed just after my rebuild but the engine ran fine. On enquiring on here and finding they are usually capped off I sealed them as I didn't have the caps. After I did this the engine ran horribly - idled OK but if I lifted off the throttle it would start hunting at idle and then stalling. I assumed the original caps weren't supposed to be air tight but were just to stop dust getting in so I unsealed them again until I got the caps. Everything has run fine in the meantime although I thought it odd that this was just unmetered air getting in, but ordered the caps anyway. Unfortunately ordered the wrong caps so still waiting for the right ones, but why would I be getting the opposite result of everyone else? I am assuming it means something else isn't quite right, perhaps the throttle needs adjusting slightly for idle?

Yeah, I went through the bleeding procedure pretty thoroughly when I did a coolant flush so there shouldn't be any air in the system. I just stumbled on this thread by chance and the chaps who hadn't installed the valve were getting a gurgling noise which then went away after they did install it so I assume it is that. Sounds like it's not a major issue not to have it in anyway so not one of the urgent jobs! Interesting to know though.

Just found this thread, wondered why I was getting the gurgling from behind the dash so this makes sense. Fortunately I still have the old hoses so should be able to get the valve out - does anyone know if it is an issue not having it in the meantime?

Actually I made an error reading the water temp and it is just around 100 degrees sat in traffic, and that was over this hot weekend so pleased with that. And if 90 is all good for cruising then, seems like it's all working well! I would quite like to do something about the exhaust though, getting a bit fed up with the motorway drone, as much as I like how it sounds at low speed.

Sorry, no I should have said water temps. I think the oil gets a bit higher but can't remember. I think the temps are within acceptable range, although just under 90 when motorway cruising seems a little high - I just thought it odd it had gone up after a coolant flush when I expected it to go down if anything. I did notice it fluctuate a bit so maybe 40-55 mph it would be mid to low 80s, then 60+mph would be up to 90. Engine working a bit harder I suppose, but then more airflow over the rad. Ah thanks, I will look into this. I suspected it might be a fuel issue.

Bit of a small update- it's been a couple of months of driving around in it and am enjoying it! The engine is running smoothly, and feels nice and strong pulling away. Handling feels much improved with the B12s and the ride is certainly no worse. Still running the engine in as per Stealth's guide so up to 4000 rpm now. Will be nice when I can give it the full beans! Carried out a coolant flush at the weekend with the VW orange flush stuff, which is a pain in the arse having to wait for the engine to cool down each time. Anyway, definitely got some gunge and deposits out, but the effect on engine temps seems odd: A) At motorway cruising temp seems to have gone up compared to before and sits at just under 90. I'm sure was at closer to 80 before B) In traffic seems to have come down slightly from 110 to about 108 I wonder if A) is perhaps because the rad sensor was covered in deposits so slightly insulated and reading lower than the actual temp, hence a perceived increase? The only thing I did notice was that usually when I got out of the car I could instantly feel the heat radiating from the engine bay and that wasn't the case this time so maybe it has improved cooling. The thread post where I put the Hella radiator in says it was sitting at 90 in traffic and the engine was old then. May have been being optimistic but seems odd, as before the rebuild it was definitely getting hotter than that. Only had 1 run in it since doing that so will keep an eye on it and see how it goes. Couple of other minor niggles: 1) Oil is leaking from around the sump gasket. Annoying as it was a new gasket, torqued correctly and I used some gasket seal 2) Got an intermittent starting issue whereby the car starts instantly from cold, instantly if straight after stopping, but if left for a few hours it struggles. Takes a few seconds of turning over then struggles into life, spluttering a bit before idling properly. It used to do this but I didn't expect it to keep doing this since the rebuild. Any ideas? Anyway, arty shiny engine bay pic:

Well, that looks absolutely stunning.

That's got me nervous now! haha. Had a go and it seemed to pop out OK, but then I could only slide it freely a couple of cm back and couldn't rotate it. As I pushed it back the inner panel lifted up in the guides as though the sunroof was tilting, and then it wouldn't go any further. Was reluctant to force it so left it to do more research. Will have another go, sounds like I just need to keep applying a bit more oomph

Cool, thanks, will give it ago without the tool. Does it just clip back into place easily enough?

The lining on my sunroof panel has started pealing away so I need to get it out to repair, and ideally don't want to remove the whole thing. I've watched the Ed China Wheeler Dealer video and he uses a special VW white tool that hooks into the panel, and then he gives it a good tap to release the lining panel which is then slid out. Is this right, there's no other screws to undo? He hasn't got the lining out at this stage so it seems so - but it just seems a bit drastic and I don't want to damage the sunroof! Then how does it clip back in, is it just a reverse bash with the same tool?!

Sounds like you've got this in hand - but if you needed I can send you the CAD files I made for my shroud. I have tweaked them since I made mine as it needed a bit of fettling, but it fits 2 11" fans. I sent it off to a laser cutting company and they cut and folded it for about £14. Don't know if you'd have access to a similar online supplier? The fixings are for slimline Comex fans though, so don't know if you can get those over there. They pull about 960 cfm max at zero static pressure, so a bit less than Shaun's hefty effort! That's the difference with going slimline I think, plus only 11" compared to 12", so I wouldn't worry too much if the ones you were looking at were around that level. Also I think the two 12" SPAL fans you were comparing might have been a super-low profile straight blade and just a low profile curved blade. I think the equivalent low profile straight blade fan pulls 1097 cfm looking a the catalogue, so still less but not quite so much of a difference. Might be worth double checking what you've got - might not be as bad as it seems and would save some hassle sending it back.

It's a good question and to be honest - it's hard to say! I did the fans at the same time as I did the engine rebuild so I haven't got a direct comparison on a fresh engine. They are the same size as the stock fans (11"); you might just be able to squeeze in 12" if you wanted to go bigger. Currently my engine temp sits at about 100 C in slow moving traffic in this weather which is OK I think. To be honest I thought it would be a little bit better than that what with the engine rebuild, but I don't know what would be considered low and high temps; however, I'm sure you'd get this with a stock fans as well. When I first got the car 10 years ago I am sure it ran fairly cool in traffic, around 90-100 (memory might be playing tricks there though!). I'm sure other people could confirm but 100 doesn't seem wildly low or beyond the realms of the OEM ones, but then who knows, if I had stuck with OEM fans I might be getting temps of 110 or so. I did have issues with engine temps sitting in traffic for long periods in the couple of years before I started the rebuild, to the point where the engine would start to run badly, and be on the verge of cutting out. But that was with a tired old engine so not really a good comparison. I also need to do an engine flush as I think deposits have built up in the rad (the old pipes I took off were coated) which won't help, so the fans might be battling against that. For the moment I am a little bit sceptical about whether it was worth it: It was a bloody hassle to sort (although would be a lot easier now I've done it once and got a guide), it's not really that much lighter (if you were thinking of that - about 1kg less), and doesn't seem to be greatly cooler. Think they might be a little bit quieter.

Well, quite! I'll give one of the plastic ones ago I think.

It's not a wet lay CSM by the looks of it though - looks like some vacuum forming has taken place. I'd be confident of getting a better finish tbh, if I had the time and space, but it's not so much that, It's more the glue everywhere where the fixings have been attached that is off putting. I don't know, maybe I'm being overly picky. I probably wouldn't mind the back, if the front was perfect.

The spoonfed tuning one arrived from Heritage and I think I am going to send it back to be honest as the quality is pretty poor. It doesn't have nice flat finish, has marks here and there, and looks like odd bits of dirt or dust have settled into the gelcoat. The back is also pretty roughly finished as are some of the cut outs. OK you won't see the back and some of the marks would be hidden by the numberplate, but for that sort of money I expect the finish to be spot on.

Where does this all happen on facebook? Whenever I go onto the corrado pages there's never any activity.

That's the one. I should read the description more carefully, as it does say Spoonfed in that! Odd the description says carbon fibre, but the details say it is fibreglass. Will find out when it arrives I guess..

I'm not sure, it doesn't say exactly, but it is fibreglass and from the US so I guess so.

Ah shame, no worries chap! Did try searching myself as well, but as you say... Saw these as well. As much as I like carbon, I don't think I want it for the number plate plinth. As I need it fairly soon, I think I'll go with the Heritage one. At least I will finally have my gloss black plinth which doesn't have paint lifting on it! Thanks everyone for the help.