oneohtwo

Ah, found one, and yes it does have the VW stamp, so FTE is the OEM manufacturer then I guess:

The listing didn't mention anything about being recon, just said new, so I would hope it was, but I suppose can't be sure. It did have some hard stamp on it: You can just make out an 80 but the Sachs part number was just printed on, so I don't know. That link does look the same, unfortunately I don't have a photo of the other side of it where the VW number would be. I am sure I remember it having a VW stamp on it. Will see if I can spot it in any other photos.

Mine is a late car and doesn't have the long bracket. I also noticed it in the Bentley and wondered what it was for! I bought a Sachs slave cylinder on the basis the clutch/pressure plate was also Sachs as recommended by Stealth, so in my head made sense to match! I saw the TRW ones available as well and would have happily gone for those as well, although I think was a little pricier than the Sachs from memory. Not sure on the OEM. I assumed my old one was OEM but have had a look at comparison photos I took and it seems to be FTE brand - so not sure. Slave Cylinder, clutch FTE KN23021F1 - Buy at AUTODOC This is it so doesn't look OEM if on Autodoc, although pricy (when available) compared to the Sachs/TRW. Who knows. Here's it side by side with the Sachs: Sachs is the shiny one! it was a fair bit weightier than the FTE.

Thanks both, you're right it's certainly not a major disaster and everything else passed alright so fairly pleasing all in all. If I'd have had another couple of days at the old house I'm sure I could have sorted it but just ran out of time. Car had to be moved from the drive on Monday morning whatever happened. Bit of shame as it sounds like it should be an easy fix, but it's with the MOT garage and as they found a leak they'll have to top up and re-bleed, so they should sort it. In some ways quite nice to have someone else deal with it! The other positive was that the carbon fibre rad support holds the engine up OK it would seem. I propped it with axle stands under the brackets at either end and wedged with some wood before undoing the bumper bolts. The wood was in pretty tight but wasn't taking any weight and when I undid the bolts they remained free to move which means the carbon fibre was still carrying the full weight of the engine. So that's reassuring.

Ah interesting about Monroe, good to know it's not something super cheap on the car! MOT failed on the brakes which I knew it would in the end so no surprise, but only the brakes so semi-positive. The technician did find a small brake fluid leak at the brake line connection to the ABS pump so hopefully it is just that. They are going to look at it and see if that fixes things. I also realised I didn't bleed the ABS unit itself - everything just got a bit too manic trying to get the thing running before we moved, what with the brake calliper issue and then the fan wiring. The last couple of weeks have been stressful! In one sense hopeful that it is an easy fix, but also annoying I didn't see it myself! Especially as I did look around to check for leaks... Possibly only really manifested itself after repeated use though.

I wasn't happy with the brakes in the end, felt far too spongy so got it towed. Have read that there can be issues with the ABS unit if it gets drained so thinking that might have happened when I changed the brake lines. Unfortunately just ran out of time to try and sort as we moved house at the weekend so had to get the car running and out of there! They're going to run through the MOT anyway to pick up anything else, and then will have to get it to a garage to sort. Stealth is maybe a bit far from me to get it towed though unfortunately...

Ah thanks, good bit of info! Hmm, I don't recall having any so maybe they were never there. Perhaps I can stick something over I'm the meantime. Not sure what effect it would have leaving them uncovered... It would be letting a small amount of unmetered air into the manifold and maybe the brake servo isn't getting the correct pressure? I guess that makes sense that they use the same bit of pipe for cars with the exhaust thingy, but just cap the hoses off for those without?

Thanks everyone! Such a nice feeling - looking forward to taking it out on a nice drive but MOT tomorrow first. Couple of nervy moments. First fuel starting spraying out of the fuel rail plug, all over my nicely repainted slam panel, grr! Then there was an alarming amount of smoke from down by the exhaust manifolds, but after 10-15 mins this seemed to burn off so I think was just some paint or new materials off-gassing under heat for the first time. Rang a mechanic who said the same. But seems to run quite smoothly now! Here she is outside the garage for the first time in 2 years... The bonnet is so dusty it looks a different colour! Really needs a thorough clean, which might be next weekend's job. Doesn't look too much lower at the front on the B12s than I remember on stock but maybe just needs time to settle a bit? Rears are as they were as I ran out of time to put the B12s on, and they don't look markedly different. Noticed the existing rear shocks were labelled Munroe. Never heard of them before. The slimline fans run OK as well which is a relief - will post about that in the other thread though. Couple of things: 1) The brake pedal travels along way. I remember it always used to but can't remember if it was this much. There's not a lot of feel, but the brakes do come on and stop the car on a slope alright. Don't know if that's also to do with switching to 288s at the front, or if it was always like that. 2) Anyone know what the two prongs on the vacuum hose that runs to the inlet manifold are for or if they should connect to anything. These fellas: When I was putting it all back together I noticed them and thought they should connect to something but I have nothing. Now I can hear them sucking in air, and can't remember that before (although the engine could just have been noisier). They look like some other hoses should connect, and it looks like on US cars these might hook up to an exhaust recovery valve that sits next to the ISV, but I've got absolutely nothing left over. No spare pipes or valves that would go here.

It runs!

That's a pretty good deal. What's the difference with the mk4 calipers? In the end the Amazon one arrived and no surprises in a plain cardboard box with just Made in China stamped on it. Could be absolutely fine, but also cheap. I wasn't happy taking the risk and did also think if I am changing one caliper I should do both, so I went down the ECP route as the only other option. Got some money off with a discount code so just over £200 in all, and found they are actually remanufactured OEM ones so happy about that. The mk4 upgrade will have to wait a little while now, but if they are new calipers hopefully won't have any issues. Have to say I am not looking forward to bleeding them but I have one of those Eezibleed kits so hopefully won't be too painful... Other than that I am pretty well there. Car currently looks like this: Tidied up and resprayed the slam panel as best I could the other week. Incredible amount of rust gets underneath it... doesn't seem a likely place really. Flatted down a bit but couldn't get rid of all the orange peal which is a shame. Just don't have time to go to town on it, but it's better than it was! Only thing holding me up now is the slimline fans and trying to sort the wiring. I cocked up the wire order and got wires too large for the fittings so am just waiting on some more. To be honest I am not sure they have been worth the hassle... they certainly don't weigh all that much less all in, so hopefully they will just be more efficient and quieter. If I hadn't taken apart the old motor I think I would just put that back on, for now at least.

All good points. I ordered the shite Amazon one to give me the option. Can just send it back if I don't use it. I think if I am going to get new decent calipers I would want to do the Mk4 upgrade, which I would have to do at a later date, so a temporary fix is the goal for now. First in gonna try to find a mechanic open tomorrow morning who might do it. If not I'll use the Amazon one for the time being and get the upgrade parts together for the Mk4. Unless it's made of cardboard. In which case I'll spend the money at ECP. They'd actually only be £130 if I exchanged my old ones, but it's still a fair whack. I wouldn't really want to spend that much to get a new caliper only to then junk it a few months after to do the upgrade, so that would take that off the table. And if I am keeping it I may as well do both sides. Although if doing that I'd rather get one of the Bosch/TRW ones available on eBay for half the price but needs must I suppose.

Just thinking the Schimmel cams are Stateside so I'd have thought there was someone (if not just Schimmel) doing a similar remap service as Stealth to go with them. Perhaps worth talking to Bill at Schimmel for a bit of advice - he might be able to offer something a bit nearer?

I have managed to get the calliper off, so new plan is to hopefully find a local garage open tomorrow I can drop it off at and see if they can replace the valve. Possible alternative is I found some no-brand brand (Frankberg... nope, me neither) on Amazon which could be delivered tomorrow. Brake Caliper Rear Right for Golf III IV Passat Polo Sharan Vento Cordoba Galaxy 1988-2010 1H0615424A: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike Was thinking could get that, stick it on the car as a temporary measure to get it up and running then get proper new ones all-round. Even as a temporary measure I'm a bit loathe to risk some no-mark nonsense brand though... Actually EuroCarParts has Pagid calipers in stock. £180... which is a bit steep but at least it is a relatively decent known brand.

Hmmm, yes hat's not a bad idea. They do look in a pretty sorry state. Found a nice rotten bit of the arch as well when I was under there which will need looking at at some point... joy! I don't think I have enough time to get the parts together for the Mk4s so I may have to just get this sorted, then think about the upgrade later.

Ah, yes I replaced the front lines, but had to disconnect the rear lines at the ABS unit in order to get the clutch line out and the replacement in (different story). Do you think it needs a whole new calliper and not just a new bleed valve? To be honest I was concerned about getting the old bit out - normally it could be drilled out but I don't see how you could prevent debris from entering the cylinder.

I'm not quite following, sorry. Why would it snap off if there was no air in the system? I had the brake lines off at the other end and the reservoir is empty so won't air likely get trapped when I refill?

I don't have a torch unfortunately, but the problem was I was able to get a bit of force on it... So much so it sheared off!

Ta! I Trying to put my own personal touch on things. Bit of a shitter of a day though... was time to start bleeding the brakes. Went to undo the rear brake bleed nipple, but it was so seized it sheared off. I knew everything was going a bit too smoothly... am in a big bind as well as we are moving house on Tuesday and the new place doesn't have a garage. Was always up against it time pressure wise so couldn't afford anything like this. If I had more time I could drill it out and get a new one, but realistically think the only option is to arrange a tow to a garage and get them to do it. Bit gutted.

That makes sense. Shame there isn't a dipstick or something to let you know the level... Nothing I can do about it in reality anyway. Can't physically get any more in and I wouldn't know how much more to safely put in anyway.

Yes, exactly. There's a little plastic cap on it that's fairly loose fitting: When I was tipping it up to get to the underside a little leaked out of there. Not loads mind.

Old topic, but I've had a similar issue as this chap and was after a second opinion. Just gone to change the gearbox oil as it was old, and some had leaked out when I was cleaning the gearbox case (out of the little plastic cap on the gear shifter housing - not sure if this is meant to happen??). Poured in about 1.5l of MT-90 (300ml left in second bottle by weight) until I noticed it dribbling out - pulled out the funnel but then a good steady trickle ran out for a few minutes without the funnel there. Question is I now have 1.5 l minus x ml that has dribbled out, so I don't know how much is in there. Car is ostensibly level - I checked with a spirit level and the gearbox seemed level, although have checked again and there is an almost imperceptible tilt forwards, 2 degrees maybe which feels like it is in the realms of tolerance for most "flat" surfaces. When I undid the fill plug nothing really came out - there was a slight run mark on the case when I came back to it but nothing major. Do I assume that there is near enough 2l (whatever old oil didn't drain out plus what I put in) in there because it wouldn't have drained out otherwise? I suppose the question is more to reassure my own mind as there's no realistic way I can get that gearbox perfectly level so not much I can do about it!

Thanks! It's actually the manifold powder coated. Was trying to replicate the classic crackle finish you see on most exotic Italian cars' cam covers and some classics, but felt grey suited VW more than black or some bright red. Had the logo and lettering cut out in aluminium and stuck on to make it look like cast. Annoyingly if you look closely there is a slight gap on some letters that I should have filled in but thought the powder would do it, which slightly mars the effect!

Got all the wire and clips ready to sort and had a shroud made for the new fans. My plan is to mount the resistors on a panel fixed to the side of the mount between the upper and lower hoses: Where I have taken the shroud around under the bottom of the radiator it rests on the radiator cross member (where the green tape is, which is a bit annoying. Too late to change now, and if I cut the bottom flange off I don't think the shroud will have enough stiffness. I can't see it being a problem, but it just feels like it should be kept clear like the original?

I am very, very close to having the re-build finished! So couple of pictures to round up things up a bit: Tidied up manifolds on. Slightly scratched the inner coating on the studs when I was wrestling them on, so I guess that coating won't last long. Ah well.. Got the new bit of heat shield on to smarten up the back of the bay: And something of a pièce de résistance, that makes the VR6, the upper manifold on: Been looking forward to getting that on for an absolute age. Feels like the engine is pretty well complete and on the home straight! Fitted all the ISV gubbins, throttle body and intake bits as well: My plan was to leave all the plastic trim off the top of the block, but I forgot how untidy the VR6 looks with all the ancillary bits, like the ISV and the coil pack, stuck on. So I think I will put the side trim on, and maybe the rear. Will see how it looks. Obviously will leave the plastic cover off with the manifold done up, and probably the front wire guide as well. I am now just waiting for a couple of hoses from Roose which should be arriving early next week to finish off the engine bay. Then I need to sort the slimline fans on the radiator - got a shroud sorted so should just be a case of hooking up the wiring, and then fit the B12s on the rear once it's off the axle stands again. After that it's just a case of crossing fingers and hoping it runs!

Yeah, hard to say - like you say it has a whiff of snake oil about it to me as well. The power increase claim doesn't make sense to me, maybe peak power is sustained longer under hard driving as the air coming in stays colder in theory, but how would it actually increase it? To be honest I left as I already had the gaskets and had fitted one. Didn't really want to wait any longer to get the rest of the engine back together, but thought I'd put it out there in case anyone else wants to give it a go.