oneohtwo

That looks stunning! Is that Aqua or Midnight blue? The black wheels really set it off.

Yeah, after it was first put on I found it was leaking fuel all over the top of the tank. I had driven it a few times and kept thinking I could smell fuel. Only noticed it started dripping all over the road. Not good. Tightened the clips up and it has been fine since, but now it's always at the back of my mind that it's another potential area for a leak.

If it was me doing it again I probably wouldn't put the valve in to be honest. I had one put in on mine and regret it somewhat.

Cheers, I'll give this guy a call. I am taking it into a local classic car place for a look over, but will see if this guy can help as well.

22mm is correct on the spindle nuts. Maneuvering it out is a pain - it takes a bit of wiggling in just the right way. For a while it will seem like it won't come out, then miraculously just does! Are you painting yours with the U-Pol plastic range? Unfortunately with ine it seemed like water had got under the paint (or my prep wasn't good enough) and a load of small blow holes had formed, which was a bit annoying. Did a quick respray on the car, but the results aren't as good as they were.

Good point on the run in! 😄 Mine will have only had a couple of thousand. Yup, same for the me on the warm start so interesting to see how you get on with the fuel pump. i haven't really looked at the fuel pump so can't help on the cracked palstic bit - but I can understand being reluctant to take apart a £200 part. Good luck though!

Ah thanks for the update. I did go to a paintless dent removal chap, and he just blanket came back to say he couldn't do them. I meant to follow up with him, because it seemed an odd thing to say! He was a highly rated one as well, so that reminds me! It may have been that he was saying because the paint was damaged you can't do a paintless repair (obviously!) but not all of the dents are scraped.

Ah thanks, looks nice. Similar curves to mine (as you'd expect), although peaks are a little bit higher. The graph is in my thread if you're interested. Mine was 215 HP and 209 ftlbs peaks - I can't say I am disappointed with the results as like you say it drives so much but I remember hoping it'd hit 220! Stealth re-bored my block and added new pistons and rings which I thought might provide bit more oomph. I always wonder what accounts for these little variances - mine was also a hot day, 27C but a bit more humid, so that might make a difference. Just the vagaries of engines I guess! Mr Injector is great for injectors, he did mine as well. On the warm start issue I think the only things I haven't done to mine that you did to your white one is the fuel pump and the cam and crank sensors - so maybe that would narrow it down a bit?

Do you have your power charts you could post? I have the 263s and a remap as well, so would be interested to see how they compare. I had the head refurbed as well, and took the time to grind off some of the worst casting flashing in the inlet runners (although I suspect this wasn't worth the effort!) Let us know if you have any luck with the warm start issue! I had a good chat with Vince @ Stealth and in all his years he's never got to the bottom of it, other than a suspicion it's somehow the ECU.

I have run the Rainsports (16" 205/45) for about 10 years and generally quite happy with them. Tread pattern looks nice, if you like that sort of thing! However, I was considering trying an, on paper, quieter tyre. I think a lot of the cabin noise I get at high speed is the tyre noise, so it is possible the Rainsports are a noisier tyre, but I don't have a direct comparison to say for certain. Not sure on going to 215/40. I don't think I'd want a tyre that is that much harder - it's not like the ride is jarring; you hear the bumps more than feel them I find, and they're very noticeable. Especially when you get back in after a more modern car.

No, I don't actually do the 3D printing, I don't have printer. I've just been able to model things in 3D and then source it to an online 3D printer. Unfortunately most of these have a minimum order value so I have to get them in batches of 20 or so.

I should be able to do another batch of these as there are a few people who have requested them now, so I will look to do that. I'm interested to know whether anyone who bought any of the last batch managed to fit them OK and if they worked alright?

Can't help with the battery unfortunately, but did you get your turbo back up and running?

No probs! I hope they work for everyone else as well as they have for me. Not sure to be honest - I didn't really look into these. Sorting the connecting rod seemed to sort everything, and the other bits seemed pretty solid. I don't see why it wouldn't be possible though.

Thought I'd just add a short guide to installation, based on my experience: Needed: 1x M12 washer 1 x Socket (or short hollow tube) Vice or something else to press the new bushes in Circlip pliers 1. With the wiper mechanism off the car take note of the crank position on the motor, as this is the stop position, and you'll need to make sure everything is back in this position before putting back on the car. 2. Remove the crank from the motor by undoing the central M10 (I think) nut. This isn't done up tightly, but the crank might need levering off the spindle. 3. Make note of which way around the connecting rod attaches to the ball joints Remove the connecting rod/link arm from the wiper mechanism. Given how loose these are now, it should come off fairly easily. Remove the crank as well. WARNING: Before proceeding make sure you're happy to go ahead as once the old bushes are removed there is no going back. 4. You will then need to remove the old bushes in some manner. I used a screwdriver to just gouge them out, but however you do this they will get destroyed, so see warning above. 5. Next place the M12 washer over the flange of the bush. The little raised bit in the middle is 12mm dia. so this should just clip on and more or less hold in place. The washer is to protect the plastic being damaged when it is compressed into the hole so is quite important. 6. Slot the bush into the hole. It will just push in up to the end of the circlip slot. Make sure you push these in the right way, You want the flange on the outside face of the connecting rod, the opposite side from the ball joint. Also note they don't go in the same way around, one faces "out" the other faces "in" 7. Line it up in a vice or press with a socket on the opposite side (or something hollow) to allow the bush to push through. ensure the washer is still in place and wind it in. It should go in easily, but firmly. Give it a good press to make sure the circlip slot is all the way through. 8. The bush should be securely held in the connecting rod, so now add the circlip. Repeat for the other end. 9. Insert the ball joint into the open ends and place in vice with M12 washer still in place. I usually start with the crank as this is easier to handle. A bit of silicon lube on the ball joint will help. This can be a bit fiddly, but I found that (with the washer still in place) winding the ball joint in a short way until it is gripped then undoing the vice and putting the socket over the washer makes it easiest to handle. You will want the socket (this time on the washer/flange side) to allow the flat top of the ball joint to poke through. Once all lined up, carefully wind the ball joint in. It should go in easily, but with a bit of resistance. You should be able to feel it give a bit once the ball joint is properly located. If you remove and give it a wiggle it should seat itself. 10. Repeat for the other end. Fitting the ball joint on the wiper mechanism is one of those three handed jobs, but just needs a bit of patience. 11. Line up the crank in the position you noted in point 1 and reattach to the motor. I don't have torque values for the nut on the motor but I don't think it needs to be too tight. 12. Refit. I think Cressa added some torque values in the other thread for the spindle bolts. The wipers should now be able to be positioned just inside the shaded area of the windscreen, both level, and not hit the scuttle, or the A pillar.

Thanks everyone, I'll start PM'ing you and getting these sent out over the next week. By my count, I have takers for 10 pairs and just 9 available at present. So on a first come first basis, @easypops would you mind waiting a bit longer? It will take a bit of time to get another batch printed, but it will give a bit more time to see if there's a few more takers as well.

I am pleased to be able to offer replacement bushes for the wiper link arm/connecting rod. The OE link arm has some plastic bushes pressed in and, I think for most of us, these have worn badly over the years resulting in a lot of slack in the system. The result being the wipers have a lot of play in them and will tend to foul either the scuttle, or the A-pillar. These items will replace the OE bushes in the connecting rod and remove the slack in the system, meaning the wipers can be positioned correctly and will no longer foul anything. They are 3D printed using the multi-jet fusion (MJF) process in PA12 Nylon. I do not know what the OE bushes are made from but Nylon is known for it's hard wearing and self lubricating properties, so is often used in bearing applications. Being 3D printed the parts have a grainy finish, but this does not appear to hamper their operation. They are likely not quite as strong as an moulded equivalent (i.e. the originals) but are strong enough and the porous surface probably means they won't last quite as long. I have run these on my car for a few months over winter and they have held up well, but this is of course not a product developed by a large manufacturer, and I can make no guarantees about long term use, so caveat emptor applies. I suggest therefore, at this point, we treat these as almost a disposable item for replacement as and when necessary, and they are fitted with a retaining circlip so can easily be removed and replaced. I have a batch of 9 pairs available to start with which I will offer at £6.50 per pair which is more or less covering my costs, including postage. They are designed to work with this circlip: 15mm External Circlips (DIN 471) - Marine Stainless Steel (A4) (accu.co.uk) I can supply these as well, but this will increase the cost to £20.00 per pair. After the first 9 have gone, I will see how many more takers there are for getting another batch printed. Unfortunately there is a minimum order value which slightly pushes the prices up. If there's only 1 or 2 further takers I don't think I can really cover the expense, so the cost might go up, but we'll see.

Well, they got a bit of a test in real world conditions yesterday and all seemed well. I had the previous set on since Jan for a few months through the winter and didn't come across any issues so I think we are all good. I'll put a post up in the parts for sale section.

Good work, that looks it, although I notice I don't have a washer for the wiper arm. One thing I have noticed is how easily the metal washer that goes underneath the rubber grommet deforms. It's pretty thin and only bearing against the four shoulders of the spindle and against soft materials on the other side, so if you over tighten it deforms. I'm not sure what the torque settings are for the this but previously I had been really tightening these up to try and take out some of the slop (until I realised it was the link arm). As a result these washers were pretty wavy - I straightened them out and now just nip the nuts up until they are a bit firm, but no more. I was tempted to replace these with a thicker washer, but didn't have any of the right size spare.

Got the wipers back on the car and all seems to work fine with no slop on the fastest setting. I have some videos of it working which I'd like to share but they won't upload. Not sure if there is something special I need to do for this? Anyhow, ideally I would like to make sure it works OK under real conditions with a drive and some rain but really I can't see how there would be any issue as the previous lot were absolutely fine and these aren't really any different apart from the circlip.

Thanks both. Yeah I have just been using 10w-40 semi-synth since the engine rebuild. My assumption was the same that they've seen the 24Vs as there's probably more of those, and they aren't aware the Corrado is a 12v. Well it sounds like 5w-40 will be OK for now and isn't going to cause any major damage. Engine is a couple of years old since the rebuild, but mileage on it is fairly low so hopefully everything is still good and tight. I'll just make sure they change it to 10w-40 next year.

Not too many posts in here for a while but I'll try anyway. The garage I took my car for servicing put a 5w-40 in when changing the oil, instead of 10w-40. When questioned they said that that was the one that came up most in their searches for a VR6. I suspect that's for the later versions, but anyway, was just checking that was OK. Post above seems to suggest it's OK for a newly rebuilt engine, which mine is, but still wasn't sure if it's too thin. The used Shell Helix Ultra fully synthetic, so it is a decent oil at least.

I have double checked, and actually I do have the grommits - they are clipped into the body work flange, so don't come off with the spindle which is why I couldn't remember them. I still think it's a bit of an odd mounting, and don't hundred percent see how it is clamped in the hole. The spindle just seems to be clamped to itself! There doesn't seem to really be much on the underside to stop it pulling through the hole... I presume the metal washer is just large enough. I have also noticed even with the metal washer the 4 lugs on the spindle tend to deform the plastic spacer. On the bushes, I have made some good progress with these, if you check the other thread!

I think we have a winner! I redesigned the circlip option above to fit the spring type of circlip, as the sizes weren't really working with the e-clip type, and that has worked a lot better. Helps I got the measurements correct as well! I widened the diameter of the shaft as well, so that is now a good tight fit in the link arm, so they are held fast and don't spin in the hole. Everything goes together nicely, and the cirlips appear to hold everything in place fully. Interestingly the ball joint has a free-er range of movement than the previous push in type. I am not sure why this the case, unless the push in type were squashed slightly by being pushed in. They aren't loose though, so the linkages are all still nice and tight. They are grey rather than white because I used MJF printing instead of SLS as MJF apparently handles fine detail better. I can't say I can see a lot of difference though. Being grey they also appear rougher than the white ones, but there isn't really any difference. I haven't put this back on the car yet, so they haven't been fully tested, but I can't see why there would be any issues. Once I have put them back on and give them a bit of a test I will put them up for sale on here. Don't want to offer them up just yet until I have checked them to my satisfaction. Photos below:

I'd have thought if the thermostat was stuck closed the engine would overheat pretty soon after setting off, and wouldn't sit at 80 in constant driving. I don't have a 16v so don't know the usual temperature range but my VR will get to around 100 when in traffic, so 110 for the smaller engine does seem a bit high. Perhaps the fan is a bit knackered so not pulling enough air through, or not speeding up (again, I don't know what the different fan speeds are for a 16v) and perhaps the radiator could do with a good flush? If you've only just bought it, who knows how long the coolant has sat in the system!