aide

yikes - that's kjet motronic me thinks :) kjet does not have that solenoid, connector or black sender thing!! considering i don't know the motronic.... i believe you've id'd the system pressure correctly, not sure where the cold start comes from....! however, the one that turns a left angle and then goes into the top of the metering head is the control pressure, trace this line back to the warm up regulator and then back to the metering head to determine the feed for the warm up regulator - but saying that i can only see five lines leaving the metering head 1 per cylinder, 1 wur and ??? I'll have a check in the book tonight and let you know this evening or tomorrow morning!

by lifting the metering flap up your allowing the fuel to pass to the injectors, and as such you've eliminated a blockage in the metering head and the injectors. when starting of the key the engine should create sufficient vacuum to 'lift' the metering flap and provide said fuel, the cold start valve kick starts this vacuum by providing an alternative fuel source when the engine is cold. one cause of this symptom is that your control pressure is to high, and this is preventing the metering flap from lifting and providing the fuel - however I can't see how this would have adjusted with the works you did, allthough a blockage in this system could cause problems, but getting into that will blow my brain! when i hadn't started my valver for a few weeks i used to have to crank it continuosly for about a minute or two before it eventually fired, it used to fire of one or two cylinders then die, then chug a bit and eventually rev properly - it would start and idle fine from then on when started regularly - dunno why it was just one o dem thangs. you can try testing the control pressure, it's the pipe that ubends into the top of the metering head, at/ below 50degs should be 16psi. other useful fuel pressure figures for kjet below. Cold Control Pressure 50deg F = 16psi, 75deg F = 24psi, 100deg F = 32psi System Pressure 68 – 78 psi Warm Control Pressure 49 – 55 psi Rest Pressure 35 psi check the cam/ cam, crank and distrib timing visually by removing the rubber half moon things, but the distributor *shouldnt* be that far out that it won't start pm me once you have the car started and i'll let you know how to adjust the pressures further for performance purposes :)

doh throttle switch.... that makes sense - good to get it sorted tho and it *shouldn't* cost you a packet!

the co2 adjustment screw just really finely moves the metering flap up and down - definetely DON'T turn though as your o2 levels were probably fine to begin with and you'll mess the settings up if you turn!! I always found I could move the flap up and down using an allan key in the adjustment hole, you're best bet is to wiggle the metering flap with the rubber inlet bend removed first! there is an accumulator after the external fuel pump which is like a one way valve, if working correctly this should maintain the fuel pressure whenever the fuel system is shut down. if the diaphragm is ruptured in this device this can cause starting problems as the pump has to do all the work

those priming and cranking pressures seem fine iirc, mine was set at 5bar. the fuel vapour coming out the manifold is probably from the cold start valve, which assuming this is direct fuel feed means you have fuel circulation to the bottom section of the fuel distributor. to confirm it is this cold start fuel vapour simply pull of the blue connector and there should be no vapour when cranking. i'd be inclined to pull all the injectors to confirm none of them are spraying. if so then it's likely you've got no fuel geting to the top half of the fuel distributor. as bcstudent has pointed out give the metering flap a vigurous wiggle (before cranking) to see if this makes a difference, you 'should' feel the fuel being 'pumped' on the up motion if the fuel plunger isn't stuck - of course when cranking you'll need two people, and you'll need the co2 adjustment alan key so you can do it whilst the rubber bend is connected, you risk sucking up loose crap otherwise! my guess is a bit of dirt in the fuel distributor, they're so finely machined it would be easy to foul up one of the tiny holes. i've spent half my rado life with these problems! sounds like you need a new filter though, you'll notice a difference in the sound of your pump with a new filter - easy enough to change too

reaper - did you reconnect the broken lambda that was identified for you in a separate post, as that is a likely cause.

aye sorry, probably won't (unless i get stuck!) thanks for opportunity anyway!

thanks kev, sounds good. is there anyway you can confirm the motor you had in your pump housing will fit inside mine!? had a butchers last night and the part number of my pump (housing) is the later model - 535 919 051D. for everyones info, and from reading on here the earlier model pumps are 1HO 919 651Q for the pump, and 1HO 919 673F for the sender.

'watch this item' engine cut out for the fifth time this morning after driving for 5-10 minutes, so that's twice in two days which is more frequent than it had been, and both times I'v been showing just above red on the tank level - seemed rather coincidental so I filled up and did a hundred mile trip this afternoon - no bother at all. still, going to change the pump this weekend, if it solves all well and good, if not at least those faults are crossed off the list. I'll move onto the engine sensors then! One last thing! I've done a serch and there is some confusion re pumps, general understanding is 'later' vr6 pumps had white plastic top and were made by VDO - you don't have to buy the sender for these(?). 'earlier' pumps had a different top and you do need to purchase the sender for these. i'll carry on reading but if someone knows for cerain let me know! thanks for help all.

alright :D it's aide the guy you bought the car and head off! have been meaning to get in touch as i have the alloy wheel locking nut in my toolbox, found it last week - pm your address and i'll send it over :D hope the cars running well, i got a vr which cuts out at 80mph, should never have sold the valver - see other thread :D re the head, you not fitted it yet?!?!? in basic terms all i did was to gas flow the inlet, basically removing all the casting marks down the channels and through the ports, smoothed the entrance and 'divider' from channel into ports, took small amounts of material from around the ports, particularly on the inelet elbows which are pretty angled in standard head, i then smoothed the ports with the valve seats and polished as best i could! On the exhaust side I removed casting marks and the exit elbow as per the inlet and then 'smoothed' as best i could - wish i'd had more time to get it better but hey ho - in a nutshell it was more of a gasflowing than full port and polish! get it fitted as i want to know what difference it makes! flusted - great thread, wish you'd done it two years ago :D

you will have taken the cold start valve off/on when you swapped the manifolds over, it's the cylindrical thing on the end of the equalizing tube on the lower manifolld section with a fuel line running into it and usually a 'blue' connector. the thermotime has a big hexagonal brass coupling and usually a brown connector, this is located on the right hand side of the block above the clutch. basically the thermotime allows the cold start valve to slug the vehicle with extra fuel via the cold start valve for a 12 seconds if the engine temp is below 35degs, if you've flooded either connector with water then the cold start injector could be pumping fuel for longer and unnecessarily - hence lambda tries to comensate and you have poor running. another big possibility, make sure you reconnected the auxillary air valve and overrun cut off valves and servo pipes back together properly - these are the two valves near the air box, one is to the back of the airbox and is a grey 50mm diameter plastic thing with a biggish pipes coming out of it from air box to valve to plastic elbow for throttle body, the other is fixed to the left above the air box and from memory has a vacuum pipe and connector. it's possible when lifting the throttle body out the way these got disconnected. again as the engine warms these valves begin to function

reaper1_3 given you got running problems this might not help, but the injectors pull out a lot easier when the engine (manifold) is warm as it eases the fat rubber o' rings a bit! in relation to your running problem, i didnt bother adjusting the O2 on my old 16v when I swapped manifolds. considering the problem starts after 2-3 mins suggest the problem's with a malsignal being sent to the metering flap causing either leaning/ richening as the engine warms up. i don't know the 2l16v engine as well as the 1.8 but you could have shorted a sender when cleaning the bay up, i'd get the garage to test the lambda, cold start and thermotime senders - if you know which these are then try running the car with them disconnected and see if the problem starts after 2-3 mins. there is a way to adust the co2 heath robinson style, but you need the car idling when fully warm to do it!

Thanks for guidance all, i checked the relays were seated okay last week, but am going to get a new 109 and 167 relays for certainty. Cheers fla i'll give the existing relays a check/ clean too. I'll be changing the fuel pump at the weekend provided i can find a bosch centre over here, from threads on here it doesn't seem complcated!

ok thanks, i'll get the fuel pump changed to elminate that possible fault and see if it still occurs...

Aye thanks, i'll check the strap. Car runs fine for a week/ few hundred miles and then just dies, think a strap might cause more frequent failure than that. I did a search and couldn't find anything specific, will keep trying with different terms! Edit - thanks drmat, have read the crank sensors are £150+ish - happy days :(

Hi all, it's been a year since since I was here! Sold my 16v last November and got myself an Mreg blackberry metallic VR6, completely standard except for an oil cooler I fitted in December (116degs to 98!!) Anyway, I've done a search and not found my exact problem! Basically the engine simply cuts out, no spluttering, no warning, no relays clicking, no alarms or anything just revs die and cuts out, it's happened four times, once at 80 on the motorway - naturally i'm a little concerned It then takes a few minutes to restart, cranks fine, and usually restarts after locking and opening again. It starts and idles fine normally, the ISV has been cleaned, the fuel pump is whining (not massively) but fuel pressure is fine, VW specialist over here says no fault codes on VAGCOM and i've checked relay 109 for corrosion - all seems well. I don't know my way round the VR6, and am not really in a position to mess as I've just relocated to Belfast and don't have a garage yet! It's a long shot, but any help appreciated. Even if it's pointers for the mechanic, I've read speed sensor, crank position sender, and VW immobiliser are possibles. Thanks in advance :D

haha nothing like resurecting a thread!! I'm moving to Belfast in December, and am trying to find an insurer for a late vr, will try the numbers above but if any of you guys know of better companies let me know... cheers :)

intermediate shaft drives the oil pump on valvers - dunno about others?

engine type dude ??

am guessing.... but an intermittent throttle switch fault was contradicting what the ISV and WUR should have been doing :)

Dunno about mixing/ matching of cams/ displacement. The 9a inlet is 8.9, the kr inlet is 9.6 and the 9a/kr exhaust is 10.1 with similar durations from memory!

If you have kr and 9a cams, and your using the complete 9a engine then i'd suggest keeping your existing 9a exhaust cam, but instead of putting the kr inlet cam as the inlet on the 9a head, modify the kr exhaust cam as an inlet on the 9a, this will give even better performance than the kr inlet cam + it allows you to sell your kr cam to someone with 9a. i have used the 9a zorst cam as an inlet on my kr and it makes noticeable difference, PM me with a proper email and i'll send you the guide.

if it's the cold start valve your looking for it's got a similar blue connector on an angle from a cylindrical valve, and a connector for a fuel line, together with a connecting plate for fixing to the inlet manifold.

was a tad confused :wink:

Is it right thing for what?! Bit confused here