aide

I thought it was 45mph ish?

air gets heavier when its dark, could be that :lol:

you can check the connection mentioned above is tight before you pull it out, but if you can get sufficient purchase on just the injector then that is best way, as kev says it's easier when warm

Injectors pull out with some effort, so don't be afraid to pull them pretty hard - you can get a tool for helping with this Sounds to me that it's more likely to be screw connection between pipe and injector tho, pull suspect injector out and crank engine with (spark plugs out so it doesn't fire), and see if its leaking.

Have thought about this myself - not a standard TB from other vehicle but modding the existing TB and manifold. Basically get two 16v TB's, chop them in half, and do a humpty dumty with the two big openings, then mod manifold to suit. IMO the actual opening on the manifold is the restrictive bit

ahhhh, makes sense with explanation cheers

so idea is fronts lock, weight 'jolts' forward spring tensions brake pressure compensates to rears?

oh right! do you know what the angle is?

burgundy metallic/ deep red metallic valver on marsh barton, Exeter half hour ago.

according to haynes :roll: ... you need to have the spring tensioned with specialist tool by your stealer :?:

bit late for these but cheers to scruffydubbers for the polished head and drivers side door, flusted for the grille, cheesey for the vsam and cam, chrisp for the four branch and harry for the fender grille top notch ta :D

what's that cockney doing with your wiper :?:

looks like it should be sat on it's ass in the jungle eating shootes and leaves.

gutting, think the worst thing is seeing the wire carnage they leave behind...

The valve has an adjustable screw down pressure plate, which when vacume in manifold reaches required level (coasting, or overun) the pressure plate is forced open introducing additional air :shock: When open the valve introduces 'agitated' air which ecotek state burns better, whilst this is true to a degree, when considering the miniscule levels of air introduced it is actually bollocks - so yeh, it basically leans you out, makes a farting noise at traffic lights, intoduces a weakness in the brake servo system and cost £45 for the benefit - Whhooooppppeeee :D

Get a pressure test done on your fuel supply to metering head, like you suspect maybe you have sucked crap into the filter.

sorry - but what i meant was there is other things which can leak in addition to the head gasket.... NOT it isn't your head gasket

The outlet from water jacket to radiator is that side of engine - may be that attachment/ pipework... try cleaning the engine up then having a look, as there's other sensors on that side ...... not even considering head gasket at this stage :D

yeh, but the felt is attached to the rubber underneath :D is this really a thread topic :?

black (dunno model) M32 northbound out of Bristol this morning at 9ish - looking clean and green vr parked up at RAF base in south wales..

mate if it's slow to turn over i'd defo try a different battery first, cold driving saps power with the lights and heater fans on, and if your alternator ain't top drawer then your not effectively charging. trickle charge your battery overnight, and then see how it starts before you start messing with sensors

:shock: WOW - hats off people :shock: is your missus called penelope :D

continuing the pervy nature of this thread...... they must mean the hairy furry thing around the lip :D

Eyeballs freezing? Common problem... ;) :D what exactly is the problem, does the cranking sound weak, or will it just not fire, and is it only when cold :?: assuming its a 1.8 they get harder as they get older unless kept in top nick.... firstly would endorse a service as Mat says, then invest in a quality calcium battery then get onto.. Check/ replace your cold start valve (blue thing) on end of common rail on inlet manifold, also check the thermotime switch which is the brown connector/ brass nut sensor beneath the water jacket outlet. theory is the thermotime allows the cold start valve to supply fuel for 8seconds when the engine temp is below 95 degs - like an automatic choke it could be other things like poor injectors, or a dying fuel pump really is difficult to diagnose effectively without full deatils :wink:

if it's overunning your leaking air (&fuel) when throttle is off, i'm not familiar with the KE jetronic but i'd be checking for leaks round your manifold and pipework for starters